here comes the saw

[Roanld Rzepkowski]

I'm starting my first project boat.... 1988 hydrasports fish and ski. motor's fine but the floor and floor supports or totally rotten, not sure on the transom yet. Here's my thought, since I'm not into fishing, and this is basically a twin console bass layout, couldn't I take this down to the hull and rebuild as a center console? I'd rather have storage and seats instead of dual areated live wells, Looks like both consoles and the entire upper deck are one piece. all the wood is under this. anyone got a good book on fiberglass work? anyone took on a project like this? thanks

 

[JB]

Re: here comes the saw

Sounds like it could be done, Grizz.<br /><br />Watch out for changing the hull rigidity, you could end up with a raft.<br /><br />Good luck.

 

[crab bait]

Re: here comes the saw

i see no reason why this couldn't be done.. the placement of the console would be up to your disgration... if'n it looks doable it is doable... if'n it looks right,, it is right..<br /><br />it'll be a project with snakes,, cause you'll be openin' up a BIG can-o-worms..<br /><br />glen-l marine .com has very good books & videos on buildin', & glassin'..<br /><br />good luck...

 

[Roanld Rzepkowski]

Re: here comes the saw

what's the best type of saw to use? saws all? would a chainsaw work? how much overhang should I leave around the top? I'm ripping out all the old wiring and starting from scratch (I'll reuse what's still in good order) 'course I won't need to rewire for any of the fishing gear. (simple wiring motor, lights, horn, and tunes)

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: here comes the saw

Go for it Grizz. In the book, Runabout Renovation, Anderson talks about using sawsall, chainsaw and angle grinder to cut old floors and other components out. He recommends cutting out what you don't want in manageable "panels" so you don't overstress whatever tool you use. I would think a chainsaw would really put up some glass dust...nasty, nasty, nasty stuff. when I do my runabout, I'm going to try the angle grinder to cut out the old flooring.

 

[Bondo]

Re: here comes the saw

I Think you'll find, that Fiberglass doesn't Cut, you'll have to grind it... it'll Dull a saw blade in a 1/4".... a Big grinder, or demo-saw works Real Well.... smaller cuts can be made with a cut-off wheel.. or a solid carbide bit...

 

[snapperbait]

Re: here comes the saw

Grizz... If you find that you need to use a saw (sawsall, jig saw, ect.)of some sort, "Bi-Metal" blades will last for a fair amount of time...<br /><br />You'll probably find that you'll be needing a combination of tools like the sawsall and angle grinder....

 

[crab bait]

Re: here comes the saw

these guys bring up a good point,, dullin' blades... i've seen ,, a saws=all blade made for fiberglass, an concrete.. it's not a sawtooth blade .. but more of a 'carbide rasp' type...

 

[Hawkeye1]

Re: here comes the saw

I found a skill saw with a regular blade worked just fine. I cut out 12' x 7' floor in about 6 sections with no problems. Set the blade to whatever the floor thickness is and go to town. Dont have to worry about cutting something you dont want to with the skill saw. I also used a carbide coated disk about 2" around in a high speed 1/4" die grinder that worked real well on FG. WOuld do much with the wood core.

 

[SCO]

Re: here comes the saw

I cut mine out with a skill saw. Maybe thats why it burns wood now instead if sawing! It worked ok because the glass on top of my floor was thin. It worked to my advantage because I left a lip all around and used that lip to hold up the new floor. To do the job right though you may choose to grind out the old lip anyway including a fiberglass putty lip that the floor plywood was originally set on by the manufacturer. MAybe cut out all but a 1 inch perimeter lip then grind through the floor cover glass around the edges of the floor then chisel out the old plywood to get to the old fiberglass lip (if there is one) that the plywood of the floor now sits on and rebuild on to that surface. YEa, thats the ticket. Whatever you do, wear long pants, shirt buttoned up and tuck pants into socks. Wear good mask and goggles. When through get into shower with everything on even tennis shoes, rinse it all out then into washing machine. Shake off and tiptoe when you first come in from the outside, and dont under any circumstance let your wife see you do this.

 

[SCO]

Re: here comes the saw

The skill saw was good for me because I set the depth of cut and confidently cut chunks of floor out. It didn't take long at all.

 

[outonbizniz]

Re: here comes the saw

Having completed a complete replacement of my transom, floor, and stringers...I found the best all purpose fiberglass/wood cutting tool to be the SuperDisk. I bought one for my 4.5" grinder and used it to do all my fiberglass cutting AND grinding. I went through 3 of them on the whole project. But, they only cost about $10 at Home Depot!! And, with a 2 year guarantee I only paid for the first one!

 

[SeaMasterZ@aol.com]

Re: here comes the saw

I am going to Delaware tomorrow to assess the damages done to Chugboat Annie, the 18 Crestliner, but I am sure there is at least one bad spot that needs replacement ... that being said, some hacking is going to be required ... now, here is my thought, my considered opinion if you will ... one of the relics from my mechanic past is a three horse 220 Volt thumper of a compressor, the best sears made in portable compressor at the time, somewhere around 85 ... which should have the ummmph to run a pneumatic recip saw.<br /><br />why use air?<br /><br />here is that considered opinion ... the reason that everyone dreads this so much is cause of all the dust and assorted airborne nasties wafting about ... if you were to run water on the cut site, you would keep the carbide blade cool and clear, and there is zero shock hazard ... I wouldnt go to town with a Sawz All even if it was hooked to a GFI box!<br /><br />would the soaking take a long time to dry so as to get on with the glassing? or does it soak in and stay there a good long while?<br /><br />thanks for any thoughts on this matter

 

[JasonJ]

Re: here comes the saw

When I gutted my project down to the hull, I cleaned the hull out with an aggressive cleaner and hosed it out and let it dry. I had already ground all surfaces with the angle grinder, so once it was dry and I was ready to glass, I whiped the whole thing down with acetone, and all was good. I am a big fan of the 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with metal cuttoff wheel. It goes through the glass like butter so you have to be carefull, and it does throw dust, but it works out in the end...

 

[evin300]

Re: here comes the saw

Its chainsaw time! Lets put it this way, would you rather grind the glass and turn it to a fine powder? Use a skill saw blade, and create a fine dust? Do you feel comfortable using such powerful cutting tools next to your hull?<br /><br />Fiberglass tames a chainsaw down to a very managable tool, remember, a chainsaw blade does not create dust, but chips. (do expect some dust though) I cut out all of my floor right where it meets the hull. (you cut through the glass bridging) <br /><br />Believe me, it doesnt cut fiberglass like a knife through butter, like it does wood, in fact when you do hit the hull with the blade, it will make a different sound, that is distinct, cause it really doesnt like to cut through solid fiberglass, as some may think.<br /><br />Do a search on the subject, use caution, and remember that any chainsaw can kick back on you, so get your head out of the way!

 

[NathanY]

Re: here comes the saw

If you are cutting fiberglass, regardless of your method, you will need a mask. Go to Walmart and buy you a paper mask for $4.95 and soak it with water and put it on. The water will trap any dust that might otherwise pass through the mask. Also, you could put some masking tape down where you intend to cut, and this will help with the chip and such from flying around.