"HELP" needed timing on my 1986 Tidecraft Evinrude 40HP VRO E40ELCDE motor???

[flyingscott]

Did you adjust the screw by your pinky to get to the 15 deg timing.

 

[dkosiewicz]

Yes flyingscott, but to get to 15* I had to remove the blot and turn it to the right all the way in. I had both plugs out, wires inserted in there plug wire sockets and than grounded. I had the wife turn the key on the motor and had the timing light on the flywheel. I am thinking tomorrow to take the top carb off since it is easier and check my float level again. This picture is incorrect as to how it actually looks right now. Also I found that the float should be set to 35/64's to 37/64's. I have it set to level. As in this picture -

 

[flyingscott]

THAT IS THE WRONG SCREW TO SET THE TIMING WITH!!!!!!! I have told you that 3 times. That screw that you set the timing with is the idle screw if you manage to get it running it is going to idle WAY TO HIGH. The 19 deg timing is your HIGH SPEED TIMING. To set that timing on your motor you need to disconnect the shift cable and take the spark plugs out. YOU THEN advance the throttle all the way until the timer base hits the screw under the flywheel with the rubber stop. Then put your timing light on it and time it and if it needs to be adjusted you move the bolt with the rubber tip on it. And back that idle screw back down NOW.

 

[cfauvel]

and take the spark plugs out. YOU THEN advance the throttle all the way until the timer base hits the screw under the flywheel with the rubber stop. Then put your timing light on it and time it and if it needs to be adjusted you move the bolt with the rubber tip on it. .

not following here..if the plugs are out how is he going to test the timing with a timing light? Are you thinking of using a remote starter to rotate the engine(via starter) without the plugs in (so it CANT start, whilst at max timing)....that's a good idea...safe way to set max timing....

question with the wheel spinning (via starter) slower than actually running would that affect max advance by much?

should he ground the plugs or ground the secondary coil wires if he removes the plugs completely?

 

[flyingscott]

not following here..if the plugs are out how is he going to test the timing with a timing light? Are you thinking of using a remote starter to rotate the engine(via starter) without the plugs in (so it CANT start, whilst at max timing)....that's a good idea...safe way to set max timing....

question with the wheel spinning (via starter) slower than actually running would that affect max advance by much?

should he ground the plugs or ground the secondary coil wires if he removes the plugs completely?

Click on the link in post #8

 

[dkosiewicz]

THAT IS THE WRONG SCREW TO SET THE TIMING WITH!!!!!!! I have told you that 3 times. That screw that you set the timing with is the idle screw if you manage to get it running it is going to idle WAY TO HIGH. The 19 deg timing is your HIGH SPEED TIMING. To set that timing on your motor you need to disconnect the shift cable and take the spark plugs out. YOU THEN advance the throttle all the way until the timer base hits the screw under the flywheel with the rubber stop. Then put your timing light on it and time it and if it needs to be adjusted you move the bolt with the rubber tip on it. And back that idle screw back down NOW.

Flyingscott,
I now understand what you are talking about. As soon as I get stuff together today I will do exactely what you said to do! One thing to advance the throttle all the way I take that to mean push my shifter lever on the remote control stick forward? Also does this look correct?

I found on the internet this - which translates to this - So from the top of my float to the carb should be about 9/16th of an inch? The only thing is my float is about 5/8's of a inch thick which means is would not be level and it would be slanted away from the post holding it in? Unless this is the wrong setting for my float. And if it is correct then I have my floats set incorrectly. :-( I found it on www.youtube.com I had it at a local shop for about 3 weeks and allegedly they worked on it and were unable to get it as far as we did. But still charged me $330 to "work" on it. Which I totally get that they did do something to it.

Thanks again guys for all your help, its much appreciated! Honestly

 

[flyingscott]

To set the floats hold the carb upside down and set the floats to level and you will be fine. Whwn you do the timing you will have to pull the throttle ahead manually because if you use the shifter it won't work. That is because the neutral safety switch will stop the starter from working.

 

[dkosiewicz]

LOL I was just gonna say it wont kickover when the throttle is in this position - What is this switch for? Here is how I grounded the spark plugs - And here where I will be making my adjustments - You did say to remove the throttle cable from its holder?

 

[dkosiewicz]

flyingscott,
I put the forward and reverse cable back into its holder and took out the throttle cable out of the holder so I can manually advance/pull/push this forward to set my timing at full speed, when it is hitting the screw with the rubber stop on it under the flywheel. I just need to wait for the wife to get home from work now so I can have someone to give me a hand cranking the motor while I advance my throttle and use the timing light to set my timing.

 

[dkosiewicz]

Knob Friction Adjustment Screw Lever?

 

[flyingscott]

You need to separate those plug wires. Put the plugs in the wires and tape them to the block for your ground. If they are connected to together you run the possibility of getting a bad signal for the timing light.

 

[dkosiewicz]

LOL,
My wife is gonna kill me (if she has to help me again time this dam thing) lol I just finished timing it to 15* since it is out of water. On the housing of the motor it calls for 19* BTC. I just put it all back together and attempted to start it and it still just cranks over and wont start. With the spark plugs not in the wires effect the timing? And to do the timing with the plugs in the wires can I just wrap the wire I had around the plug and then ground it where I had it grounded before? Prior to the VRO Fuel pump problem it ran strong and like a champ. I am at a loss. I have worked on this f'n thing for the past 5 days several hrs a day and got no where. I guess I will tear it apart tomorrow again and reset the timing. And you said the floats should be fine like this - ? If not I will wait for my manual which is supposed to be here tomorrow. Previously when I turned the key on it made the oil alarm go off. Now it does not. I tried jiggling the key and the handle on the throttle if the neutral switch was loose or messed up, but the alarm didnt sound. Maybe cause of the new VRO Fuel pump? I can not think of what else to do guys! Anyone got a shotgun to shoot this dam thing. Its been laid up for 2 years. Id say its a f'n paperweight but to big for that.

FML Dave

 

[dkosiewicz]

Anyone wanna buy a great running boat lol? :-(

 

[flyingscott]

Have you checked the flywheel key?

 

[dkosiewicz]

No haven't pulled my flywheel. I don't have a puller.

 

[dkosiewicz]

Got my book today I am ready to go lol.
But I do have a question? I was looking at the carb float setting and the book says this - and to set it like this - I set my floats level like this level with the carb body Havent done anything to it today. Busy with other stuff around the house.

 

[juno pierrat]

yes there are two float setting , the level float is the most important, the float drop is not talked about much, not as important , looks like adjustment is +/- half an inch

 

[dkosiewicz]

So I should be good with my float set level upside down than?

 

[juno pierrat]

Yes, the float drop is measured with carb body right side up

 

[dkosiewicz]

I got it! Dumb ass Boat Marina had gas and oil lines reversed. I figured I'd tear it down and start from beginning today and I looked at it and I'm like what the **** lol