You can also use the old heat technique. Get your portable hand torch and heat the lugs and bolts. The expansion/contraction cycle will be sufficient to break the rust enough for you to be able to get them to break loose.
PB Blaster is also another great way to get it to break loose.
Semi-hijack, sorry. Why no anti-seize plz ?If they are older hubs he may have lug bolts which if broken have to be drilled. (Best to spray them from behind with PB) As for nuts, if you bust a stud the lugs are pressed in and can be replaced by driving the old one out through the back. 30 years in auto service. Anti-seize is not recommended on lug bolts.
Because the specs for torque on lug nuts is for dry threads. Any lubricant on the threads and you risk over torquing.Semi-hijack, sorry. Why no anti-seize plz ?
X2 heat does wonders... Also, a bit of heat will make miniscule cracks in the rust coating, allowing penetrating oil to soak in deeper. I HAVNT TRIED this, but my friends, sisters, uncles, dads neighbor said if ya heat it up, douch it with cold water, smack it w a hammer, ya can REALLY get the penetrating oil to penetrate
Semi-hijack, sorry. Why no anti-seize plz ?
Because the specs for torque on lug nuts is for dry threads. Any lubricant on the threads and you risk over torquing.
Because the specs for torque on lug nuts is for dry threads. Any lubricant on the threads and you risk over torquing.
Of course you will get a lot of guys that will say they have lubed their threads and never had a problem. I just do what the specifications say and they say to torque them dry.
Thanks for the knowledge gentleman... Any ideas on another method to keep luck nuts from rusting on ? We Minnesotans with all the salt and snow fight rusted lug nuts all the time. Of course the boat is sleeping by the time the snow flies. [ rust never sleeps however] But on vehicles and snowmobile trailers, after 'bout 2-3 yrs they can be damn near welded on. Again, sorry for the semi-hijack, but its still on topic....In addition, Anti-seize is a semi permanent lubricant resulting in the possibility of the nut backing off the stud under certain conditions. Capped lug nuts are more prone to this. Lug nuts actually benefit form a bit of dry lug. Keeping them in place after torquing and through your travels. Most important when four wheeling. Frozen nuts (I had to type that) are a small inconvenience for safety.
Thanks for the knowledge gentleman... Any ideas on another method to keep luck nuts from rusting on ? We Minnesotans with all the salt and snow fight rusted lug nuts all the time. Of course the boat is sleeping by the time the snow flies. [ rust never sleeps however] But on vehicles and snowmobile trailers, after 'bout 2-3 yrs they can be damn near welded on. Again, sorry for the semi-hijack, but its still on topic....
I have never had one fall off or even come loose for that matter either. I use anti-sieze on everything w wheels. But now I KNOW I have over torqued them. I think the lesser of 2 evils is to keep using anti sieze and pay close attn to the lug nuts.. In this climate we are kind off damned if we do , damned if we dont. Thanks for the heads up guys...I know what has been said - but all my trailers that see winter get anti-seize on the threads. Never had a lug come flying off on the car trailers or sled trailers from doing that.
Thanks for the knowledge gentleman... Any ideas on another method to keep luck nuts from rusting on ? We Minnesotans with all the salt and snow fight rusted lug nuts all the time. Of course the boat is sleeping by the time the snow flies. [ rust never sleeps however] But on vehicles and snowmobile trailers, after 'bout 2-3 yrs they can be damn near welded on. Again, sorry for the semi-hijack, but its still on topic....