Impeller challenged...?

Bottomsupscott

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Apr 17, 2021
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No, not good... meanwhile I will install impeller kit and install the drive. I have water flow through to the thermostat. So I deduced the the last guy who installed the impeller didn't have the shaft pointing downward thus imploding on itself causing the over heat condition....I will keep you posted.
 

Lou C

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That way of installing the impeller is not really necessary, because you can use a sticky marine grease like Evinrude triple guard to hold the o ring in the impeller housing slot and it will not move out of place when you have to twist the housing to get the impeller on. I like to lube up the new impeller with a mix of water and Dawn dish soap. I've been doing them this way for 15 years with no problems.
If that housing distorted and the metal cage shifted, its likely that you did not have enough water flow to the impeller. If on land your muffs may not be sealing well enough, or the water tube gaskets inside the drive may be bleeding off water pressure and starving the impeller. Way to check:
before you install new impeller, hook up muffs. The impeller mount has 2 openings, one is the inlet, one is the outlet. Right side is the water inlet, left side is the outlet which sends water through the transom. So....
Hold the muffs tight to the lower unit have someone turn on the water, water should spurt out of the right hand side, if not, you either have bad water tube gaskets (requires splitting the upper and lower to replace) or a blockage in the water intake area. If OK then good. Now, you want to back flush your hose from the stat housing to the transom mount. Have your helper stick a garden hose in that hose after disconnecting it at the stat housing and turn on the water. Water should spurt out the left side. If not, then there could be a blockage in the P/S cooler which is in line with the hose from the stat housing to the transom mount.


After I install a Cobra impeller I always run it on the water hose with the cover off, so I can see if the bleed hole is open and spraying water and and to make sure there are no leaks around the impeller housing.
As long as your raw water flow is good, no obstructions, these impellers last easily 3-4 seasons. Even then when I take them out they are hardly worn.
BTW I always use OE for the impellers, and driveshaft bellows. Do not use off brand aftermarket if you can't get OE I would use Sierra, but you can't mix n match, ie use a Sierra housing with a Sierra impeller not OMC + Sierra because they may not work well together.

I found over the years I've had this boat I have found that the OMC Cobra cooling system design is pretty trouble free, the only issues I have had was due to my salt water use where I had to replace manifolds more often and I had barnacles growing in the lower unit water intakes, I wound up splitting the drive taking out the screen and leaving it out for good. This way I can rod out the water intake holes with the boat on the mooring.

If you had no oil in your upper gear housing, remove the 4 bolts holding the top cap on and take a look at those poor upper gears. My guess is you will be buying a remanufactured one. The drive when full takes approx 2 qts of gear oil.
 

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Bottomsupscott

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Very helpful Lou C., I will test water flow and back flush tomorrow. ..I remain hopeful in that this has not been run without the gear lube. This was drained just prior to my pulling the drive. I now reflect that I thought it was necessary prior to removing the drive for some reason. So, I don't think any damage is in order...
More later! Thanks.
 

Bottomsupscott

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Update, so I now have complete water flow to and from the thermostat...however, when reinserting the out drive I noticed the shift cable at point of coupling (while in forward gear position) would not even wiggle. It was completely frozen in its place where it interfaces with mating of drive and transom. Just before bolting it all together, I even went to the control box and shifted back and forth from forward to neutral to reverse and back and no movement at all in its position at the rear!?! That seemed odd. I however continued in mounting the drive, attached the rams yet to no avail as now my prop spins about 2 inches and locks to starboard and about 2 inches to port and locks also...???
Does anyone know if a new lower shift cable will fix this lot not? It's all I can think of. I don't believe I ever tried to start it without the gear oil after all so I don't have any ideas why it is suddenly locked up like this...HELP!?!
 

hugh g

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 21, 2002
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225
Update, so I now have complete water flow to and from the thermostat...however, when reinserting the out drive I noticed the shift cable at point of coupling (while in forward gear position) would not even wiggle. It was completely frozen in its place where it interfaces with mating of drive and transom. Just before bolting it all together, I even went to the control box and shifted back and forth from forward to neutral to reverse and back and no movement at all in its position at the rear!?! That seemed odd. I however continued in mounting the drive, attached the rams yet to no avail as now my prop spins about 2 inches and locks to starboard and about 2 inches to port and locks also...???
Does anyone know if a new lower shift cable will fix this lot not? It's all I can think of. I don't believe I ever tried to start it without the gear oil after all so I don't have any ideas why it is suddenly locked up like this...HELP!?!
You need to pull the drive & go thru the cable adjustment procedure. You shouldn't have bolted everything back up if the cable was frozen. If the cable is original it may need replacement anyway.
 

Lou C

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The other thing that can cause that is water deposits building up around the shift cable bellcrank in the pivot housing. This happens because the gasket may not seal 100% in that area. So first try cleaning any dried up crud there, lube the bellcrank with shaft with motor oil and get it moving freely. I usually pack that area with Evinrude triple guard grease to keep out water. You may still need a new shift cable but try that first. With the drive off the remote shifter handle should move very easily. The actual acceptable cable drag with both ends disconnected is less than 2.5 lbs.
When we first bought this boat we had a similar problem, it works shift into and out of fwd fine but not out of reverse. Had to shut off the engine to make it shift. Took it to a good local mechanic with OMC training and they found crudded up deposits behind the bellcrank. They didn’t even have to replace the shift cable. After that it shifted fine.
One thing I alway do when installing the drive:
Throughly clean the sealing surfaces of the drive & pivot housing
Coat them with OMC gasket sealer
Coat both sides of the gasket with the same
Make sure the lower drain plug on the starboard side of the pivot housing has an intact o ring ( if this leaks it can let water in). When I winterize I pull all 3 of those plugs and make sure the o rings are still there and I put the gasket sealer on the threads. I have not seen evidence of water in that area for many years (water would turn the dark blue grease a lighter color). This and storing the boat with the drive down will make the cable last a really long time.
You should pick up a factory shop manual if you don’t have one and the special tools for the bellcrank and shift cable.
 
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Bottomsupscott

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The other thing that can cause that is water deposits building up around the shift cable bellcrank in the pivot housing. This happens because the gasket may not seal 100% in that area. So first try cleaning any dried up crud there, lube the bellcrank with shaft with motor oil and get it moving freely. I usually pack that area with Evinrude triple guard grease to keep out water. You may still need a new shift cable but try that first. With the drive off the remote shifter handle should move very easily. The actual acceptable cable drag with both ends disconnected is less than 2.5 lbs.
Gottcha' Hugh, I'll go do that right now. Thank you...
 

Lou C

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try to extend the shift cable guide all the way out and clean out all the crud that is behind it and the bellcrank. This is after sitting on a salt water mooring for 6 months each year. What I described above will get it working well and keep it working well. If you look really closely you can see the blue grease in that area.
 

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Bottomsupscott

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Gottcha' Hugh, I'll go do that right now. Thank you...
Ok, got to go get a new Stern drive gasket and some CLR after getting in there. The shift shaft assembly came out ok. I will clean up and replace bell crank O ring. The little 5/16 end nut was missing so I'll find a replacement. Meanwhile, the inner core wire moves freely so that seems like good news.
I'll report on how it all comes back together...
 

Bottomsupscott

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So I got some CLR and cleaned up the whole area. I just now am replacing the o ring on the bell crank and will reassemble... I'll report back in a short while!
 

Bottomsupscott

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Pulled drive. Reset transom shift assembly. Cable slides freely up and into engine assembly. But can't reinstall drive until I find upper shift cable attachment-to-shift-bracket plastic anchor sleeve that goes over upper cable so that it holds cable while remote moves bracket/cable in and out of fwd and reverse...cheap plastic retaining sleeve! Why do they make **** so cheeply?
 

Bottomsupscott

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Lou C

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The final adjustment should be done with the drive off using the OMC alignment tools, yep. First though you really should check the shift rod height in the lower unit. Next, the tool that holds the bellcrank at the 90* angle to the pivot housing goes on first then you use the shift cable tool to set the adjustment up top. And don't forget you sometimes also have to adjust the remote control cable (slotted mount on the engine shifter bell crank) to ensure equal stroke in both FWD and REV
 

hugh g

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Yep, shift rod height is critical. The measurement is 7 13/64 with the drive in neutral. OMC offered a tool to get the measurement exact but they're hard to find at least when I looked a few years back. Possibly ebay.
 

Lou C

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If you are careful you can measure that with a ruler and a small T square. I do have all the tools though.
One other thing I did, was mark on the cable where it goes into the jacket, where neutral is with a sharpie. Then have someone spin the prop (engine off KEYS OUT) while I shift it into FWD and REV. Then make a mark on the cable for FWD and REV. Now measure the distance of the FWD and REV mark from neutral. Should be about equal. Lastly, while shifting, with your helper have them spin prop and make sure it locks in for FWD & REV. You want equal throw and full engagment of the clutch dogs in each position. That will give you a proper shifting and long lasting Cobra. When you take the time to set them up right they are excellent drives, IMHO.
 

Bottomsupscott

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Ok Guys, thank you...I think you have given me the info I needed! I will try, try, again. I will report back...meanwhile, thank you and I sincerely appreciate the time and consideration throughout all of this. I mean it.
Scott
 

Bottomsupscott

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Update: A few posts ago I was surprised to find my prop locking in either direction...anyway, In this heat I became somewhat confused in all the info regarding adjustments at the engine bracket/shifter etc.

Well, I'm not sure how it came to be but now the prop spins freely, the shift bracket and cables look correct and centered...but the remote control is definitely in full reverse position. So now I am in a quandary? While getting beat up under all of this I was sort of thinking maybe the Stern drive was shot after all. But now it is in neutral, so that is a good sign. But now Iam stuck again. Don't know how to go forward...again.
 

hugh g

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Update: A few posts ago I was surprised to find my prop locking in either direction...anyway, In this heat I became somewhat confused in all the info regarding adjustments at the engine bracket/shifter etc.

Well, I'm not sure how it came to be but now the prop spins freely, the shift bracket and cables look correct and centered...but the remote control is definitely in full reverse position. So now I am in a quandary? While getting beat up under all of this I was sort of thinking maybe the Stern drive was shot after all. But now it is in neutral, so that is a good sign. But now Iam stuck again. Don't know how to go forward...again.
Google Stuart Hastings.org. On his site you will find the shift cable adjustment procedures for your Cobra. It's quite involved & sometimes confusing so it's a good idea to print it. If I were you I'd order the shift cable adjustment tool. ebay has them for about $20.00 & it's well worth it.

Idk if there is a sticky on this site for that procedure but there's a ton of threads on the subject. The last thing ypu want to do is run your boat until the cable is adjusted properly. Boneyards are full of cobras with grenaded gear sets due to shift cables not adjusted properly.
 

Bottomsupscott

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No I won't run it until I get it set up correctly Hugh. And yes I got all that info from the Hastings site....
Thank you again!
 
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