Honda 40 impeller issue

[sandman66]

Last week when running my 40 for the first time in several weeks I noticed it was barely pissing out of the peehole .It wasn't completely stopped so I am sure the engine is fine, it never overheated I believe. The previous time I used the boat it seemed fine.
I brought the boat home and picked up a replacement kit from the dealership watched a couple utube videos and printed off a pdf file from Honda that clearly showed the instructions on how to change the impeller.
Everything came apart without issue but when I removed the impeller housing the "fins" were oriented in the opposite direction showed on the Honda pdf as well as the videos I watched. It wasn't in terrible shape, pretty much all there with minimal bits broken off. The rest (housing etc) were all in good shape.
I installed the new one as described in the file and videos and put everything back together. When I fired it up initially there was no water coming out then very little after 10-15 seconds. Shut it down and bang my head a couple times.
I decided to try sticking a wire up thru the peehole. I got it in about the length of the rubber tube, pulled it out and instantly I had flow but not as much as I should have. So next I pulled the rubber tube off and got the wire probably 3-4 inches into the engine and it seemed to help the flow.
So I replaced the tube and restarted the engine. It's pissing OK, enough that I'm not worried about using it, but it could be better.
First question - is it possible for the impeller fins to flip to the wrong direction if its in decent condition? Did Honda change the direction of the impeller at some point? Mine is a 1999 model.
If I installed it correctly (the way it showed on the Honda pdf), what else can I do to increase the flow? Should I take it apart and try to stick a wire up the water tube from below? Is it possible the key fell away while I installed the housing - if so would I get any flow at all?

 

[ahicks]

I wouldn't spend any time worrying about the impeller orientation on installation. It will flip to the correct direction as soon as it's started. New impeller are pretty pliable, and there will be no damage.

If it's pumping water, the key is in place.

Are you running the engine on muffs? If so, the pump is very likely sucking air from a 3rd water intake located immediately above the prop, which could explain the poor water flow.. Running the 35-50 HP Honda design on muffs isn't a very good plan, but if you do, makes sure there's plenty of water pressure, and keep the engine right down on idle - or you're going to smoke your new impeller!

 

[Sea Rider]

Does Honda uses a hose with atached plastic end or the port comes right out the middle leg ? if metal with time and use tends to narrow the inside water passage. Insert the red cannula of a WD-40, carb cleaner and squirt some product liberaly inside, keep cannula inserted. After some minutes of soak rest, poke the cannula up/down several times to loosen internal salt, debris formations and widen passage back to when new.

Check thermostat condition, if severely rusted, salted install a new one along thermo gasket. If impeller, peeing passage and thermo are doing their homework right and engine was salt water used, the engine difinitely has salt excess build ups on all water passages which restricts water flow throughtout the entire powerhead, peeing port included.

If so add Salt Away remover to water and run engine on a barrel for some time at idle, install engine and go for a wot spin as if stealing the combo for a faster deep cleaning.

Happy Boating

 

[sandman66]

I wouldn't spend any time worrying about the impeller orientation on installation. It will flip to the correct direction as soon as it's started. New impeller are pretty pliable, and there will be no damage.

If it's pumping water, the key is in place.

Are you running the engine on muffs? If so, the pump is very likely sucking air from a 3rd water intake located immediately above the prop, which could explain the poor water flow.. Running the 35-50 HP Honda design on muffs isn't a very good plan, but if you do, makes sure there's plenty of water pressure, and keep the engine right down on idle - or you're going to smoke your new impeller!

Not using muffs. I have a 55gal plastic barrel I fill up. The leg is was easily at least in water the same depth as on the lake. I took it out for a spin last weekend. Same thing, it pisses but not like it should. I was constantly checking the temp of the water coming out and although it was warm, it was never "hot". I believe there is also an overheat light that would come on if it gets too warm, which it never did. But I still want to make it right.

 

[sandman66]

Does Honda uses a hose with atached plastic end or the port comes right out the middle leg ? if metal with time and use tends to narrow the inside water passage. Insert the red cannula of a WD-40, carb cleaner and squirt some product liberaly inside, keep cannula inserted. After some minutes of soak rest, poke the cannula up/down several times to loosen internal salt, debris formations and widen passage back to when new.

Check thermostat condition, if severely rusted, salted install a new one along thermo gasket. If impeller, peeing passage and thermo are doing their homework right and engine was salt water used, the engine difinitely has salt excess build ups on all water passages which restricts water flow throughtout the entire powerhead, peeing port included.

If so add Salt Away remover to water and run engine on a barrel for some time at idle, install engine and go for a wot spin as if stealing the combo for a faster deep cleaning.

Happy Boating

Outboard has never been in salt water, just freshwater lakes. When you say "cannula" do you mean the thin red plastic tube that comes with the can?

 

[Sea Rider]

Outboard has never been in salt water, just freshwater lakes. When you say "cannula" do you mean the thin red plastic tube that comes with the can?

Yes sir. Or any other color cannula found in different spry products.

Happy Boating