Re: help wiring my flat bottm!
Since you likely don't have a console to house anything, you need to build a housing of some sort from a plastic or metal box to house the switches and connectors. Go to any of the boat manufacturer internet sites and look at the TILLER STEERED boats for ideas on how to mount this stuff. Then look at the Generic wiring diagram at the top of this page for wiring diagrams. Ignore what you don't need and use what you do. Radio Shack stores can supply any style connector you need for the live well. Any sporting good store can provide the two prong plug/receptacle for your trolling motor. The same store can provide the bow and stern navigation lights. My suggestion would be to buy a switch panel WITHOUT a fuse or breaker system. Only you can determine the number of switches you need but if you use a six position fuse panel you would likely want at least four or six switches, even if you don't use them all at this time. Buy a separate fuse panel with about 6 fuse spaces. From the battery you run a pair of #10 wires (red & black) to the POS and NEG terminations on the fuse panel. From the fuse panel you run 16 gauge wire to the switch, then out of the switch to the device it controls. The ground wire from the devices ends up back at the ground bus on the fuse panel. Use a 20 amp breaker or fuse at the battery. The trolling motor takes a lot of power and must be wired directly to the battery -- NOT through the fuse panel. Again, you need a 40, 50, or 60 amp breaker at the battery to protect the troller wiring. That wire should be #8 minimum.
