Ideas for Lund Rebuild

[Rairdog]

Ok, I purchased a Lund 1600 Fury. I striped out all the plywood and carpet. Now I'm not sure which direction to go. The foam is in pretty good shape. It has a void down the middle for drainage.

1) Do I really need to take the foam out and gluvit the inside?

2) I am considering and .125 alum. deck, riveted, etching primer and tuffcoat. Is this a good option?

3) Is it possible to relocate side console to a center console and use existing cables/controls? I would fab a new alum console. Would I have to run the cables under the floor down the middle or invest in new cables? The stringer are alum and are perpendicular to the V bottom. Big holes in stringer for cables! Future access from results of # 2

4) How do you patch existing holes in top face of gunwhale? (not real good on verbage but i'm learnin) The are a bunch of holes (1/4") in the alum for old trolling motors, anchor brackets etc....

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! I'm thinking $750 inside budget to get it fishing ready and then painting/new graphics outside in the Fall.

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Ideas for Lund Rebuild

Ok, I purchased a Lund 1600 Fury. I striped out all the plywood and carpet. Now I'm not sure which direction to go. The foam is in pretty good shape. It has a void down the middle for drainage.

1) Do I really need to take the foam out and gluvit the inside?

Is the foam wet, and does the hull leak? If no to both, then you can leave the foam.

2) I am considering and .125 alum. deck, riveted, etching primer and tuffcoat. Is this a good option?

That'll be both overly flexible and unusually heavy. Is there a reason you don't want to use plywood?

3) Is it possible to relocate side console to a center console and use existing cables/controls? I would fab a new alum console. Would I have to run the cables under the floor down the middle or invest in new cables? The stringer are alum and are perpendicular to the V bottom. Big holes in stringer for cables! Future access from results of # 2

Sure, you can move the controls. The only limit on how you install them is usually what bend radius the cables can take, so you can reuse them if they're in good shape. It's hard to change their length, though, so be careful about that. New cables don't cost a ton if you decide to go that route, though.

4) How do you patch existing holes in top face of gunwhale? (not real good on verbage but i'm learnin) The are a bunch of holes (1/4") in the alum for old trolling motors, anchor brackets etc....

You're pretty much limited to either covering them, patching them by gluing, glassing, or otherwise attaching a metal patch, or welding them shut. If you fabricate aluminum, perhaps you can tig weld?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! I'm thinking $750 inside budget to get it fishing ready and then painting/new graphics outside in the Fall.

Assuming you do all the work yourself you can make that.

Erik

 

[Rairdog]

Re: Ideas for Lund Rebuild

The foam is a little wet down the middle at the bottom of the v hull. There is a 1 foot void down the middle for drainage. Water will always be moving back an forth through there from the bilge pump to the bow. The alum. stringers are 12" o.c. perpendicular to the v hull. Casting deck, live well and rod holder are welded and riveted in. I can't get to a lot of the foam without removing welds and structural rivets.

As of now there is no wood in the boat except for the transom which is in good shape. The 1/8" (.125) alum. sheeting I was thinking of using is aprox. 55 lbs and 1/2 plywood is approx. 50 lbs for 4x8 sheets. I will loose the weight of the carpet. The only major flex would be at the seams in the alum perpendicular to the stringers. I would use 1/8x1x1 alum angle to take care of that. I also have access to 3/8"x 3' x 5' fiber glass panels for free. They probably weigh about the same as a 1/2x4x8 sheet of plywood and have great flexural strength. I might be able to get some 1/4" or 5/16" panels that would span 12".

I own a construction company and have a lot of contacts in metal and wood. Stepdad is a plastics engineer at factory with lots of freebies. I just have no boat contacts and very limited knowlege of fiberglass, epoxies etc... I'm just looking for ideas before I break down and buy the plywood. I price 1/2" MDO sign board at $60 a sheet. For the cheap route, BC is the only grade in my opinion that has a good surface, correct amount of plys, and minimal voids.

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Ideas for Lund Rebuild

Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on things, frankly.

I'd personally remove all the wet foam to get rid of the water weight, but with an aluminum boat there's not a ton of problems with having it there... it will eventually cause corrosion, but it'll take years to be a problem.

I still think you'd see more flex than you like in the deck, but it's up to you of course. I'd be interested to see how it worked out if you finished it the way you say.

I know that lake invader and other manufacturers make all aluminum boats with welded aluminum decking and they're tough as heck.

Erik