Honda BF115 power tilt relay wiring

[Mlevy]

Hi all,

My power tilt relay has corroded to near dust (see picture). The price of a new one has me at least wondering if it is possible to wire two typical relays rather than spending the $450 the dealer wants. I have attached a picture of the wiring diagram from the manual as well.

As you can see in the corroded relay image there is 7 pins per relay. It appears some connection points have double pins. Could these be spliced together and then connected? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

[dingbat]

Hi all,

My power tilt relay has corroded to near dust (see picture). The price of a new one has me at least wondering if it is possible to wire two typical relays rather than spending the $450 the dealer wants. I have attached a picture of the wiring diagram from the manual as well.

As you can see in the corroded relay image there is 7 pins per relay. It appears some connection points have double pins. Could these be spliced together and then connected? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Don’t see anything melted or bulging. Pretty good chance there is nothing wrong with the relays.

The corrosion is you problem. Clean everything up real well (make shiny) and see what happens.

Personally, I would just replace the lugs. May end up cutting back the wire(s) and splicing new section of wire(s) with lugs in its place.

If in fact the relay(s) turns out to be the problem, the mfg. part number is on the relay.

 

[sam am I]

is possible to wire two typical relays rather than spending the $450 the dealer wants.

$450? For Crap Saks!!

Yes, but not necessarily "typical", a 30A automotive type with integral diode would work fine(see below link) and to me, it doesn't look like there is anything worth saving as it looks like one relay's lug has plum rotted off.......Replace both!! Then yes, cut the wires back to clean copper and crimp on new lugs too...........

1432790-1 TE Connectivity Potter & Brumfield Relays | Relays | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. 1432790-1 – General Purpose Relay SPDT (1 Form C) 12VDC Coil Socketable from TE Connectivity Potter & Brumfield Relays. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=1432790-1&DocType=Customer+Drawing&DocLang=English

Could these be spliced together and then connected?

Yes

 

[Mlevy]

Picked up two 40A 5 lug relays yesterday. Will update over the weekend on how I make out. Don’t want to spend the 450 on a work I progress motor. If I get it back up and running I might spend the cash if I feel the automotive relays are not reliable enough. Just tired of manually tilting the motor. Damn things heavy!

 

[sam am I]

So those should work and this is a moot point if you got similar type, but be advised the diodes that are shown and are present/internal to the OEM relays and the ones I linked you to at Digikey are intended to clamp high voltage spikes that come from the relay coils each time the relay is energize/de-energize(raise/lower motor).

Stating the bleeding obvious........High voltage spikes can damage other more sensitive electronics that are typically(electronic ig, etc) wire into the overall electrical systems.......

 

[Mlevy]

So those should work and this is a moot point if you got similar type, but be advised the diodes that are shown and are present/internal to the OEM relays and the ones I linked you to at Digikey are intended to clamp high voltage spikes that come from the relay coils each time the relay is energize/de-energize(raise/lower motor).

Stating the bleeding obvious........High voltage spikes can damage other more sensitive electronics that are typically(electronic ig, etc) wire into the overall electrical systems.......

These are the relays I picked up, see attached picture of the manual. Does it look like the right gear for the job?

 

[Mlevy]

So those should work and this is a moot point if you got similar type, but be advised the diodes that are shown and are present/internal to the OEM relays and the ones I linked you to at Digikey are intended to clamp high voltage spikes that come from the relay coils each time the relay is energize/de-energize(raise/lower motor).

Stating the bleeding obvious........High voltage spikes can damage other more sensitive electronics that are typically(electronic ig, etc) wire into the overall electrical systems.......

These are the relays I picked up, see attached picture of the manual. Does it look like the right gear for the job?

 

[sam am I]

Yeah they'll work, but they don't appear to have a diode I mentioned above.

You're driving the relay with a mechanical switch, worst case w/o the diode, it could shorten the switches life some by arcing HOWEVER that circuit is most likely isolated from the rest of anything that might have issues, so its not too critical.

 

[Mlevy]

Ok no problem, I will give a call to my local electronics store before using the ones I have and see if they have anything.

 

[sam am I]

You can add diodes(MOV's) externally if you like, just follow how they did it in the schematic your post above.........This is done usually if the relay doesn't contain one.

Back EMF Suppression – BSB Progeny Ltd

progeny.co.uk

 

[Mlevy]

You can add diodes(MOV's) externally if you like, just follow how they did it in the schematic your post above.........This is done usually if the relay doesn't contain one.

Back EMF Suppression – BSB Progeny Ltd

progeny.co.uk

Hey Sam I am, got it all geared up now, for what it consisted of it was a lot simpler than I though once I got all the wire straightened out and got a good look at it. Still don’t understand the wiring diagram though lol.

Turns out the oem diodes were external to begin with and had heat shrink on them. They looked to be in good shape so I reused them. Works great, and all fits back in the factory box which is nice! Now if I ever have to replace them it’s just a quick run to the auto store for some relays.

Thanks again!

 

[Mlevy]

For anyone who might have the same issue and is not the most electronically inclined like myself I have attached a drawing of the oem relays. Each relay post in the picture has the corresponding automotive relay post number. Just move the wires from the original position to the corresponding number on an automotive type relay.

 

[sam am I]

Hey Sam I am, got it all geared up now, for what it consisted of it was a lot simpler than I though once I got all the wire straightened out and got a good look at it. Still don’t understand the wiring diagram though lol.

No worries and glad you're up and running

Turns out the oem diodes were external to begin with and had heat shrink on them. They looked to be in good shape so I reused them. Works great, and all fits back in the factory box which is nice! Now if I ever have to replace them it’s just a quick run to the auto store for some relays.

Thanks again!

Sure, very welcome and yeah, I saw that, but figured they were toast along with everything else and using internal diodes would have been a bit more seamless both short and long term.

Worked out nicely though sounds beings they were more or less sealed under the heat shrink...VERY COOL indeed!!!

AWESOME JOB sticking it to the man BTW!! This is best part of all for me......They can take their $450 and stick it!!! Love it...

 

[Mlevy]

Yes sir you are right, in this economy you can’t afford to just blow cash on something that is overpriced. Hp Fuel pump for this motor is 900$, 1998-2003 Honda Accord fuel pump is almost identical for 120$. Works great and for that price can’t beat it.