Ignition switch

HT1

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I have a late seventies johnson command center, i believe the switch is bad. It is going to a 1984 evinrude 60 hp (e60elcre) the currrent wiring is as follows:
1 purple & 1 purple/white going to the acc & choke, black/yellow going to the m , red going to the battery, 2 black going to raised m lug, white going to the neutral safety switch switc, my question is how to wire a universal ignition switch.
 

Joe Reeves

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The "M" terminals as you've described them should be reversed.... black/yellow (kill circuit) "always goes to the raised "M" terminal..... regular "M" terminal is ground.

Universal ignition switch?? What are the terminals marked?
 

Joe Reeves

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You state the universal switch has the terminals.......Raised M, A, M, C, S, I
This stands for...... Magneto -- Accessory -- Magneto -- Choke -- Solenoid -- Ignition

Does it not have a "B" terminal (Battery) ?.... OR does the paperwork you received with it show the battery (12v) being connected to the "I" terminal?

Is this a switch whereas the key can be pushed in to engage the "C" Choke terminal?
 

HT1

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It has a magneto, i ignition, c choke push in to choke, s solenoid, a accessory, m ground, b battery
 

F_R

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Red = Battery
Purple = Ignition on
Black + yellow = Raised M
Black = other M
White = Start
You will have to move the wire from the old choke switch to the C terminal if you want to use the push to choke function.
 

Joe Reeves

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(1 - It has a magneto, 2 -i ignition, 3 - c choke push in to choke, 4 - s solenoid, 5- a accessory, 6 - m ground, 7 - b battery)

You're indicating (above) that the universal ignition switch has seven (7) terminals. I've never seen one with 7 terminals. however......

"M" (Raised.) === Black/Yellow (Kill Circuit)
"M" (Regular.). == Black (Ground) 2
"A" (Accessory) = Purple (Anything you want 12v going to when key is ON)
"C" (Choke...)... = Purple/White (Operates electric choke when key is pressed in)
"S" (Solenoid...) = White (Engages starter solenoid with key in START position)
"B" (Battery.....) = Red (Voltage 12 source)

If a "I" terminal is present, it is not to be used.It would function the same as the "A" terminal
 

HT1

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I put the new neutral safety switch in today wired up the new switch and still can't get the engine to start or the solenoid to click.
 

HT1

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I just ordered the right switch today from marine engine today so will see when it gets here
 

HT1

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Well i put the new ignition switch and neutral safety switch in and wired up like it is supposed to be. I ohmed out all the wires and they checked out good. When i turn the key to start i have no voltage at all. If you have any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated .
 

Joe Reeves

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I read your PM.... The powerpack and stator have nothing to do with the function of the ignition switch excepting the kill circuit (connection between the two "M" terminals) of the powerpack depending on the setting of the ignition switch.

To start with... make sure that the small RED wires at the starter solenoid are attached to the same large solenoid terminal that the RED positive battery cable is attached to. Is it? <-- Need an answer.

I am under the impression that your problem is that although you're positive that you have the ignition switch wired properly, it WILL NOT engage the starter solenoid or crank the engine over which is of course needed in order to start and have the engine running. If this is not the case and the problem is of a different nature.... explain fully in detail with nothing lacking, NOT in generalities such as "It's doing the same thing" or something like " the thing isn't working right"... some boaters do that unintentionally of course BUT unless we're standing right there, it means nothing to us.

Now.... The short 20 ampere power fuse is a inline fuse located in one of the smaller RED wires leading from the starter solenoid. Is this the one you're speaking of?... If so, there should be 12v at that fuse area to the RED wire on the other end of that fuse... is 12v present there? <--- Answer needed to all questions !!

If so far so good and 12v is present... you should have 12v present at the "B" terminal of the ignition switch... Do you?

In the ignition switch ON position, there should be 12v present at the "B" terminal, the "A" terminal, and the "I" terminal if the "I:" terminal exists... BUT if the "I" terminal exists, there should be NO wire(s) attached to it. Do you have 12v present at the "B, A, & I" terminals?

If still so far, so good, Now, with the ignition switch in the START position, you should still have 12v to the "B, A, & I" terminals... BUT... you should now have 12v to the "S" terminal of the ignition switch to which the "White" wire should be attached that leads to the "Neutral Safety Switch" AND there should be 12v in the white wire that leads from the Neutral Safety Switch that leads to the small 3/8" nut terminal of the Starter Solenoid.

With the above information spelled out as simply as I possibly can, the 12v route and function of the ignition switch should be corrected. Let us know how it goes.
 

HT1

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I have the proper switch for the boat, ordered a new one from marine engine engin.com.
the new switch has b - battery red w yellow stripe, raise m - black w yellow stripe , m - 2 black wires wire, a - has a purple and a purple w white stripe going to a toggle switch used for choke, for choke, s - white wire going to neutral safety switch. When i test the switch for voltage i get 12v at the b & a terminals, when i turn the key to start i have no voltage at the s terminal. It has new neutral safety switch which ohms out good.

the small red wires are connected to the large starter solenoid and have 12v. I have checked, cleaned every ground and connection i can find and will still not turn over.
 

Joe Reeves

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Most of what you say in your answers are okay and normal.
********************
You state: "When i test the switch for voltage i get 12v at the b & a terminals, when i turn the key to start i have no voltage at the s terminal"......

I assume when you test for voltage, the key is in the ON position?.... You should also have 12v at the "B" terminal in the OFF position... Do you?
********************
If you have 12v at the "B" terminal in the key OFF position and the ON position... you should have 12v at the "S" terminal when the key is in the START position.... and you should hear the starter solenoid click at a minimum.
 

HT1

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I just checked i have 12 v when the key is off and the run position but when i check with the key in the start position i only get .01v
 

Joe Reeves

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You have a problem with either the battery OR the wiring between the battery and the "B" terminal/
 
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