I/O (Sterndrive) Conversion to Outboards

tpenfield

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If you get into a time pinch for March 1 can you have the motors installed and work around them for finishing details? Gelcoat is an example.
No . . . my stuff needs to be done. The Admiral reminds me at least 10 times a day as she asks for help doing stuff. :rolleyes:
 

tphoyt

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Have a little faith Joe. 😂
I feel like it’s all down stream from here and you will make your deadline. 🤞
 

tpenfield

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Quick Update . . .

One of the re-power shops that I talked to at the boat show suggested that consult with a Naval Architect about the extension bracket. The Admiral thought it was a good idea. :unsure:

So . . . I have reached out to a N. A. who is local on Cape Cod and he is going to take a look at the design and provide any recommendations. I sent him my design drawings this AM. We shall see what he comes up with.

In other news . . . I keep getting nibbles on the Mercruisers, but nothing solid yet. Meanwhile, I have gotten the 10+ layers of anti-fouling paint off the outdrives. It took about 5 treatments of the paint remover. Now they are down to their nice satin black anodized finish (no paint). Looks kind of cool, vs. the typical bare metal that you would normally get.

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Also there is something that has been applied to the skegs that is a rough texture. I assume it is to prevent wear, but not sure what it is . . .definitely something that was added though . . . It sort of looks like the stuff that gets applied to the bottom area of car fenders to protect the metal. Not sure I could get it off without doing more harm than good.
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It looks like someone applied zinc chromate paint (yellow/green) and then this rougher looking stuff over it. :unsure:
 

alldodge

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When I was in the USCG we were required to put zinc chromate on any bare aluminum prior to paint, figured Merc would do the same as a bonding agent
 

Scott Danforth

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anodizing is a great primer. looks like the original drives may have driven thru the sand a bit. then someone added zinc prior to a few layers of paint that Ted has now removed.
 

Lou C

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No . . . my stuff needs to be done. The Admiral reminds me at least 10 times a day as she asks for help doing stuff. :rolleyes:
I hear that is a side effect of retirement or even semi-retirement. I have discovered it's a ratio. 60/40 "your" projects vs house projects, if you're lucky!
 

tpenfield

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On another note . . . in talking with the Mercury rep at the boat show, he said that I could have a joystick on the re-power . . . not getting into any specifics though . . .
 

Lou C

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One thing I just thought of....insurance....will insurance cover the cost of the new engines, etc? Agreed value policy? Would they cover a loss seeing as how the boat was significantly modified from its original configuration?
 

tpenfield

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One thing I just thought of....insurance....will insurance cover the cost of the new engines, etc? Agreed value policy? Would they cover a loss seeing as how the boat was significantly modified from its original configuration?
It would be making a modification to the insurance policy to update the engine type, HP, etc. and the agreed value. A survey would probably be needed to arrive at an agreed value. It probably won't be much more than the current agreed value, since the boat has lost value, and the new engines would bring it back up. It is really for the surveyor to figure out (with my input/nudge) :LOL:

So, these things I have anticipated. (y)
 

tpenfield

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Quick Update . . .

I talked with the Naval Architect yesterday. He will be reviewing the bracket design next week, mostly focusing on the structural aspects. He mentioned using some "G10" in the transom . . . I guess Coosa BW26 alone does not cut it for larger outboards.

Meanwhile, I'll be shifting my focus to the boat itself . . . still lots to do there. I got to finish removing the controls and then add the transom bracing. Finally put the in the new power and fuel line feeds.
 

Scott Danforth

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G10 requires epoxy. There are poly equivalents (solid fiberglass layers)
 

Lpgc

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Quick Update . . .

I talked with the Naval Architect yesterday. He will be reviewing the bracket design next week, mostly focusing on the structural aspects. He mentioned using some "G10" in the transom . . . I guess Coosa BW26 alone does not cut it for larger outboards.

Meanwhile, I'll be shifting my focus to the boat itself . . . still lots to do there. I got to finish removing the controls and then add the transom bracing. Finally put the in the new power and fuel line feeds.
Hope this doesn't mean you'll have to backtrack and redo any of the work you've already done..?

I didn't know what G10 was, Googled it, the thicker versions seem expensive.
 

tpenfield

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G10 requires epoxy. There are poly equivalents (solid fiberglass layers)
Yes, I noticed that it is epoxy resin. So, epoxy to laminate it as well?

What are the poly equivalents? Maybe I can look them up. :unsure:

Hope this doesn't mean you'll have to backtrack and redo any of the work you've already done..?
The N.A. said I was pretty much there with the calculations I've done. Maybe some minor re-work. I've left the transom area alone, figuring it would be an area of design/material input. We shall see. . .
 
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