Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

I paid him to bore and hone the cylinders, so I hope he did both. Bore and Hone block for $350 is written on the invoice. I also looked up the part # for the pistons, and it says they are .030 over. I guess I'll put a piston out, check the ring end gap and measure the bore. If it's not 4.030, I'll call him. I'll also get a bronze tipped fuel pump rod.

You checked the part number on the rings, right?

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

I'm not at home so I can't check the boxes, but the part #'s on the invoice indicates that both the pistons and rings are .030 over. I was worried because I remember glancing at the box and seeing 4.000 on the label. I'll check as soon as I get home (probably Saturday).

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project


http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0808_383_stroker_small_block_chevy/viewall.html

There is somewhat of reference point

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0808_383_stroker_small_block_chevy/viewall.html

There is somewhat of reference point

Thanks for the link. The article is actually really interesting. I didn't get home this weekend to measure my ring end gap or bore size. I'm out for winter break on Friday - it will be the first thing I do when I get home.

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Finally made it home today and I went out and checked a few things. First, the pistons are in fact .030 over, as shown in the picture below. I'll pull one out and check the ring end gap today or tomorrow.

Here is a picture of the rust on the deck I was talking about. I just went at it with some WD40 a minute ago and it didn't take any of it off. The WD40 was pretty old but I doubt thats an issue. Any suggestions for what to do about this? When I run my finger over it I cant even feel that its there.

Here's the stamp on the piston:

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

It appears to be surface rust from moister or sweat....just cover it up with something that breaths and keep a little oil on it. Be sure to clean any oil off the deck prior to installing head gaskets, that goes for intake as well.
I would make a habit of storing your parts somewhere else. Ive seen one dropped washer cause a lot of misery.
For sure check the end gaps on the rings !!!
I know i keep beating this horse but if you were following a good assembly guide you would have done this already. Now you have to go backwards. No big deal, all part of the process.

Just wait till you fire something up that you assembled. A great feeling, especially the first one.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Finally made it home today and I went out and checked a few things. First, the pistons are in fact .030 over, as shown in the picture below. I'll pull one out and check the ring end gap today or tomorrow.

Here is a picture of the rust on the deck I was talking about. I just went at it with some WD40 a minute ago and it didn't take any of it off. The WD40 was pretty old but I doubt thats an issue. Any suggestions for what to do about this? When I run my finger over it I cant even feel that its there.

IMHO the little bit of rust on the deck is a non-issue. Just keep the deck lathered up with WD or grease so it doesn't go any further.

You know how to properly check ring gap right? Pull the rings off the selected piston. Take one ring, and place it in the bore, than slide it down the bore with the piston upside down (this will center/square it correctly so the ring is not tilted). Take a visual of what you have. Chances are good that if it is a 4.00 ring that you put in the 4.030 bore, you're going to notice it fairly quick. If it looks pretty kosher, measure the ring gap with your feeler gauge.

BTW did you cross reference the PN on the box your rings came in?

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

It appears to be surface rust from moister or sweat....just cover it up with something that breaths and keep a little oil on it. Be sure to clean any oil off the deck prior to installing head gaskets, that goes for intake as well.
I would make a habit of storing your parts somewhere else. Ive seen one dropped washer cause a lot of misery.
For sure check the end gaps on the rings !!!
I know i keep beating this horse but if you were following a good assembly guide you would have done this already. Now you have to go backwards. No big deal, all part of the process.

Just wait till you fire something up that you assembled. A great feeling, especially the first one.

Alright, I'll cover it with some oil and not worry about it. I'll also keep other parts off of the block - definitely a good thing to do. As for the assembly guide, the only reason I haven't been following it so far is because the builder I am working with told me that he already checked all my clearances for me and that I didn't have to do it. I'm going to start following everything in the assembly guide now. I'll check the ring gaps tomorrow morning. I'll probably start using the Clevite red assembly lube as well. I can't wait to fire this thing up for the first time.

IMHO the little bit of rust on the deck is a non-issue. Just keep the deck lathered up with WD or grease so it doesn't go any further.

You know how to properly check ring gap right? Pull the rings off the selected piston. Take one ring, and place it in the bore, than slide it down the bore with the piston upside down (this will center/square it correctly so the ring is not tilted). Take a visual of what you have. Chances are good that if it is a 4.00 ring that you put in the 4.030 bore, you're going to notice it fairly quick. If it looks pretty kosher, measure the ring gap with your feeler gauge.

BTW did you cross reference the PN on the box your rings came in?

I'll definitely take some pictures of the ring gaps when I do it tomorrow. Unfortunately the box for the rings was thrown away while I was at school, so the only part # I have to go on is the one on the invoice, which indicates 4.030 rings.

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

I just finished measuring the ring gaps for the #1 cylinder. The top ring was .022 and the second ring was .021. I remember the machinist said that the rings he gave me would have a slightly larger gap which is good for a marine engine. Do those numbers sound about right? If not, too high or too low? Here are some pictures of the gaps:

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Standard ring gap for a 1986 Chevrolet truck engine (K20 truck) as per Mitchell On Demand Is;

.010-.020 for the top ring / .010-.025 for the second ring.

You're more or less in the ball park. .002 over isn't going to make a huge difference. At least you know he gave you the right rings.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

My limited experience puts .022 just about right. most marine engines are about .005 - .007 /inch of bore.

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Perfect - thank you both for the help. Good to know that I have the right rings in there. I actually drove up to the machine shop today to pick up my vortec heads - they look great, and they are sitting in the garage with the Air Gap intake that just came in. Everything has been painted and is drying now. I'll post some pictures when they're finished. I also brought the cam and timing chain back and he had no problem exchanging them for the right parts. He said that he sometimes uses a brass piece in between the cam gear and block to make the factory roller cam work with the non-roller block, but if that doesn't work he will return it to Comp Cams and get the retro fit cam.

School is out Friday for break, and on Monday I'll be able to get to assembling all the parts. I'll have all the pieces by then so it should be smooth sailing from here (hopefully).

 

[John_S]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

FWIW: Specs from mercruiser SM's (17 & Racing 7):

350 non-vortec: top 0.010-0.020, 2nd 0.010-0.025
350 vortec: top 0.010-0.020, 2nd 0.018-0.026
377 Black Scorpion (vortec): top 0.016-0.026, 2nd 0.016-0.026

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Are you clocking your ring gaps??

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

FWIW: Specs from mercruiser SM's (17 & Racing 7):

350 non-vortec: top 0.010-0.020, 2nd 0.010-0.025
350 vortec: top 0.010-0.020, 2nd 0.018-0.026
377 Black Scorpion (vortec): top 0.016-0.026, 2nd 0.016-0.026

Looks like I'm within spec for both. Thanks John.

Are you clocking your ring gaps??

I set the top ring and second ring gaps 180 degrees apart, the oil rail ring gap the same as the top ring, and the 2 smaller oil rings 30 degrees left and right of the oil rail ring. That was what the machinist said to do. One of the videos I watched said to set the 2 smaller oil rings 30 degrees left and right of the 2nd ring instead of the oil rail ring, and others said that they don't really matter, so I just did it by what the machinist recommended.

 

[John_S]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

And I think the more equivelent is the Black Scorpion which should be closer to perfomance of your 383 and you are right in the middle of that spec.

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

And I think the more equivelent is the Black Scorpion which should be closer to perfomance of your 383 and you are right in the middle of that spec.

Perfect. I'm glad that everything is back on track.

Now for a new question - I want to install the rear main seal and am wondering if I should use any type of silicone sealer between the actual 1-piece seal and the housing. I've watched some assembly videos in which the builder doesn't not use any sealant, and read in some places that you should use a sealant. Is it necessary? Better yet, will it be beneficial to use a sealant?

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Perfect. I'm glad that everything is back on track.

Now for a new question - I want to install the rear main seal and am wondering if I should use any type of silicone sealer between the actual 1-piece seal and the housing. I've watched some assembly videos in which the builder doesn't not use any sealant, and read in some places that you should use a sealant. Is it necessary? Better yet, will it be beneficial to use a sealant?

No sealant needed. Put a little grease on the lip of the seal (where it touches the crank), and evenly seat the seal in the RMS carrier. If you want to get fancy, GM issued a SST that threads into a couple of holes (for the flywheel/flexplate) on the crank and has a large knob that you twist to evenly seat the RMS with out damaging it.

Looks like this ;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KENT-MOORE-..._Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f10ad26d7

Only it needs to be specifically for the 4.3L/5.0L/5.7L 1 piece RMS

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

No sealant needed. Put a little grease on the lip of the seal (where it touches the crank), and evenly seat the seal in the RMS carrier. If you want to get fancy, GM issued a SST that threads into a couple of holes (for the flywheel/flexplate) on the crank and has a large knob that you twist to evenly seat the RMS with out damaging it.

Looks like this ;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KENT-MOORE-..._Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f10ad26d7

Only it needs to be specifically for the 4.3L/5.0L/5.7L 1 piece RMS

Thanks for the reply. Those tools look expensive- I saw them upwards of $75 online. I think I'll probably try using the block of wood like the builder did in the DVD I watched. Does it matter what kind of grease I use on the lip? I have white lithium grease, clevite red assembly lube, white assembly grease, and oil. In case this affects the answer, I probably won't be able to start the motor for a month or 2 until it gets warmer out here and we can turn the outside water back on.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Does it matter what kind of grease I use on the lip? I have white lithium grease, clevite red assembly lube, white assembly grease, and oil.

Take your pick... I usually just use white lithium or heavy weight engine oil. Basically just need something there to lube the seal until the regular engine oil joins the party.