High current on fuel pump

[QBhoy]

My smartcraft gauge is reads at startup 12.6 then rises to 13.1 is that normal

didnt check the fuel rail screen and the main relay will check thanks

No worries. If the pump is genuinely showing a high current, it’s because it’s on the verge of overloading. Or struggling to perform ior operate within its normal parameters, when all is normal. Only thing that will cause this to not one, but now a second pump…would be it seeing a serious back pressure (as a result of a blockage on the discharge/pressure side of the pump) outwith it’s design capabilities..or it alternatively trying to pull a vacuum almost, as a result of a restriction on the suction side. The latter less likely I’d think. Definitely check the fuel rail strainer screen for sure. Check the supply side too. Filter, tank pick up and strainer. Fuel priming bulb and all fittings associated too. Prove the presence of fuel all the way through.
There is also a chance that there is an overheating situation too. Or a poor continuity of circuitry perhaps.

 

[Michaelalp]

No worries. If the pump is genuinely showing a high current, it’s because it’s on the verge of overloading. Or struggling to perform ior operate within its normal parameters, when all is normal. Only thing that will cause this to not one, but now a second pump…would be it seeing a serious back pressure (as a result of a blockage on the discharge/pressure side of the pump) outwith it’s design capabilities..or it alternatively trying to pull a vacuum almost, as a result of a restriction on the suction side. The latter less likely I’d think. Definitely check the fuel rail strainer screen for sure. Check the supply side too. Filter, tank pick up and strainer. Fuel priming bulb and all fittings associated too. Prove the presence of fuel all the way through.
There is also a chance that there is an overheating situation too. Or a poor continuity of circuitry perhaps.

Should I check the fuel regulator also? Thanks for the help

 

[froggy1150]

Throw a pressure Guage on the fuel rail and start checking everything one step at a time. Look At the current reading and compare to factory specs. Then start at the tank and work forward. Do all the free stuff first like checking screens and flow testing. A pressure reading that is high would indicate a regulator or restriction in return line so flow the return line first(free) then spend on regulator. And same for inlet. Vacuum Guage on line and check reading ......

 

[Michaelalp]

Throw a pressure Guage on the fuel rail and start checking everything one step at a time. Look At the current reading and compare to factory specs. Then start at the tank and work forward. Do all the free stuff first like checking screens and flow testing. A pressure reading that is high would indicate a regulator or restriction in return line so flow the return line first(free) then spend on regulator. And same for inlet. Vacuum Guage on line and check reading ......

Ok thanks

 

[QBhoy]

Should I check the fuel regulator also? Thanks for the help

Yeah. Good idea. Must be odds on likely that there is a restriction on the discharge side of the pump. What age is this engine ? Depending on that, there is a slight variance in their operation. Some are designed to pump pressure against the rail and injectors…and some as far as I understand, have an open vented system with perhaps a return to relieve the pressure. Can’t say for sure about that type though.

 

[Michaelalp]

Yeah. Good idea. Must be odds on likely that there is a restriction on the discharge side of the pump. What age is this engine ? Depending on that, there is a slight variance in their operation. Some are designed to pump pressure against the rail and injectors…and some as far as I understand, have an open vented system with perhaps a return to relieve the pressure. Can’t say for sure about that type though.

Engine is a 2011 year thanks

 

[quicktach]

hi does anyone know how to fix a high current on my 2011 mercury 60 hp efi
Motor. Changed fuel pump, voltage regulator same thing thanks

Nasty time consuming problem. Check for melted or burnt wiring. Check back of components for signs of overheating. Clean paint from ground connections. Check diodes in voltage regulator. Check voltage output to the electrical system…is it steady or variable? Make sure you have a decent multimeter with solid clicks on its selector. You can also do continuity checks on wiring, especially grounds. Look for rubs on wiring near the flywheel.