I am replacing the transom on a 14' Aluminum Sea Nymph

RonJon24

Seaman
Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
66
Hello everyone. I have gotten some great advice on here before on previous questions, thank you to all.

I bought my first boat this past april, a 14' aluminum sea nymph and I am still fixing it up. My latest project is to replace a working, but soft wood transom. During the process, I am planning to raise the transom to put my engine at the right height in the water. I ripped the old out yesterday, and discovered a fair amount of damage to the aluminum, but I don't think it is so much it will need major repair. I have been reading several threads here about the subject, but I am still unclear on the route I want to take. I will ask a few questions and post plenty of pics.

1. Would an 1.5 aluminum square tube transom stacked on top of each other be better than wood? basically cover the same area the wood would cover but use 1.5 aluminum tubing instead.

2. I can't seem to find any 3/4 plywood except the regular pine, birch, or oak. Where do I get the 3/4 inch non-treated exterior plywood or marine plywood? They do not seem to have it at my local loses or home depot.

3. The boat doesn't leak a drop, should I use the seem sealer anywhere? I may strip and repaint the boat later sometime.

4. What is the best epoxy to coat the wood before mounting it back on? Do I need to coat the aluminum with anything, and how thick, how to apply, etc? Once I put epoxy on the wood, just drill through it with all mountings, and use stainless bolts covered with 5200... do I need to re-epoxy the drill holes and bolts?

5. How do I need to clean and prepare the raw aluminum to remove all the damage and corrosion, I do not understand the jb weld process to fill unwanted holes and damage, how do I apply and keep it smooth on both sides of the hole?

6. The inside had a 52"x10" tall piece of wood 1.5 inches thick, the outside had a half inch sheet of plywood that ran all the way to the bottom of the boat, is this outside piece necessary? What all needs support? is the one beam cross the top of the transom enough. The boat is rated for a 25 horse and I have a 15 yamaha on it now.

7. Exactly where should the foot of the engine fall on the bottom of the boat? I know the transom will have to rise above the aluminum on the back of the boat, is this a problem?

I will post a couple times to post all the pics. Here is pics before the repair.


before removal .JPGtransom-outside-two.jpgprop.jpgtransom_right_tiny_tach.jpgtransom-outside-one.jpg
 

RonJon24

Seaman
Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
66
Re: I am replacing the transom on a 14' Aluminum Sea Nymph

More pics since I removed the old transom. These show the damage.

before removal .JPGdamage 1.JPGdamage 3.jpgdamage two.jpgdamage four.jpg
 
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
21
Re: I am replacing the transom on a 14' Aluminum Sea Nymph

4. What is the best epoxy to coat the wood before mounting it back on? Do I need to coat the aluminum with anything, and how thick, how to apply, etc? Once I put epoxy on the wood, just drill through it with all mountings, and use stainless bolts covered with 5200... do I need to re-epoxy the drill holes and bolts?

5. How do I need to clean and prepare the raw aluminum to remove all the damage and corrosion, I do not understand the jb weld process to fill unwanted holes and damage, how do I apply and keep it smooth on both sides of the hole?

4. I wouldn't bother to use epoxy on this boat. Stuff ain't cheap & lifting off a 15 HP engine and slapping on some new wood isn't that big of a deal. I'd just use porch & floor or spar varnish.

5. Buy a wire cup. hit all the rust/divets area. Mix some JB weld and apply it to the divets. You can sand it after you're done. After you have JB welded. Hit all the aluminum & jbweld with self etching primer.
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: I am replacing the transom on a 14' Aluminum Sea Nymph

1. Would an 1.5 aluminum square tube transom stacked on top of each other be better than wood? basically cover the same area the wood would cover but use 1.5 aluminum tubing instead.

2. I can't seem to find any 3/4 plywood except the regular pine, birch, or oak. Where do I get the 3/4 inch non-treated exterior plywood or marine plywood? They do not seem to have it at my local loses or home depot.

3. The boat doesn't leak a drop, should I use the seem sealer anywhere? I may strip and repaint the boat later sometime.

4. What is the best epoxy to coat the wood before mounting it back on? Do I need to coat the aluminum with anything, and how thick, how to apply, etc? Once I put epoxy on the wood, just drill through it with all mountings, and use stainless bolts covered with 5200... do I need to re-epoxy the drill holes and bolts?

5. How do I need to clean and prepare the raw aluminum to remove all the damage and corrosion, I do not understand the jb weld process to fill unwanted holes and damage, how do I apply and keep it smooth on both sides of the hole?

6. The inside had a 52"x10" tall piece of wood 1.5 inches thick, the outside had a half inch sheet of plywood that ran all the way to the bottom of the boat, is this outside piece necessary? What all needs support? is the one beam cross the top of the transom enough. The boat is rated for a 25 horse and I have a 15 yamaha on it now.

7. Exactly where should the foot of the engine fall on the bottom of the boat? I know the transom will have to rise above the aluminum on the back of the boat, is this a problem?

1. 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood laminated together (glued) will be much stronger than stacked aluminum tube.

2. The Birch and Oak plywood are probably not exterior grade, that's cabinet material. I'm sure some of the pine or fir plywood they have is exterior grade. All plywood sheets have a stamp on them that tell you what it is, The capital letters A,B,C, and D are the finish the face sides have on them with A being the smoothest without any knots. A stamp with ABX will mean one side is A finsh and the side is B finish and the X stands for exterior. You'll want to avoid the CDX if possible because it'll have large voids in between the plies.

3. If your boat doesn't leak save your money on the Gluvit, you can always apply it later if you start having problems.

4. For the small amount of wood you're going to be sealing you can just buy a quart of exterior grade Spar urethane. Use 4 coats on all sides and edges.

5. A kinked wire cup brush in a drill or angle grinder will clean up your aluminum quickly. The JB weld is applied with a putty knife or bondo spreader held at about a 60 degree angle to the metal, you want to fill the pitting but leave as little as possible on the aluminum that isn't pitted... skim it. If you want to fill an unwanted hole in the aluminum transom skim it with JB after the transom wood is installed.

6. The outside piece of plywood saves wear and tear on your transom aluminum from the motor screw clamps, you should replace that wood and seal it with 4 coats of spar just like the other transom wood.

7. The cavitation plate on your motor should be even with the bottom of your boat. Make your transom wood taller than the original piece to make up the difference you need, if your motor needs to be 3" higher to make the cavitation plate even with the bottom of the boat... make your transom wood 3" taller, it won't hurt a thing.

I notice you have rust at the corroded parts of your transom, this comes from using regular steel instead of stainless steel hardware. Make sure you use all stainless hardware.
 

RonJon24

Seaman
Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
66
Re: I am replacing the transom on a 14' Aluminum Sea Nymph

Thanks JigNgrub... One more question, should I seal the aluminum before putting the wood back on either side? What and how?
 

RonJon24

Seaman
Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
66
Re: I am replacing the transom on a 14' Aluminum Sea Nymph

having a hard time getting all the rust and corrosion out of the aluminum... I've used a cup brush in a drill, sander, and paint stripper. any ideas?

photo copy.jpg
 
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