Re: How much HP would be gained adding 4bbl to 5.0L Volvo GL Vortec?
Update: Carb's installed. Took about an hour. VERY straightforward and easy once I got a new fuel line made. Pics attached.
The fuel line with the silver ends was my factory fuel line. The new carb had a different fuel inlet location, plus a different size fitting, so I couldn't re-use the old one. The line with the blue ends is one that I had made at a local speed shop. Not the cheapest fuel line, but I wanted a good one. Paid $46 for all fittings, teflon lined braided hose, and tax. They assembled it for free in about 5 minutes. If any of you want to do this at home, the Volvo electric fuel pump side is 5/8"-18 threads, and the Holley 4175 inlet end is 1/2"-20 threads. I could have PROBABLY just cut one end off the factory fuel line and got by with attaching only one end for cheaper, but after 12 years of age, I thought better to just build an all new fuel line while I had it off.
These Volvos are simply MADE to do this conversion with the 4175 marine carb...a total slam dunk. Sooooooo much easier, faster, and MUCH MUCH cheaper than doing a Mercruiser!! I had to relocate throttle linkage mount one hole forward, which involves just one bolt. The plate even has clear marks that say "2V" and "4V"...presumably for 2bbl and 4bbl carbs. I took a pic of this too. You can see the dirt outline where the mount was previously with the 2bbl. After doing this, the linkage just bolts right up just like it did to the old carb and nothing needed any adjustment.
The vacuum port for the PCV valve is moved from rear to the front of the carb. So PCV valve hose wouldn't reach. Rather than run a super long, twisty new line, I just moved the PCV valve to the other side of the motor (the opposite valve cover), and moved the vent hose that leads into the flame arrestor from that valve cover over to where the PCV valve previously was. I see no disadvantage to swapping these, and saved me from buying any parts or changing the length of either hose.
Electric choke just plugs right into factory harness...plug & play.
The ONLY parts I needed to buy were the carb itself for $280, and the fuel line for $46. All my gaskets and mount kit hardware came with the Ebay carb from Holley. I needed to buy nothing more. So I'm exactly $326 out of pocket, and as far as I can tell, I'm 100% done. Plus I have a well-tuned factory Volvo/Holley 2bbl and fuel line that I may be able to sell someday if I choose to, and offset some of this cost.
I fired it up on muffs in the drive tonight after install. Ran crappy at first and wouldn't idle, but after tweaking idle mixture screws and idle speed for a few minutes, I got it running like a top. Seems to have very good throttle reponse with no bog or anything, and a nice smooth idle. But I can only do so much in the driveway...she needs a test drive. Hopefully tomorrow? Right now it appears my schedule will allow, but if work comes in fast & furious as it sometimes does, I'll have to postpone the boat ride for about 1.5 weeks because my schedule is JAMMED after tomorrow. BUT I'm pretty sure I'll be reporting back with performance stats tomorrow! Will be kinda bummed if it runs 56 mph...or less. We shall see!
Oh, as a side note I pulled the float bowl off of this carb to take a look and it has 61 jets in it. Hopefully I don't need to rejet it leaner, because I don't have anything smaller than 64's in my stash. Worst case I'll need to buy some more jets. $10 or less. I will report back if I find it necessary to play with jetting. Most reports I've found from the few people who have installed this carb have told me it runs very well out of the box and rejetting may not be needed at all.
Go back to post #27 of this thread if you want to see my 'before' pic. 'After' pic is below...