Hey Rocketboy

rocketboy52

Cadet
Joined
Mar 21, 2006
Messages
26
Re: Hey Rocketboy

Gspig,
I have cut out about 50% of the transom, but I haven't cut into the bunks yet to dig the wood out there. How did you fix your transom, did you haul the whole transom out and replace it, or did you just replace the center section? It looks like I'm going to cut the whole thing out to be on the safe side. I'll take some pics of the project as I go along.
 

gspig

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
Messages
409
Re: Hey Rocketboy

I'd have to draw a picture to show what I did. I did remove the entire transom. I still have some permanent repairs to make, some of the fiberglassing isn't finished. My season will be over in a couple of weeks, then I can get to work painting the hull and finishing the interior.
 

rocketboy52

Cadet
Joined
Mar 21, 2006
Messages
26
Re: Hey Rocketboy

Gspig,
Well after chaning two jobs and moving 70 miles away, I finially got some work done on the winner this past weekend. I tried to find the message where you detailed your transom rebuild, but I didn't have time to go through all your messages to find it. I have dug out all the wood and cut open the bunks. I also removed the last 12 inches of the stringers, so I'll have to rebuild that too.

I went to the local Home depot to price out the ply they have availible. If I use the Sea cast system, I will most likley need to make a mold and lay the transom up on the garage floor and then bond it into place. I'm not sure that it will be worth the extra work. Right now I'm leaning towards replacing the wood and sealing her up nice and tight. I'm not sure which wood to use though. "Marine Grade" from aircraft spruce is super pricey. I'm thinking an out door cert no void plywood may be the route to go. Do you have any input on the type of wood I should use? Have you done any work to your boat lately?
 

studlymandingo

Commander
Joined
Mar 22, 2006
Messages
2,716
Re: Hey Rocketboy

Marine Grade is unnecessary, could actually cause some problems with stainless hardware mounted to it. Go with the outdoor ply.​
 

gspig

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
Messages
409
Re: Hey Rocketboy

Actually, I used exterior grade plywood, 2 layers of 3/4". Coated with resin and dried before I did normal lay-up work.
My boat is still under its winter blanket. Work to be done: install lower shift cable, put seal on outdrive input shaft, paint hull. Gas prices are going to limit my boating this year. 30 gallons on the boat and 30 gallons in the truck makes for $100 each trip.
 

winner21

Cadet
Joined
May 9, 2007
Messages
12
Re: Hey Rocketboy

rocketboy
good luck on your project
i am replacing my transom also but i,m going to do it by sections... width wise and half way up transom then stagger the seams so that no joint will be unsupported im not sure if i said that right but its a general idea

Doug
 

rocketboy52

Cadet
Joined
Mar 21, 2006
Messages
26
Re: Hey Rocketboy

GSPig,
You still around? Still have your boat? I have a lot of Updates I need to post pictures of, but the long and the short of it is I have Glued, not 1, not 2 but 3, yes THREE transoms together, so Let you me tell you I am now an expert and this time I'm getting it done right! First time I bonded in a transom, I used Home depot exterior grade plywood. I tried to vacuum bag the transom into the back of the boat, but couldn't hold a vacuum, and the transom was a poor fit and poorly laminated. Scratch $100 of wood and $100 of west systems, before the epoxy set up, with no suck on the bag, I pulled it out and cut it up for firewood.

2nd time, I was reading on one of the repar forums about using water resistant Okume, with is plywood usually used for laminating door skins. I bonded 7 sheets of .23" thick stuff to get the thickness I needed, and then bonded in the boat using a clamp set of long carriage bolts and 2 x 4. The clamps put a good squeeze on the transom but a couple days after the bond, it rained and I got a foot of water in the boat with no drain plug hole drilled. After the rain left I drilled a drain plug and noticed the wood was mighty soft so I reached down and pulled at the bottom edge of the transom, and the wood totally delamed with about 50lbs of force. Pissed, I laminated a test panel of the same skins together that were left over scrap and through it in a bucket of water and let it soak for a week. I could pull the wood plies apart by hand very easily. Moral of the story, don't use chinese made, "Water resitant" Okume from Home depot. The only bond lines that stayed together were the ones I did with west systems epoxy.

After the 2nd failed attempt, I lost the will to work on the project for a year. I finally bit the bullet and found a plywood distributor in the San Fernando Valley that deals all plywood grades including marine grade. I bought three 4' x 8' sheets, two .75" thick and one .25" thick. I cut the transom shape a few weeks ago, and bonded them at work last week. As soon as I get some warm weather I will try to bond in the Transom a thrid time. If I fail thsi time, I'm going to part the boat out for parts and go buy another boat. Currently, I'm excited about getting it right this time, and with the right wood, I'm excited to actually have a robust transom. Let me know how you are doing and whats up. I'll try to post some pictures of the boat in its latest stage in the next few days.
Cheers!
 

rocketboy52

Cadet
Joined
Mar 21, 2006
Messages
26
Re: Hey Rocketboy

http://transomrepair.com/zk this site makes transom repair easier

Hey Jethros,
I actually considered using sea cast when I first strarted the transom rebuild, but the because the inboard outboard configuration of my boat, I need a 2" thick transom. The volume of seacast needed would be over $700 in price. I would also have to make a mould, and cast the transom flat if I wanted to do the whole transom. After finding marine grade plywood, I think it will be better then new. Afterall the whole reason the transom got rotten was that the Previous owner hit something with the outdrive that cracked the inner transom plate and broke the seal of the outdrive to the hull. He "repaired" it by putting a large bilge pump in and ran the boat until one time he got enough water in the bilge that it killed the low mounted starter, and then the boat sat for years.

I plan on "potting" the mounting bolt holes with filled epoxy so that even if the transom mount leaks, the transom will be sealed. I'll also pot all mounting hardware and the motor cut out so that the transom stays sealed. The marine grade ply wood glue is much more resistant to delamination issues as well, so we'll see how this goes.
 
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