How to: Modify Manual Crank Downrigger to Electric 12 volt

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M9.9

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Dec 4, 2011
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Hi all you fishermen and fisherwoman,

Tired of HAND cranking your downrigger weight up and down the depths?, well here is some help that won't cost you much money.
I'm in the middle of converting my new Cannon "Lake Troll" manual downrigger to electric. At this time after two weeks design and a lot of tryit, fixit, test it, I have modified, installed and tested a 12 volt motor and it works fine.

Far from complete but the serious work is done. I had built one once before in the mid-eighties and used it for about five seasons before selling the boat and all the marine devices included, never had any trouble with the 12 volt operation.
Next will be the electrical switchs (3): Up/off/Down; High/off/Low--Speed; and off/On--lights (for night fishing walley...).

When it's completed, pics, video, drawings and photos will be available, how I download the info I'll need some help with from iBoats.
As I go along the basic parts I will list here so those interested can get an idea of what parts are needed should you decide to make your own modification to 12 volt dc electric.

After checking with various sites re OEM Cannon parts, I found it will be cheaper to buy the OEM Cannon Lake Troll parts (appx 80.00) than buy the complete unit (appx 140.00-165.00), as a lot of original spool-drive parts will not be used after the mods are done. You will be able to buy the omitted Cannon parts should you decide to revert the d-rigger back to manual.
NOTE: This project will test your mechanical skills (sure tested mine-lol), so I don't recommend this project for people not mechanically inclined or little tool resources.

1. Basic Parts: 12 volt DC Drive:

-Cannon "Lake Troll" Down Rigger (or: OEM Body, Spool, (Teflon bushings, Teflon washers (2 of each))
-12 volt Saturn type Windshield Washer Motor (must be front winshield type, not rear). NOTE this unit has metric M6 male output drive.
-5" Copper tube type "L" heavy wall 1/2" OD.
-Metric M6 1.5 inch length hex Coupler female/female.
-3 M6 Bolts 2 inch length
-2, 1/8" x 1" lockpins and SS Cotter Pins
- other minor parts tba.

I'll be updating this thread as I go...
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
Staff member
Joined
May 19, 2001
Messages
26,022
Re: How to: Modify Manual Crank Downrigger to Electric 12 volt

This sounds interesting. Curious about the wiper motor thing. I have seen window motors adapted to many things.....

Okay I am waiting and watching this one.

Don't forget step by step pictures
 

M9.9

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 4, 2011
Messages
152
Re: How to: Modify Manual Crank Downrigger to Electric 12 volt

Hi Bob,

Searched around the internet and found there are some pretty-good deals on new WWMs, from 20.00 to 250.00. I went with the lower as, I was told, they were end of production Saturn models. Needless to say I bought two-lol.

The only major thing to be done now is the wiring/soldering and mounting of the switches, which I expect to arrive this week from the USA. I could not find a DPDT (Momentary (on) off (on), at iboats, but did order LED navigation lighting and a switch panel for the boat from iBoats.

Scott
 

M9.9

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 4, 2011
Messages
152
Re: How to: Modify Manual Crank Downrigger to Electric 12 volt

Hi all, almost done with this conversion and believe me what a mess I have going-on trying to do this in the kitchen. My work-shack's not heated so...
Only have half a stove as my drill press is borrowing the other half; the counters are finally cleared-off after becoming work benches for a month-lol. But the end result was worth it.

Designing and making the unit electric was actually straight forward, it was taking pics and video and drawing/writing the specs on it that took a lot of time, thank goodness it's almost done!

Just did the protective painting of components.. Switch wirings' been tested, soldered and the final assembly is basically all that's left to do. With the exception of making the special spool lock/pwr-off device I designed for safety. But I'll begin posting info probably before I finish the spool/pwr lock device in a few days.

Scott
 

SaintJameda

Recruit
Joined
Apr 10, 2021
Messages
1
Hi all you fishermen and fisherwoman,

Tired of HAND cranking your downrigger weight up and down the depths?, well here is some help that won't cost you much money.
I'm in the middle of converting my new Cannon "Lake Troll" manual downrigger to electric. At this time after two weeks design and a lot of tryit, fixit, test it, I have modified, installed and tested a 12 volt motor and it works fine.

Far from complete but the serious work is done. I had built one once before in the mid-eighties and used it for about five seasons before selling the boat and all the marine devices included, never had any trouble with the 12 volt operation.
Next will be the electrical switchs (3): Up/off/Down; High/off/Low--Speed; and off/On--lights (for night fishing walley...).

When it's completed, pics, video, drawings and photos will be available, how I download the info I'll need some help with from iBoats.
As I go along the basic parts I will list here so those interested can get an idea of what parts are needed should you decide to make your own modification to 12 volt dc electric.

After checking with various sites re OEM Cannon parts, I found it will be cheaper to buy the OEM Cannon Lake Troll parts (appx 80.00) than buy the complete unit (appx 140.00-165.00), as a lot of original spool-drive parts will not be used after the mods are done. You will be able to buy the omitted Cannon parts should you decide to revert the d-rigger back to manual.
NOTE: This project will test your mechanical skills (sure tested mine-lol), so I don't recommend this project for people not mechanically inclined or little tool resources.

1. Basic Parts: 12 volt DC Drive:

-Cannon "Lake Troll" Down Rigger (or: OEM Body, Spool, (Teflon bushings, Teflon washers (2 of each))
-12 volt Saturn type Windshield Washer Motor (must be front winshield type, not rear). NOTE this unit has metric M6 male output drive.
-5" Copper tube type "L" heavy wall 1/2" OD.
-Metric M6 1.5 inch length hex Coupler female/female.
-3 M6 Bolts 2 inch length
-2, 1/8" x 1" lockpins and SS Cotter Pins
- other minor parts tba.

I'll be updating this thread as I go...
Did you ever get photos and/or video uploaded?
 
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