Re: I.D.required.
Of course it's because you are from New Zealand!
Now---- If your 35 has the plugs coming straight out of the head toward the rear it should also have a clear water tube running from the block to the top of the head where the thermostat is.
This engine is a 35, 45, 55 series and most parts other than pistons and cranks are interchangeable.
If it is an older model, and if it is long shaft (20inch) then there will be an 5 inch extension just above the lower unit. If it is a newer model, then the midleg will be 5 inches longer.
It will use a 10 3/8 diameter X 11 1/2 pitch 3 blade aluminum prop on a splined shaft with a shear pin to locate the prop. Other pitches are available and size will be stamped on one blade of the stock props. If it is a Michigan prop, a model number will be stamped into the hub behind the white tailcone.
Inside the cowling, under where the fuel line enters, there will (or should) be an aluminum plate with the model and serial number stamped in it. The numbers you gave don't make sense to me but if it was manufactured as an export engine they may be correct. Ask over at The Chrysler Crew.
Believe it or not, parts are still available. Points and condensers are expensive at about 18 US bucks for a single set of points and the engine uses two sets under the flywheel.
My manual has the plugs cross referenced as Champion L4J or NGK B8S. These engines are fairly tolerant and your NGK B7HS may be a close enough equivalent. Fuel mix is 50 to 1 or 1 US pint oil to 6 US gallons gasoline. Use an outboard oil rated TCW-3. That is important. Regular automotive oil is harmful to these engines.
If the plugs exit the head at almost a 90 degree angle, it is the other series 35 with common parts with the 20 and 25. Depending on model, they either used a 10 3/8 prop or a 9 inch diameter prop.
