I’m all out of ideas I’ve come to you for help

ScottWyler

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Jul 11, 2016
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32
Good evening I have a 1993 Evinrude 200 ocean pro when I bought the boat the motor ran fine. I winterized it and come the spring time I have no spark on all six cylinders. I had a mechanic diagnose the problem and fix it, it turned out to be a bad timer base. I then used the boat two times before it failed me again... One day while driving the boat the RPM went crazy I heard some loud clunking noises and it shut down I had to get towed back to the marina . I did a compression test when I got back and I have great compression but no spark in all six cylinders again.. mechanic came down and told me that I spun the hub on the fly wheel so I purchased a preowned Fly wheel from an outboard service place... after we installed the fly wheel tried to start it and again no spark on all six cylinders so then I bought a power pack which was the culprit. So with the new preowned fly wheel and the power pack we were in business. I have the motor running at idle at the marina and it’s fine then I go to take it for test drive and what do you know it shut down on me and would not start back up the weird thing is it wanted to turn off when I was in gear but when I put it back in neutral it stayed alive but after a while it just turned off and now it won’t start back up and again no spark on all six cylinders I had to get towed back again. I have put over $2000 in parts and labor into this motor what do I do and what is the problem any help is much appreciated thank you for taking your time and reading this
 
Last edited:

boobie

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 5, 2009
Messages
20,826
If you are going to work on this yourself, get an OMC factory service manual. Or you can try cdielectronics.com.
 

ScottWyler

Seaman Apprentice
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Jul 11, 2016
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32
I have the manual but I don’t know where to begin now. What do you think this could be?
 

Bosunsmate

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6,129
Dont go to that mechanic again. A spun flywheel is normally from someone not doing the right torque up after something like the timer base was replaced. Id get a cheap $10 digital ohmn meter and run resistance testing on the stator. Id also check there are no cracks in the wiring that go up to the flywheel.
Sometimes when the wiring is old in them they pull apart when you push the throttle. Sometimes they have worn spots and short to ground.
It sounds like an alright motor due to the compression test so worth working it out but not worth paying someone to help who i think sounds not up to the job
 

Bosunsmate

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Apr 7, 2012
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6,129
Id also do a drop test to check all cylinders are working evenly (and it helps identify where the problem (s) is/are ) and id also check your sparkplug colours as that can say a lot about whats wrong with it.
And right now im off on holiday for two days so good luck.
 

ScottWyler

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 11, 2016
Messages
32
Dont go to that mechanic again. A spun flywheel is normally from someone not doing the right torque up after something like the timer base was replaced. Id get a cheap $10 digital ohmn meter and run resistance testing on the stator. Id also check there are no cracks in the wiring that go up to the flywheel.
Sometimes when the wiring is old in them they pull apart when you push the throttle. Sometimes they have worn spots and short to ground.
It sounds like an alright motor due to the compression test so worth working it out but not worth paying someone to help who i think sounds not up to the job

i hear ya, where would these wires be coming from? going to the flywheel from where exactly? what color are these wires?
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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13,262
Your "mechanic" is a poor excuse for a "parts replacer" and Red Foreman would have a field day with him! If it were me, I'd have that guy drug into Small Claims court!

At the present time, you've spun that flywheel twice, shearing the flywheel key. The tapers of the flywheel and also the crankshaft need resurfacing, cleaning up. Remove the timer base in order to do this properly with whatever it takes... Wet/Dry Black 400 & 600 sandpaper for sure, using mineral spirits to make the sandpapers life last.

Also install a new flywheel key... NOT... some woodruff key you found in some hardware store. The flywheel key must be installed in a vertical position with the engine... that is to have the straight portion of the key aligned straight up and down, NOT aligned with the crankshaft taper.

With both tapers in good condition, and the flywheel key installed properly, the flywheel nut must absolutely be torqued to factory specifications, otherwise you will most certainly shear another flywheel key with the damage to the tapers repeated. In the past, the specified torque was 145 foot pounds... what it is now, I haven't a clue... look it up in your manual.

For test purposes, and for test purposes only (Engine NOT running!)... it is not necessary to torque the flywheel nut. Just snug it tight to keep it in place while cranking.

Now... When you have the engine's cosmetic conditions corrected, and have compression, and hopefully also spark on all 6 cylinders that will jump a 7/16" air gap so you can at least get a running start so to speak.... What problem(s) are you having?
CS-FW_Key_Align.jpg
 

Bosunsmate

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i hear ya, where would these wires be coming from? going to the flywheel from where exactly? what color are these wires?

Coming from your powerpack, rectifier, going to your stator, timing base.
You need to do what Joe said.
Post photos if stuck. Its normally one main wiring harness going up and under the flywheel
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,902
You "lap" the flywheel to crankshaft with valve lapping compound. Remove key,apply "fine"compound to crank and install and rotate flywheel for several minutes,remove apply and repeat. Clean and your golden.
 

ScottWyler

Seaman Apprentice
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Jul 11, 2016
Messages
32
Alright guys so........I tested the kill switch, it seems to be fine. I removed the flywheel....this is my second flywheel and it does not seem to be spun BUT it is pitted... the timer base was not being held down by clips either. i was able to take the timer base off freely by just unplugging it from power pack. there is a black rubbing of some sort in the inside of the timer base and it seems like maybe it is from the flywheel? this is also a brand new timer base that i have just replaced for no reason because i thought my problem was that the first mechanic put a used one one but it was the flywheel and power pack that wend bad. im going to send pictures attached.
 

ScottWyler

Seaman Apprentice
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Jul 11, 2016
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Hello guys, can the pitting and grime on the surface cause faulty timer base operation?!!?! Pics below... Pics are here.
 

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Bosunsmate

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Where its worn the timer base it may of stuffed that timer base.
Try ohmns testing it and referring to the values in the free online CDI troubleshooter manual
The timerbases arent meant to be tied down, they rotate with a linkage when you move the throttle. The rotation is what changes the timing and gives you the power boost.
More fuel via the butterfly valve in the carburettor is used for acceleration actually only much later in the acceleration process
 

ScottWyler

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Jul 11, 2016
Messages
32
Where its worn the timer base it may of stuffed that timer base.
Try ohmns testing it and referring to the values in the free online CDI troubleshooter manual
The timerbases arent meant to be tied down, they rotate with a linkage when you move the throttle. The rotation is what changes the timing and gives you the power boost.
More fuel via the butterfly valve in the carburettor is used for acceleration actually only much later in the acceleration process

What do you mean exactly? the timer base might have worn the timer base? sorry im confused.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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These parts do not touch each other.----Nothing there is worn out .----It all looks normal to me.
 

Faztbullet

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15,902
That timer base has been rubbing!!!! If it just lifted off the last person forgot to install the bushing in timer base groove, this holds it down but allows it to move.
 

ScottWyler

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Jul 11, 2016
Messages
32
That timer base has been rubbing!!!! If it just lifted off the last person forgot to install the bushing in timer base groove, this holds it down but allows it to move.

Ok so Can you please tell Me, is the timing base bushing supposed to clamp on to the timer base? Where is the groove that you are talking about exactly?
 

Bosunsmate

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Apr 7, 2012
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Look up a parts diagram and you will see it.
Post photos of how it looks when sitting on yours.
Whatever happened it has being hit, run against, its not normal looking, did you say you have a spare one?
 
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