Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

you can buy timing tape for a few bucks from summit, jegs, or any speed shop. you just need the diameter of you ballancer.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8985/

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

The tape works well if it stays on. I like the dial back lights as you never have to worry about the tape on yours or anyone's you happen to be tuning on. Of course if your friends are anything like mine you will have it loaned out half the time. LOL

Summit has three listed... Looks like the equus is the only one that will work on multiple spark (MSD box) if you think you might have a need for that in the future.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...Advance-Analog-Dial-Included/Yes/?Ns=Rank|Asc

Your local Sears will also have a couple if you can't wait.

P.S.
We went to the lake and got home late. I watched game 7 on the DVR. Our Celtics gave em hell.
Should be an entertaining final series.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

The original tape from Volvo is still on my damper 24 years later.

 

[John_S]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

one your jetting is right and your propped somewhere close, advance your total timing 2 degrees at a time until your wot throttle max speed doesn't increase any more or it pings. back off 2 degrees for safe measure. Your boat is essentially a waterbrake dyno... and as long as the conditions are the same, will tell you what is happening with horsepower when you make changes - and in this case where your sweet spot is for total timing. Every engine likes a little more or less, what does it matter what it really is so long as it is in the right place? btw. I wish you had stayed with the Tbolt IV ignition - they're realy hard to beat. I didn't pick up ANY power when I switched to a crane cd box for a while... and am back to running the original ignition

You should make sure your wot jetting and timing is good before making final prop changes. Similiar to how WCA described the way to adjust for wot timing, it is similiar to the 2ndary jetting. Keep going 2 steps richer until you have no increase, and then back 1-2 steps off. Follow the Edelbrock manual. 2ndary adjustment is about the last item to do.

You currect ignition probably has more adjustment than a T5 or T4 module. If it has weights and springs, it will allow for curve adjustments that are not possible with the thunderbolt. When you do both the wot carb and timing tests, make sure you are running with the same octane you plan to always run with.

An Actron Advance Timing light should be available at most Sears and automotive stores.

How have your plugs been looking? Need to be checking them regularly, until you are all dialed in, to make sure you are not running lean.

 

[wca_tim]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

good point regarding fuel mixture - especially watching plugs. I tend to run a little fat as a matter of habit at least until I get everything close to where I want it. as an aside, the next time I set one up from scratch, I'm making an exhaust spacer with a bung in it to temporarily install a wideband O2 sensor - saved a huge amount of time and energy on a recent non-marine project.

As long as you're running the Edelbrock carb (assuming that I'm not remembering incorrectly, 750 cfm model 1410), the jetting shouldn't be too far off out of the box. I can look and see what I ran in that carb at on mine before swapping heads. The procedure that edelbrock's instruction manual details seems complicated, but works well. if you're like me it may be tough to get rid of the off-idle lean spot. if so, try different springs. if you're running a different carb, sorry about the brain fart... I'm too lazy to read back through everything. btw. I crapped up my holley with bad gas last year and swapped the carb to get back on the water. The edelbrock I had sitting in a box in the garage, still works like a champ... Don't let anyone tell you they're not a good carb - when set up properly, they work just fine. I do get some perfoamance advantage with the holley, proform body, quick fuel base and bowls, modified metering blocks, etc... but I'm not sure that would be the case with a straight holley carb including the choke tower, etc...

Just some thoughts, hope this is helpful. cheers

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

The plugs look good so far - the engine doesn't appear to be running lean. The timing tape is only $5 on Summit and the timing light is something like $90, so I am going to try the tape first. If I can't get it right with the tape then I will invest in a new timing light.

I've never changed jets on a carb. How hard is it to do, and how will I know when I get it running right? I assume just use the same process as above - change them until I don't get any more RPM's and then put in the next size down for safety? Also can somebody possibly give me a link to a set of jets that will work with my Edelbrock 1410 carb?

I also came across a 1" square bore 4 hole spacer. Would it have any impact putting it on the engine? Some quick research seems to show that it may hurt mid-range torque but could give me a boost in the top end power. Any thoughts on that?

My new Stiletto Prop came in yesterday (from the picture above). Unfortunately it's raining today so I have to wait until tomorrow to go test it out. Can't wait to see how it's going to perform.

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

The plugs look good so far - the engine doesn't appear to be running lean. The timing tape is only $5 on Summit and the timing light is something like $90, so I am going to try the tape first. If I can't get it right with the tape then I will invest in a new timing light.

I've never changed jets on a carb. How hard is it to do, and how will I know when I get it running right? I assume just use the same process as above - change them until I don't get any more RPM's and then put in the next size down for safety? Also can somebody possibly give me a link to a set of jets that will work with my Edelbrock 1410 carb?

I also came across a 1" square bore 4 hole spacer. Would it have any impact putting it on the engine? Some quick research seems to show that it may hurt mid-range torque but could give me a boost in the top end power. Any thoughts on that?

My new Stiletto Prop came in yesterday (from the picture above). Unfortunately it's raining today so I have to wait until tomorrow to go test it out. Can't wait to see how it's going to perform.

Jets and such here...

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/access_calibrate.shtml


The spacers generally do exactly as you stated. hurt low end, gain on top. Open ones generally work better.

Interesting dyno pulls. They use a spacer in the very end.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2DvnoHWagk&feature=relmfu

Anxiously awaiting prop results...

 

[John_S]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

The plugs look good so far - the engine doesn't appear to be running lean. The timing tape is only $5 on Summit and the timing light is something like $90, so I am going to try the tape first. If I can't get it right with the tape then I will invest in a new timing light.

I've never changed jets on a carb. How hard is it to do, and how will I know when I get it running right? I assume just use the same process as above - change them until I don't get any more RPM's and then put in the next size down for safety? Also can somebody possibly give me a link to a set of jets that will work with my Edelbrock 1410 carb?

I also came across a 1" square bore 4 hole spacer. Would it have any impact putting it on the engine? Some quick research seems to show that it may hurt mid-range torque but could give me a boost in the top end power. Any thoughts on that?

My new Stiletto Prop came in yesterday (from the picture above). Unfortunately it's raining today so I have to wait until tomorrow to go test it out. Can't wait to see how it's going to perform.

The primary jets, rods, and springs, are easy to access and change on that edelbrock. The 2ndary jets are more difficult. The top of the carb has to come off. The tuning guide that came with the carb will explain in very good detail.

I forgot which intake you went with, rpm or rpm air gap? The air gap has a cut-out between the two plenums, and four hole spacers don't work well with that. If you have the rpm that has completly isolated plenums, a 4 hole might provide a little benefit.

I use a 1" four hole on my vortec performer. I can't say it is a night and day difference, but thnk it did provide some. I wouldn't go with a phenolic type. I tried one of those, but had carb icing problems when the humidity and evening temp drops. The aluminum one conducts just enough heat to prevent it.

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

$50 for the set of jets... and a lot of small parts that I am afraid to touch and potentially mess up my brand new carburetor. If the stock jetting is close to correct then I may just stick with it for now.. Or at least until I watch all of the videos on Edelbrock's website and read the directions 20 times over.

I believe the spacer I have is the phenolic type, and it has 4 holes. Could it hurt to throw it on there and see what happens? If it doesn't work well I just take it off. I also don't use the boat unless it's 70+ outside.. if that makes a difference? I'm also pretty sure I could run over to Autozone and pick up an open aluminum spacer for somewhere around $30.

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

$50 for the set of jets... and a lot of small parts that I am afraid to touch and potentially mess up my brand new carburetor. If the stock jetting is close to correct then I may just stick with it for now.. Or at least until I watch all of the videos on Edelbrock's website and read the directions 20 times over.

I believe the spacer I have is the phenolic type, and it has 4 holes. Could it hurt to throw it on there and see what happens? If it doesn't work well I just take it off. I also don't use the boat unless it's 70+ outside.. if that makes a difference? I'm also pretty sure I could run over to Autozone and pick up an open aluminum spacer for somewhere around $30.

Rather than nickle and dime yourself...

Call these guys... Everyone i know who has one, love's them. You might find one used on racingjunk.com or something. But they set them up custom for your application.

http://www.prosystemsracing.com/proseries4150.html

I have one, fortunately i got it on a motor i bought from a friend and didn't have to pay $650.00 for it. It has 4 corner idle, dog leg undercut boosters, fully adjustable air bleeds, all the tricks. Its so smooth you would think its fuel injected.

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Went to take the boat out and try out the new prop and play with the timing on Thursday.. and ran into huge problems.

I went to start the engine and let it run for about 5 minutes, and I looked at the oil pressure gauge and noticed it was flickering. I assumed the sender wire was hitting some metal or something and just shorting out because that happened with the temperature gauge in the past. I went to the back of the boat to find massive amounts of oil sitting in the bilge, so immediately turned the engine off. I checked the dipstick and the oil level was below the "add" line. I couldn't believe it.

So obviously the engine is leaking oil. I couldn't figure out where or how. I went down to the local auto parts store and picked up some synthetic oil to run just so I could and find the leak. I put the oil in, started the motor, and looked around for 15 mintues or so. Couldn't find a leak anywhere. I bumped it up to 2500-3000 rpm and looked again, still no leak in sight. Then I figured maybe the engine needs to be under a load to see it. I took a short ride and when i got back, more oil had leaked, but again there was no place I could find a trail. I turned the motor off and went home. Thinking about it now, I have a feeling the oil was leaking the last time i used the boat, which was on Monday. But I didn't notice until Thursday.

So the question now becomes... where on earth could it be coming from, and what to do about it? It's definitely engine oil, and it's leaking into the bilge from somewhere. I have about 10 hours on the motor, and it ran fine during break in and such. Are there any places it could be leaking where it would be really hard to notice? I am worried that something like the rear main seal is gone and the motor will have to come out. I would really appreciate any guesses/theories/anything at this point.

 

[KyHeadhunter1]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Oh man, that s*cks! My experience is almost all automotive, but feel around the back of your oil pan. I am thinking rear main seal if it only leaks under a load, and PLEASE believe me, I REALLY hope I'm wrong!!!

 

[funk6294]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Did you use a one piece oil pan gasket or did you use the cork one with the rubber pieces that go around the the front and backs? If you used the multi piece cork gasket make sure you put the cork rail gaskets down first and then the rubber end pieces. If you did this backwards it will leak like crazy.

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Well....
Sorry to see you having issues. I guess if you really have no clues as to where it is coming from i would clean the engine and the bilge really good! Go to Auto Zone or your local parts store and get some black light dye. Add it to the oil and go make it leak. Use a black light bulb (which you can buy at hobbie lobby for cheap) in a drop light. And see if you can trace it.

Running WOT can move a lot of oil out of a little hole. If memory is serving me correct you have a one piece pan gasket. They dont leak much. Id be inclined to guess it might be the intake manifold surface on the back top of the block. Did you use the rubber gaskets here? Its best to toss the gaskets and use a large bead of silicone.

Some thing else to check is the oil filter. Ive seen folks change the filter and wind up with the rubber o ring stuck to the block, only to install a new filter with a new o ring right on top of it. They will leak between the o rings.

As always good luck!

 

[greg82255]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Did you use a one piece oil pan gasket or did you use the cork one with the rubber pieces that go around the the front and backs? If you used the multi piece cork gasket make sure you put the cork rail gaskets down first and then the rubber end pieces. If you did this backwards it will leak like crazy.

I actually did use a 1-piece rubber oil pan gasket. I checked all around the oil pan and couldn't find a leak.

Well....
Sorry to see you having issues. I guess if you really have no clues as to where it is coming from i would clean the engine and the bilge really good! Go to Auto Zone or your local parts store and get some black light dye. Add it to the oil and go make it leak. Use a black light bulb (which you can buy at hobbie lobby for cheap) in a drop light. And see if you can trace it.

Running WOT can move a lot of oil out of a little hole. If memory is serving me correct you have a one piece pan gasket. They dont leak much. Id be inclined to guess it might be the intake manifold surface on the back top of the block. Did you use the rubber gaskets here? Its best to toss the gaskets and use a large bead of silicone.

Some thing else to check is the oil filter. Ive seen folks change the filter and wind up with the rubber o ring stuck to the block, only to install a new filter with a new o ring right on top of it. They will leak between the o rings.

As always good luck!

Thanks Joe. I'm pulling the boat tomorrow and the first thing I plan to do is clean everything up. I followed Edelbrock's instructions with the intake manifold. I used a large bead of silicone on the front and rear mating surfaces. I took a look at the oil filter and it was pretty dry - no oil around it that I could find, but I'll replace it as cheap insurance and check for a second rubber ring. I also checked the drain screw at the bottom of the oil pan and found nothing.

Here's one thing that I did do that I just thought of today... When I replaced the rocker arms and pushrods, instead of using the valve cover gaskets, I ran a bead of black RTV silicone where the gasket should have gone, and just used that as a sealant. The valve cover gaskets were smaller than the valve covers and I had to stretch them to get them to fit, and it was a pain so I just went with the sealant. I noticed there may have been a slight drip from that, but I continued looking for a bigger leak and found nothing. Can a ever so slight drip turn into 4 quarts sitting in the bilge? in a matter of minutes? Thinking about it, lots of oil gets pumped to those rockers at WOT, and probably develops a pool of oil in the top of that head, and with the bow angled up, that pool of oil is pushed toward the rear of the head, which is where the slight drip was coming from. I just don't see how that drip could turn into a massive leak - there's no pressure build up there.

If it were the rear main seal, any way I could check without pulling the entire thing apart? And if so, isn't that covered under warranty or something?

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

I actually did use a 1-piece rubber oil pan gasket. I checked all around the oil pan and couldn't find a leak.



Thanks Joe. I'm pulling the boat tomorrow and the first thing I plan to do is clean everything up. I followed Edelbrock's instructions with the intake manifold. I used a large bead of silicone on the front and rear mating surfaces. I took a look at the oil filter and it was pretty dry - no oil around it that I could find, but I'll replace it as cheap insurance and check for a second rubber ring. I also checked the drain screw at the bottom of the oil pan and found nothing.

Here's one thing that I did do that I just thought of today... When I replaced the rocker arms and pushrods, instead of using the valve cover gaskets, I ran a bead of black RTV silicone where the gasket should have gone, and just used that as a sealant. The valve cover gaskets were smaller than the valve covers and I had to stretch them to get them to fit, and it was a pain so I just went with the sealant. I noticed there may have been a slight drip from that, but I continued looking for a bigger leak and found nothing. Can a ever so slight drip turn into 4 quarts sitting in the bilge? in a matter of minutes? Thinking about it, lots of oil gets pumped to those rockers at WOT, and probably develops a pool of oil in the top of that head, and with the bow angled up, that pool of oil is pushed toward the rear of the head, which is where the slight drip was coming from. I just don't see how that drip could turn into a massive leak - there's no pressure build up there.

If it were the rear main seal, any way I could check without pulling the entire thing apart? And if so, isn't that covered under warranty or something?

Yea you might be on to something with the valve cover gaskets id replace them for sure. The GM gaskets always seem to to be the best fit on those covers. The others are hit/miss.

Ive never had a one piece rear main seal leak. That was a huge improvement for gm, i wouldn't worry about that just yet. Take a good look at the front seal and at the timing cover to make sure the thrust bearing didn't wear a hole in it or something. Get a mirror and look at the rear of the manifold.

It leaked out four quarts???

Might be a pressurized leak somewhere. Did you use sealer on the threaded plugs at the rear of the block around the cam bore, and tighten them real good! Let me look at a block at the shop tomorrow and get all of the pressure port locations from a late model block. Ill get back to yea.

Warranty.... That's a good one, maybe the guy that assembled it will fix it for you! LOL

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

I would go with the reusable valvecover gaskets. I have had really good luck with ROL or Fel-Pro.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

That engine leaked 4 quarts...You dont have a leak its called a hemorage. If it came from the valve cover's it could be possible but how could you not know that.

 

[Alwhite00]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

I would definately put gaskets on the valve covers (Fel-Pro) Valve covers is no place for RTV - I would guess you had a failure at the valve cover.

LK

 

[John_S]

Re: Here We Go: My 383 Stroker Winter Project

Between the fill and full line, is usually 1 qt. One qt in the bilge will look like allot. From the descriptions, I'd go with the valve cover leak. If not, and can't find it from any oil trail, Joe's method sounds like it will nail it.

I take it, your engine was between sbc transitions. A non-roller ready block, is usually a 2 pc rear main seal.