Identifying a 75hp 2stroke (i think) 2005 with missing model number (and it won't start )

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Sep 1, 2023
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Hi there, just bought this outboard, that ran great when I was with the seller, and now won't start now that I'm home.

The model/serial tag on the transom is damaged (it still displays part of the serial number but not any part of the model number.) (I did find the serial number sticker on the top of engine intact and readable)

Can anyone help me identify this engine? I read in another thread that the model of the carbs or cdi can help with identifying, so I took a few pics.

Here is what I do know:
75hp 2 stroke 2005 (owner claims it was a 2005)
power tilt
electric ignition
remote control box console
oil injection
3 cylinders

Any insight much appreciated! Thank you

IMG_20230901_105948_885.jpgIMG_20230901_105905_834.jpgIMG_20230901_105814_525.jpgIMG_20230901_105751_749.jpgIMG_20230831_135224.jpgIMG_20230831_130202_650.jpgIMG_20230831_130122_081.jpgIMG_20230831_130107_505.jpgIMG_20230831_130052_704.jpg
 
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Sep 1, 2023
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If it helps, the guy who sold it to me said the only record he had of the model, is 75TLRY which would make it a year 2000. And that's assuming he wrote it down correctly.
 

QBhoy

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Mar 10, 2016
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Hi. That’s familiar with the very late and last of them, models that we get here in the uk. They are very powerful things usually. Basically the same engine as the 90 that was sold at the same time. There are those who reckon that the models like this from the 2000’s…especially the very latter produced..the 75 and 90 are not only the same basic engine (as they previously were for years before) but that they are actually identical to each other and literally only the badging hp is the only thing that sets them apart. Who knows !
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
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38,082
Perhaps need to learn how to start it.----Call the seller and have it explained in some detail.
 

QBhoy

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There is a trick to starting these things. But usually they start really well. Presumably you’re not new to this or are you ?
There is a choke on the remotes. Usually anyway, presuming it’s a 703 remote or similar. Push the key in to choke it, when turning the key to crank. Give her some throttle in neutral with the fast idle lever arm or whichever way your remote does so. She’ll start soon enough. All this, obviously after connecting the fuel line and squeezing the primer bulb. Needless to say…you’ll need the safety lanyard toggle clipped in place and make certain she isn’t in gear and interlocked from starting. Hope that helps.
 

boscoe99

Lieutenant Commander
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Aug 22, 2013
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1,997
No choke on the OP's model. Uses an automatic enrichment device known as Primestart. Pressing the key in does nothing.
 
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Sep 1, 2023
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Hi Guys, sorry for some reason I didn't get any notifications that there were more replies on here.

Good news, we diagnosed where the issue was. The curious thing is that when I went out the other day to keep testing things, there was no juice anywhere when I turned the key. Hmm, I didn't change anything overnight.
Anyway, long and short of it, figured out that the relay where the main hot wire coming in from the battery goes into is dead (or was dying).
The old screwdriver across the contacts gave me full spark on all 3 plugs.

Can you recommend the best place to get this part in Canada (or the USA is fine too)? Part number on the relay is: RELAY MS5C-311-1 12V

And is there any other part I should replace at the same time to keep things happy and purring?

Thanks a bunch


yamaha outboard relay.jpeg
 
Joined
Sep 1, 2023
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You are to be commended for helping us help you.

Engine ID is 6H0L 952329. Model 75TLRY. Distributed in Canada and Europe.

See if this works for you.


When I search on the Yamaha website by both that model number or the engine serial number, I don't get a match for anything close to year 2000 or Electrical schematic that looks like it is correct, with that relay.

However I was able to find this: https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha/6G1-81941-10-00?ref=2bd7f4c2de2dd76ffd6f533bd008100cce880166

which looks exactly like the part but doesn't have the model number from the sticker on the back.

I wonder if I can get away with just using this one... ? What do you guys think?
 

99yam40

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Sep 7, 2008
Messages
9,095
Hi Guys, sorry for some reason I didn't get any notifications that there were more replies on here.

Good news, we diagnosed where the issue was. The curious thing is that when I went out the other day to keep testing things, there was no juice anywhere when I turned the key. Hmm, I didn't change anything overnight.
Anyway, long and short of it, figured out that the relay where the main hot wire coming in from the battery goes into is dead (or was dying).
The old screwdriver across the contacts gave me full spark on all 3 plugs.

Can you recommend the best place to get this part in Canada (or the USA is fine too)? Part number on the relay is: RELAY MS5C-311-1 12V

And is there any other part I should replace at the same time to keep things happy and purring?

Thanks a bunch


View attachment 388978
I would think it would work just fine, but who am I to say.
any 12 volt start relay/ solenoid that can carry high current should work.
maybe someone put something in there that was not original, so the numbers do not match up.
 
Joined
Sep 1, 2023
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ok. we're back where we started after playing wack-a-mole with diagnosing and then just making things worse. Engine turns over strong, but no spark. Shorting the two poles on the relay only gave sparkplug spark when all the rest of the wiring harness was disconnected.
I went through and testing every individual wire for voltage.
I don't have the knowledge or max voltage tester to be able to test like the CDI troubleshooting manual suggest.
Looking like I'll need to take it to the mechanic.
Thanks for all your help guys.
 
Joined
Sep 1, 2023
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Alright, I figured I'd followup for posterity. We found an old guy, boat mechanic all his life. He helped a lot. The ignition switch was definitely dead. After replacing that ($160 CAD), we had spark, but no fuel going from fuel pump to the spark plugs. Carb issue? He said to use the "emergency enrichment" red switch on the front of carb #2. Flipped it 180deg, tried starting, then 90deg, tried starting and it fired up right away! Flipped back to normal and it fires up no problem. Also, our fuel line had a faulty valve (the one that stops air from entering at the gas tank), so our fuel line needed to be pumped a lot to bleed it (and needs replacing).
Runs like a dream now. Nice when it is a happy (inexpensive) ending.
Anyone on Vancouver Island BC needs help I'd be happy to refer the guy I worked with. (He's friends with my dad, so was happy to have a case of beer, but normally does charge for his work).
 
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