Re: How to test an ESA module without an engine ?
I have an ESA module for a 4.3 V6 OMC Cobra that I would like to sell. I'm not going to use it ever, I think.
I would like to test it, so I can prove for an interesting buyer that it works. But I don't have an engine I can put it on. Well I have a V6 engine in the Draco 1800, but that one has electronic ignition.
Has anyone tried to connect it to a battery with a few wires, a light bulb and so on, so you could perform a test on the work bench?
Howdy,
I seem to remember a procedure to test an ESA when connected to the engine. You could look at the manual for the procedure.
Have a look at
Boatinfo - OMC 1986-1998 Service Manual
Go to page 10-62 (OMC stern drives) Fig 52 and/or 153.
You'll be looking at the engine wiring diagrams for the GM and Ford engines. The ESA is wired with a "control" wire connected to the negative lead on the coil (where the points are connected) The ESA is in parallel with the points. This would allow the ESA to "short" the points to ground intermittently.....(there must be an "open collector" to do the "shorting!)
You could also just connect it to any engine and see if it "stumbles" the engine.
From the wiring diagram, There's appears to be only 4 connections to the ESA............ there's an A+ and Ground (-) connection, and one switch connection.
There's 2 switches for normal operation. An actuator switch and an over-stroke switch............. but they're connected to the same BL (blue) wire.
The GR (Gray) wire goes to the (-) points side of the coil.
The PU (purple) wire is A+ (12v DC)
The B (black) wire is ground.
The BL (Blue) wire is switched to ground
THROUGH the actuator /over-stroke switch.
It appears the ESA intermittently grounds the (-) the GR wire, so you may
not be able to see the rapid "pulses" on an analog meter (if they're too rapid) .
Since the ESA appears to "pulse" the ignition, (causing the engine to "lope") you could probably wire it using a "breadboard" hookup and an oscilloscope.
Connect 12v through a 1K resistor to the gray wire (the one that would go to the (-) coil connection).
Connect another 1k from the gray wire to ground. (This will create a simple voltage divider with 6v across each resistor)
Connect the Oscilloscope across to second resistor (the one that goes to ground)
Power up the ESA and actuate the switch connected to Blue wire.
You should see voltage across the resistor (the one connected from the gray wire to ground) until you actuate the switch.
Depending on the pulse rate, it could either show no drop in voltage or a slight drop (measured with an analog meter)
If it's a rapid pulse, it'll be very clear on a scope.
It's also possible that the ESA provides pulsed 12v DC to the negative side of the coil. If this is the case, you would see it on an analog meter or a scope. and it might even light a small bulb!
To make it easier though, my suggestion would be to just wire it up to an engine and try it!
I'll assume you're not trying to sell it here. (classified ads are prohibited)
You could put it on EBAY or craigslist though. Don't expect to get more than about $25 or so. (new ones are around $100)
Cheers,
Rick
Ok,
Here's a thread where someone did simple test procedure.....essentially what I'm suggesting above...... iBoats search is your little friend!
http://forums.iboats.com/omc-i-o-inboard-engines-outdrives/esa-not-working-501191.html