Horn and bilge wiring

wa_ssv197

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Apr 6, 2009
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On my 16' Lund, it is now required in WA to have a horn in the boat. Battery is located at the stern under a hatch along with bilge pump. I would like to install two rocker switches on the console. One will be off/Momentary on for the horn and the other will be on/off/momentary on for the bilge (the momentary leg will be on and on will be auto. Will I have to run wires to the battery and back or can I tie into the hot on the igntion for the horn. I know I will have to run from the bilge to the switch, so that will be no biggy.
 

wa_ssv197

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266
Re: Horn and bilge wiring

•Vessels less than 65.6 feet in length (including PWCs, sailboats, and manually powered vessels) are required to carry on board a mouth-, hand-, or power-operated whistle or horn, or some other means to make an efficient sound signal.

I already have the horn and switches, might as well use them.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 22, 2003
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28,762
Re: Horn and bilge wiring

The boat should have a fuse panel does it not? If so, you get +12 volts there. Run +12 volts to the switches. From the switches to the horn and to the bilge pump. Ground for the pump is at the battery. Ground for the horn can be wherever you find it. That may be a ground buss at the console or if there is none, then back to the battery. Since the boat probably has bow and stern lights, see where the bow light is grounded.
 

wa_ssv197

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Re: Horn and bilge wiring

Back to the battery it is, no nav lights either or fuse panel, only thing that was wired before other than ignition is fish finder and that has an inline fuse. I am going with Attwoods new battery powered LED Navigation lights.
 

wa_ssv197

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Re: Horn and bilge wiring

Ok, boat is almost done, I am wanting to reduce the # of wires running to the battery. I would like to use the following blocks. Which should I use for negative and possitive? I would have one wire going from battery + or - to the block and then from the block to each item (Fish Finder, Bilge, & Horn)
574AD638-8AF6-4EDC-982D-EDF75260A13C-2812-0000039FB4FC8D85.jpg
 

Don S

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62,321
Re: Horn and bilge wiring

You have a terminal block and a bus bar pictured. You need 2 of the bottom bus bars for what you want to do.
You could use the top one, but you would need to make jumpers for one side to turn it into a bus bar. They do make jumpers for the terminal blocks.
 

wa_ssv197

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Re: Horn and bilge wiring

Ok, I do want to make the top using jumpers to make like the bottom. Would it matter which was for the negative or positive?
 

Don S

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Re: Horn and bilge wiring

Use the terminal block for the positive. Lot more protection of accidentily getting shorted to ground.

You might want to consider using the right parts in the right place at the right time instead of just using whatever you happen to have laying around.
 

brnschoneck

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Feb 22, 2013
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Re: Horn and bilge wiring

I don't think you are required to have the type you are referring to. You always needed a sounding device.

Sound-Producing Devices - Washington Boating License Laws and Safety Guide

i would run a seperate power or tap into a accessory u dont wanna tap into the ingnition,/ engine power wires it can cause problems i like to keep everything sepertate on its own circuits . this also makes trouble shooting should a problem arise a lot easier.. just my fyi
 

Georgesalmon

Lieutenant Commander
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Apr 14, 2012
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1,793
Re: Horn and bilge wiring

You can buy commercialy made jumpers for the terminal block. Try Radio Shack. You can make jumpers with some wire and ring terminals too, but the purpose made ones look and work better/easier. Make sure you fuse everything. inline fues are fine.
 

mercurymang

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 14, 2012
Messages
850
Re: Horn and bilge wiring

First thing I did after I bought my boat home was install one of these:

5034 Blue Sea ST Blade Fuse Block w/out Cover - 12 Circuit w/out Negat

pick up some #14 red and black. Run the red wire from the positive bus to the battery + terminal and put a large inline fuse in it just before the battery. Run the black from the ground bus to the battery - terminal. Now you have a nice fused source from which you can wire anything you would like.
 

wa_ssv197

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Messages
266
Re: Horn and bilge wiring

Use the terminal block for the positive. Lot more protection of accidentily getting shorted to ground.

You might want to consider using the right parts in the right place at the right time instead of just using whatever you happen to have laying around.

The FF already has a 5 amp inline fuse and the bilge has a 2 amp, the horn draws less than 1/2amp. I can get another terminal block no problem. Would that be the correct way? I plan on keeping the inline fuses under the console and the terminal blocks near the battery box.
 

NYBo

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Oct 23, 2008
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7,107
Re: Horn and bilge wiring

Those terminal blocks don't have a lot of current-carrying capacity.
 
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