How would you seal this hole?

[landlover42]

I just picked up my Carolina Skiff J14 at the factory today in Waycross GA. It had just been made and has not been exposed to any water or rain. They do not sell direct, but I picked it up for my dealer in NC.

The Carolina Skiffs have this hull:

Many owners have complained about water getting into the hull. Most think it is due to improperly sealed screwing into the hull, however there is some evidence that the cable chase can also function as the pathway for water intrusion. The cable chase is open at the motor area but you would have to drill through the floor at the center console if you put one in. I just have two bench seats and no center console.

The inside of the cable chase hole looks like this:

It is very important that no water increase the weight of this hull as it is going to be transported on a truck rack. My plan is to not drill into the floor for any reason and to seal this hole. I have never worked with fiberglass, but I am pretty handy and enjoy reading and following directions. The trouble is, I don't know what I should do to seal this hole or what products to buy. If you could be specific it would be very helpful. That plastic strip at the top of the hole appears to be covering a raw edge and could be removed to expose the fiberglass.

Also, can any harm come to the hull because it has a large expandable pocket of air trapped inside it?

thanks very much for any ideas,
fred

 

[Woodonglass]

I'm pretty sure you'll void the factory warranty if you do any grinding and glassing on this.

 

[Mr.Stickney]

I'm thinking some sort of rubber plug? Glass a piece of wood the just smaller than the dimensions of the hole with a slight taper to it. Adhere some sort of sealing ring or rubber sheet around it and pound it in with a rubber mallet.

I know Fastenal sells tubing plugs. Depending on the actual dimensions you may be able to find something pre-fab.

That's my .02 based on WOG's thoughts on the warranty.

 

[landlover42]

Thanks very much,

What about the trapped air issue? Does heated air ever pose a pressure problem for fiberglass hulls?

I agree, I probably don't want to start sanding on this. Are there any marine grade expandable spray foams? Like the "Great Stuff" product, or as some people refer to it: "Not such Great Stuff".

I like the plug idea, but really don't want to stress the area by pounding something in. If you made a loose fitting plug, could any of the marine caulks help here? Would 5200 be too permanent? Perhaps there is another more forgiving caulk for this area?

 

[gm280]

If you are merely wanting to seal this to trailer it back in case of rain, why not use some simply expandable foam in the can from most any store. Just spray it on the every front, let it expand and happy trailering. Then once you get to your destination, remove the foam...

 

[Mr.Stickney]

5200 would be very permanent. I'm thinking 4000UV should do the trick, if you use a tube cap you could poke some small holes near the top to allow some air/heat escape if you think it would be an issue. What are the dimensions of the hole?

 

[Watermann]

Most water gets inside a boat from the weather, get a cover for the boat.

 

[HAV2FISH]

Just a thought, how about a tire iner tube. Put it in the hole then inflate sealing up the hole. Then deflate and remove whenever you wish.

 

[landlover42]

I'm sorry I was not clear about it. I don't want to ever use this channel for anything. It is off of the sump, so any ocean splash or rain while in the water will wash into this hole and 8' or so forward. I see 4000UV works well with ABS. I can buy a block of ABS that will go into this hole about 2". Then lather it up with 4000UV, insert and caulk the crack with 4000UV.

thanks for all the ideas,
fred

 

[Watermann]

I got ya, I would make a block of that ABS stuff that overlaps the hole top and bottom since there's a lip there buttering it with the sealer Do that instead of putting it inside the hole just in case someone kicks it so it doesn't push in and jar loose.

 

[BillP]

I would install a drain plug in whatever you block it off with so you reserve the option of checking the hull for moisture and draining. It isn't structural or under pressure so there is no need to glass it tight either. This is a place where 5200 can be used and removed later (with delicate hand and chisel - or a debonder) Then you can remove it without physical destruction to the hull if warranty becomes an issue. I have a similar setup with one transom drain plug but drain plugs on the starboard and port sde of the sump. I pull the plugs and point the bow up for storage.

bp

 

[Outsider]

OK, now tell me why you think water would do anything adverse in the chase? What's at the other end? Is it not glassed thru and thru? If you seal it off, sooner or later you will open it up, 'sealed' is a misnomer when it comes to anything 'boat' ... :gossip:

 

[MTboatguy]

Honestly, I think somebody is over thinking something on a brand new boat that has not even been in the water yet to see what might happen.

:surprise:

 

[landlover42]

I don't think I am surprising anyone when I say I am often accused of over thinking things. I am a nerd engineer and find the over thinking technique both enjoyable and preferable to just blindly bumbling through life and picking up the pieces afterwards. I agree, however, that my ridiculousness in this thread and an associated thread below need some explanation.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...to-inside-hull

I pull a 32' fifth wheel with a F350 dually. I always stay at an ocean front site for at least a month. Some happily just attach a trailer hitch to back of the fifth wheel and pull their boat. I unfortunately, either have not enough of one body part or too much of another body part to do that. I have designed an elaborate side loading truck rack that will winch the boat up, upside down with an attached Wheeleze beach dolly. There is also a hoist to separately secure the motor to the rack. I have a bad back and cannot lift anything. The hull and the two bench seats will probably be about 300 lbs which is pushing it for this design. It is important that water intrusion not add to this weight.

The Carolina Skiff Owners forum has some evidence that the cable chase, not just poorly sealed screwing can contribute to water intrusion. Some owners are drilling two 1" holes 10' or so from the bottom of the transom into the saturated hulls and installing plugs. I don't want to do that.

http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/sh...ighlight=chase

Sorry, just noticed this link requires a login....
http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/sh...Water-in-Hull!

I greatly value the fiberglass and hull knowledge you all have as I know nothing about it. You have helped me narrow down the solution for both of my threads. I ditched the High Density Polyethylene, briefly thought about ABS, but now think the best material is fiberglass (fiberglass-reinforced polyester (FRP)). The hole in this thread is actually 1.5" high, so I can get 1.5" square bars from McMaster-Carr. This could also be used for the battery box and gas tank holders in the other thread.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-fi...sheets/=y7ibh2

You all and 3M have helped me decide on 4000UV instead of 5200 which would be too permanent. If the 4000UV fails I can always use the 5200.

thanks for your help,
fred