Help shedding some weight off my rig.

[superbenk]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

Perhaps if the OP didn't want comments about the CRV he should have left that off the question & just asked the specific question he wanted answered ("Is this trailer wide enough for my boat?"). There was more information given & it has a very relavent bearing on the legality & safety of what he's trying to do so people commented on it.

The OP did get an answer about the width of the trailer (previous poster said he saw a big difference going to a wider axle).

 

[sutor623]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

The OP did get an answer about the width of the trailer (previous poster said he saw a big difference going to a wider axle).

Yes but does the frame have to be wider too? I can set the bunks to the same width as my current trailer, as well as same width axle. So the question is if where the leaf springs set is 7" narrower will that make a big difference?

 

[sutor623]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

while the aluminum trailer weighs 2-300# less than your current trailer, it doesnt have the 100#+ stuff on it to support the boat.

best your going to save going from the galvanized trailer to aluminum is about 100#. the aluminum trailer tubes are twice as thick to get the similar strength. this in turn only saves you 25-30% on the materials for the frame itself. if you take the hitch, wiring, axles, bunks, etc. off each trailer, your looking at only 100# delta between the two. Plus the new trailer is 6" narrower than the one you know works.

My suggestion, grab three bathroom scales, put your trailer on them, measure the weight. then take and put the next trailer on them with a pile of stuff the same weight as the bunks/rollers/etc. then verify the weights.

for 100#, I would want the wider trailer.

Cool, thanks for the reply.

 

[Chip Chester]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

+1 on weighing the trailers against each other, to see if the following effort is actually worthwhile...

Tippiness is mostly about center of gravity. The lower, the better. And the wider base you have under it, all the better too. So, if the capacities are similar, switching axles would be good. Switching tires might be good, if the current trailer has smaller diameter. (This goes completely against my usual bigger-is-better recommendations about wheel/tire diameter.) If the current trailer tires work for your load, road, and travel distance, and usual speeds, then put them on the new trailer also. Additionally, swapping springs may be in order if: A) they fit B) the rating is right and C) they are lower arched, as they appear to be... kinda hard to tell in the laden vs. un-laden pics. This will be some work, so measure both un-laden and choose the lowest.

Though it might require some fender surgery, and some additional clearance measurement, you might also flip the axle to the other side of the springs. Take that opportunity to replace your ubolts.

Then, make your bunk/roller design to keep the boat itself as low as is practical.

Don't forget to fill the tires with helium, too.

And good on ya for actually paying attention to what the ratings are.

Chip

 

[sutor623]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

And good on ya for actually paying attention to what the ratings are.

Chip

Yeah, thanks Chip. I am one of those guys that get told everyday "you can't do that". And yet here I am, built my own house and it's still standing, even through the 5.8 earthquake that we got here in Virginia last year. Point is, that this rig is in no way shape or form incapable of coming in a under my weight ratings. I purposely goat an aluminum hull, with one of the lightest 65hp motors ever made (2 stroke Merc, 228lbs.) and now have an aluminum trailer. I will put surge brakes on it, a tranny cooler, and make sure that my tires are always fresh and inflated. BUT, if this trailer isn't going to feel safe when driving, I am totally defeating the purpose.

 

[KD4UPL]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

Is this a fact?

Hay Sutor, I see we're both in VA. I'm near Staunton, where are you?
You left out the work "tow" when you quoted me. Axle ratings and tire ratings are legally enforceable. Tow rating is not. Not that any cop or DOT would mess with a CRV pulling a small boat. I have yet to see a vehicle with it's tow rating stamped on it anywhere. How would any officer know what it was? Do they have every vehicle in every possible drive train configuration and it's respective tow rating memorized? I think not. Tire ratings are stamped right on the side of the tire. Axle ratings are on the door placard of the vehicle. I doubt your placard mentions towing.
I'm not suggesting that it's a good idea to tow very far over the rating but it won't get you a ticket.

 

[sublauxation]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

Definitely looks like you could use a bigger axle on the new trailer, that one looks pretty wimpy. If you can weld on new spring perches swapping axles wouldn't be hard but I'd guess that would make the old trailer hard to sell. New axles are pretty cheap. I'd definitely recommend going with the wider axle, but one concern would be that with a longer distance between the springs and the wheel it may be easier to bend, so definitely don't go with a light axle. The place I got my axle form does not have 2000lb axles set up for brakes. If you plan on putting those on you may have to move up to a 3500lb axle, but I'm not sure what else is out there. The actual narrower width of the new trailer should make absolutely no difference as long as the boat is strapped down tight.

 

[UncleWillie]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

The physics of the stability issue is the relationship between the width of the wheelbase to the height of the Center of Gravity(CG).

If you widen the wheelbase by 10%, but end up raising the CG by 11%, you are going to be worse off then when you started.

 

[sublauxation]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

I may be missing something but I don't see where CG will increase? The trailers look nearly identical in design. If height is a concern you could always move the axle above the springs instead of below, especially since you'll probably have to modify the fenders with a wider axle anyways. If you don't drive far you could always put shorter tires on the new one if height is an issue. Those roller bunks look to be pretty short, that may buy an extra inch or so.

 

[fishrdan]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

What year is your CRV?

I will put surge brakes on it, a tranny cooler............

I would also add a MagnaFine transmission filter while installing the tranny cooler. I checked and didn't see a servicable tranny filter available for the CRV's I checked, which didn't surprise me.

My 01' Accord (CRV built on the Accord platform, right?) didn't have a servicable transmission filter and it had tranny problems, common issue for the V6 accords. The only filter is an internal filter that's only accessible during rebuild. When I rebuilt the tranny the internal filter was completely plugged up and blown out.

Sooo, add the external tranny filter while installing the tranny cooler if you want to protect the tranny.

 

[sutor623]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

Hay Sutor, I see we're both in VA. I'm near Staunton, where are you?

I am in the Charlottesville area. Let me know if you wanna get up and hit some striper at Lake Anna!

Definitely looks like you could use a bigger axle on the new trailer, that one looks pretty wimpy. The actual narrower width of the new trailer should make absolutely no difference as long as the boat is strapped down tight.

Agreed. And thanks for the info. This makes me feel more comfortable about doing this.

The physics of the stability issue is the relationship between the width of the wheelbase to the height of the Center of Gravity(CG).

If you widen the wheelbase by 10%, but end up raising the CG by 11%, you are going to be worse off then when you started.

True, but hopefully I can just use a wider, yet lower leaf spring assembly.

What year is your CRV?



I would also add a MagnaFine transmission filter while installing the tranny cooler. I checked and didn't see a servicable tranny filter available for the CRV's I checked, which didn't surprise me.

My 01' Accord (CRV built on the Accord platform, right?) didn't have a servicable transmission filter and it had tranny problems, common issue for the V6 accords. The only filter is an internal filter that's only accessible during rebuild. When I rebuilt the tranny the internal filter was completely plugged up and blown out.

Sooo, add the external tranny filter while installing the tranny cooler if you want to protect the tranny.

Good info. I will definately make sure to get an inline trans filter. The V is a 2011.

 

[sutor623]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

best your going to save going from the galvanized trailer to aluminum is about 100#.

This is actually quite inaccurate. I weighed the trailer today and it rolls in at 520lbs. I was looking at the new(er) venture trailers and they have a 2800lb. capacity and only weigh 300lbs. So if I go with aluminum I will save 220lbs. of weight, which will be 10 gallons of gas and two batteries. So actually this will put me right where I need to be.

 

[Dozerlady]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

This is actually quite inaccurate. I weighed the trailer today and it rolls in at 520lbs. I was looking at the new(er) venture trailers and they have a 2800lb. capacity and only weigh 300lbs. So if I go with aluminum I will save 220lbs. of weight, which will be 10 gallons of gas and two batteries. So actually this will put me right where I need to be.

Just my 2 cents, aside from everything wrong with this entire thread... If you are going to need to add bunks, rollers, brakes, possibly a new axle and or tires, you could end up adding back that 220# you intend to save. Where is the gain? Not to mention adding an oil cooler to the vehicle, adding to it's weight, hence adding to the GCWR of the entire setup isn't going to give you spare weight for coolers, gas and batteries. Why not stick with the trailer you have and forget all that time, work, added expense and other nonsense if you are not willing to pull with a better vehicle? :facepalm:

 

[bnicov]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

Taking the weight out of the boat and putting it inside the vehicle is the same thing. Read towing capacity numbers carefully. 1500lbs is CARGO and WHATEVER IS BEING TOWED. You are close to the limit so be careful.

 

[sutor623]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

Just my 2 cents, aside from everything wrong with this entire thread... If you are going to need to add bunks, rollers, brakes, possibly a new axle and or tires, you could end up adding back that 220# you intend to save. Where is the gain? Not to mention adding an oil cooler to the vehicle, adding to it's weight, hence adding to the GCWR of the entire setup isn't going to give you spare weight for coolers, gas and batteries. Why not stick with the trailer you have and forget all that time, work, added expense and other nonsense if you are not willing to pull with a better vehicle? :facepalm:

Don't be facepalming me cadet . I bought a Loadrite trailer just the other day. It weighs 290lbs. That cuts off 230lbs. off of my load. My dry weight is now just over 1200lbs. This thing pulls my load, and stops it just fine. Now not only will it continue to do that, I will also be pulling UNDER the 1500lbs. capacity with a fully loaded boat. Gas, batteries, motors, coolers and whatever else I need to put on there. You want justify buying $40,000+ vehicles and getting 9 MPG go for it. My vehicle BRAND NEW was just over 20k and I get 20MPG towing. I strategically planned my entire package to be economical and useful. You just do you, Ima do me.

 

[sutor623]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

Taking the weight out of the boat and putting it inside the vehicle is the same thing. Read towing capacity numbers carefully. 1500lbs is CARGO and WHATEVER IS BEING TOWED. You are close to the limit so be careful.

The 1500lb. TOW capacity is just that. Tow capacity. So this statement is entirely incorrect. If I max the tow cap. out at 1500lbs. I can still put 700lbs. in the actual vehicle itself.

 

[oldjeep]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

The 1500lb. TOW capacity is just that. Tow capacity. So this statement is entirely incorrect. If I max the tow cap. out at 1500lbs. I can still put 700lbs. in the actual vehicle itself.

Not really - you need to subtract the tounge weight from your 700lbs

 

[sutor623]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

Not really - you need to subtract the tounge weight from your 700lbs

Nope. You need to subtract the tongue weight from 850lbs. You even already verified that on your first post.

 

[bigdee]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

Nope. You need to subtract the tongue weight from 850lbs. You even already verified that on your first post.

My,my, what did people do prior to 1965 when towing capacity was not even a spec listed by the manufacturer?

 

[sutor623]

Re: Help shedding some weight off my rig.

My,my, what did people do prior to 1965 when towing capacity was not even a spec listed by the manufacturer?

Hahaha, I know right?