Re: how do u change the prop shaft?
Unfortunately he indicated in his first post that the shaft snapped and the prop fell off, I don't expect he's got an end of a prop shaft to thread a nut onto!!
I don't know if the shafts are hardened all the way thru, if not you might be able to drill and tap a hole into the busted end of the shaft, and use a bolt to pull with.
Or, go down to your local muffler shop and have them weld a nut with the same threads as a slide hammer to the end of the prop shaft. You'll probably want to grind the busted end down a bit to give an even surface for the welded nut. Caution: be sure they apply their ground to the propshaft and NOT the gearcase! You don't want a lot of welding amps running thru your gears and bearings. Not good for them!
Once you've gotten past the issue of how to pull on the prop shaft, you still need to get that pesky bearing retainer out!
Sometimes it won't come even with the slide hammer on there. Rather than just continuing on beating things up, you can use a small torch to heat the sides of the gearcase where the bearing carrier sits. This'll expand the gearcase enough to release the carrier while you're yarfing on the slide hammer.
Once you get the carrier out, clean the O.D. of the carrier and the I.D. of the gearcase of any deposits/debris. This would be a good time to renew the propshaft seals if they're not in perfect condition.
Inspect Fwd, Rev, and pinion gear for strike damage. When you install the new propshaft, make sure all the old shift clutch parts etc taken out of the old propshaft are transferred over correctly, and the clutch dog slides back and forth on the new shaft properly. Make sure the shift plunger is in the end of the propshaft. Use a little stiff grease to hold it in place.
When you reassemble, install a new bearing carrier O-ring and apply a thin coating of Permatex #3 aviation gasket dressing. Also use the Permatex to seal the areas where the O.D. of the bearing carrier contact the I.D. of the gearcase. This'll keeps salt/alkali deposits from forming in the future and locking the carrier in place.
Take note that there's likely a key in the lower part of the gearcase that engages a slot in the bearing carrier to correctly orient the carrier and keep it (I assume) from spinning in the gearcase. Make sure this key is in the proper position and the slot in the carrier is clear of any debris that might interfere with its fitment.
The retaining nut must be torqued and it's considerable. I can't recall what the specs are for yours but if I remember correctly it's around 150 ft-lbs for Inlines. Maybe one of the other Guru's on the forum has that torque spec on hand.
You could make your own torquing tool by slotting a hunk of pipe to fit the slots in the retaining nut, and welding a nut for a socket to fit torque wrench. Or maybe you have a nice local dlr who'll torque it up for you!!
Don't forget to bend over the locking tabs when you're done.
That's about it, except for gear oil and a new prop!
HTH & watch out for them thar Deadheads!...........ed
