Re: Im being cheated! Help!!
Did it have a 140 cover on it? Before 1978, the 85hps are slightly smaller displacement (94 cubic inches) than the 115s and 135/140s (100 cubic inches). The porting is different, and the 135/140s have a tuned-exhaust with a "bubble-back" rather than flat exhaust plate. In between the cylinders in the back of the motor - below the powerpack is there a flat plate, or a metal bubble. If you have the bubble, probably a 135/140 someone probably put a 135/140 powerhead on a 85hp midsection (identical except for the ID tag).<br /><br />You can also check the freeze plug on the top of the port bank of cylinders - if original, usually has the model number & serial number stamped into it.<br /><br />If you have written proof that the motor was advertised as 140, I think you have him legally. Of course, getting anything out of him is a different story. Small-claims court would be the best bet, surprisingly easy to do, and costs about $20. I had to do it once to get a $1K escrow back from a mortgage company. You'd also be surprised how fast these knuckleheads change their tune when they get that official summons from the court. <br /><br />Assuming the 85s any good (what else did the idiot lie about), they're an OK motor. Much less stressed than the 135/140s & less likely to burn out if run hard when slightly out of tune. Stout midrange power - if I had a real heavy boat like a 20' cabin cruiser, I'd prefer the 85. On the other hand, run them on the same test prop (or boat) and you'll know right away which one has the big top end... I steer away from the 135/140s unless on a light, fast boat. I think the 115 is generally the best (pre-1986) V4.
