Hot Elbow with New Manifolds and Smoking

flboatmanbay

Recruit
Joined
Apr 15, 2023
Messages
4
So I have a 5.0L Mercruiser 2005. It got a lot of use up to about 4 years ago and has been sitting ever since. I took the opportunity to do some much need maintenance. I replaced the exhaust manifolds and elbows, rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the trim cylinders, changed the oil, spark plugs, wires, fuel/water filter, fuel pump (was bad), and I think that's about it.

The challenge I'm having is that it's smoking still. It was smoking before (4-5 years ago) as well, worse when you first start it and gets better as it warms up but still smokes some. I did a compression test and 6 of the cylinders were around 190 psi and 2 of them were at 150 psi. Although I know it's not ideal to see a difference like that, it's still 150 psi which seems plenty high and doesn't make me think it's a head gasket. I've tried adjusting the fuel mixture screw on the carb after rebuilding but doesn't seem to make a difference. Doesn't seem like it does much of anything. I can bottom it out and have really no noticeable change in idle and out 6+ turns and still no change so I set it at about 1.5 turns from bottom as they recommend for a starting point. Anything else that might cause smoke? It smells a little rich.

The other thing I noticed that concerns me is that one exhaust elbow is very hot after running (right manifold in pic below) and the other one is cool as a cucumber (left manifold). It looks like I'm getting exhaust water off both sides of the outdrive and through the prop so it seems like it's getting water through both sides but I don't know if it's one side if it will still come out all 3 places. What could the issues be? Any input welcome. Thanks!


IMG_1773.JPGIMG_1774.JPGIMG_1775.JPG
 

dubs283

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
5,322
190 vs 150 psi is a notable difference. Which cylinders were lower number psi?

If there's no change in idle speed/runability with adjusting the idle air mixture then either the idle speed set screw is out of adjustment or the idle air mix circuit in the carb base is clogged/faulty adjustment screw.

A rich running condition can be caused by incorrect idle ignition timing, weak compression on one or more cylinders, choke inoperation, incorrect float height, debris in the carburetor, etc...

You say one riser is hot after running and the other is cool. Have you checked this condition with the engine running? On trailer/muffs or in water?
 

flboatmanbay

Recruit
Joined
Apr 15, 2023
Messages
4
190 vs 150 psi is a notable difference. Which cylinders were lower number psi?

If there's no change in idle speed/runability with adjusting the idle air mixture then either the idle speed set screw is out of adjustment or the idle air mix circuit in the carb base is clogged/faulty adjustment screw.

A rich running condition can be caused by incorrect idle ignition timing, weak compression on one or more cylinders, choke inoperation, incorrect float height, debris in the carburetor, etc...

You say one riser is hot after running and the other is cool. Have you checked this condition with the engine running? On trailer/muffs or in water?
Could be float height, not sure I adjusted that. Idle screw was adjusted almost all the way out to get to 800 rpm but it seems to be running higher rpm a lot.

The hot riser is on trailer with muffs. The other one is cool, not even a little warm, and the right side is hot enough I can't touch for more than 1/2 second.
 

dubs283

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
5,322
800 rpm is out of spec for idle speed. The flame arrestor cover info indicates idle speed in neutral us (looks like) 650 rpm. Would guess idle speed screw is misadjusted.

Concerning your cooling issue I'd first suspect a blockage of cooling water either before or after the suspect manifold. Has the engine ever overheated?
 

flashback

Captain
Joined
Jun 28, 2002
Messages
3,963
I've heard that if the boat is not level the high side will run hot when on muffs..fwiw
 

flboatmanbay

Recruit
Joined
Apr 15, 2023
Messages
4
800 rpm is out of spec for idle speed. The flame arrestor cover info indicates idle speed in neutral us (looks like) 650 rpm. Would guess idle speed screw is misadjusted.

Concerning your cooling issue I'd first suspect a blockage of cooling water either before or after the suspect manifold. Has the engine ever overheated?
No never overheated. Where would be a good place to start looking for a blockage? Do these cool from the engine block or from the water line that feeds the front of the elbow? I assume the latter?

Like I said, had the idle speed screw all the way out and it was still idling kind of high.
 

flboatmanbay

Recruit
Joined
Apr 15, 2023
Messages
4
I've heard that if the boat is not level the high side will run hot when on muffs..fwiw
Interesting. Yeah it's not sitting on the trailer quite level. Under normal operating conditions they should both be cool I assume right?
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,954
Interesting. Yeah it's not sitting on the trailer quite level. Under normal operating conditions they should both be cool I assume right?
Ayuh,...... Welcome Aboard,...... "Cool" is a relative term,..... Runnin' hard, to flat out, it should be somewhat tolerable to touch 'em,....

I see a long list of serviced items, but I didn't see rebuildin' the raw water pump/ impeller,.....

'n as noted, an unlevel motor will run hot on the high side,.....
 
Top