Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

IraRat

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Hi, boys and girls! My name is Ira, and I'm a 56-year-old fart who lives in South Florida, near the Glades. Sorry if I'm a little long-winded here, but here's my story:

This weekend, I picked up a Craig's List beauty (HAH!) for 20 bucks--an old 4 by 8 wooden dinghy/rowboat. All I ever wanted was something tiny like this because I just recently got into Burmese Python hunting, and the only legal areas to hunt them are in Wildlife Management Areas accessible only by boat.

I love to fish, but stink at it, and I don't expect to actually shoot anything, because I stink at that too. So I wanted something small and cheap. In my area, it's impossible to find old 8- to 10-foot Jon boats, because everyone who has one hangs onto them, and anything new or newer would be too expensive--and my wife would yell at me.


Here she is on the sawhorses:

8459354726_d00cbdfa3d_b.jpg



Here is the bottom of the boat and the keel thingy. (As you can tell, I'm real up on boat technology.)

8458256693_1c927663e2.jpg



I have this damage on what I'm referring to as where the wood rub rails meet:

8459357918_322fcef00a_z.jpg



I'm posting this bad image of the interior because I'm too old and weak to right-side the boat for a good photo right now, plus I have a question about it below.

8459360328_d9da330d2f_c.jpg


First priority is refinishing the bottom and sides. (Technical term for the bottom?) Those lines in the wood are not deep, the photo might be deceptive, but obviously it's a sign that the wood is going south. The paint is flaking--where there IS paint--and actually rubs off like a powder on your hands.

I plan to take the orbital sander to it first, so my first question is:

1) Is it okay to use mineral spirits for cleaning off the dust while sanding? I have this odorless, green-friendly stuff at Wally World, but I don't know if it's okay for THIS wood in THIS condition.

Next, it obviously needs treatment before final finishing/painting, so what do you recommend? This part of the boat isn't showing signs of fungi rot, but who the hell know what's going on in there?

I saw a product call PC Rot Terminator, but it's real expensive. It has the benefit of both fungi-killing AND providing an epoxy (or epoxy-like) seal. I also read that coal tar creosote is the best stuff on earth for this, but you cant find it. And that simple white vinegar, anti-freeze, or borate solution will do a good job of killing wood-eating organisms, but of course does nothing for sealing. So next question:

2) If this was your boat and you didn't want to spend a fortune, but would spend whatever is needed to do a decent job, how would you approach restoring this, with the final step being paint?

Now, remember that broken thing above that I called rub rails? I heard that a product like moldable quick-setting epoxy is good for fixes like this, so:

3) Yes or no? Or would you rip the dang things off and install modern rub rails?

Finally:

4) See that round plastic thingy in the photo of the interior? There's one in the bow and also in the stern, and one is missing the cover. What exactly are those FOR? Hiding your beer from the authorities?

Well, I guess that's enough for now. With the exception of a small crack in a piece of the corner blocking, the interior seems to be in very good shape. In fact, it's in such good shape that it's going to be a nightmare to strip and refinish. There's rot at the top of the transom, but the boat wasn't in a great position to get a decent photo of it, and I figured first things first.

I'm not going to be able to register this because the title has long been lost to history, and I haven't done an in-depth inspection yet to find a VIN. You don't NEED registration in Florida for under 16 feet and unpowered, but I still want to throw a trolling motor on it and take my chances with the authorities.

Anyway, any help you guys can offer is appreciated. I'm not the handiest guy in the world, but I still love projects like this. (I once built a teardrop travel trailer.)

Thanks for listening!
 

airshot

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5,133
Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

The lines you see in the wood is from the plywood used in the construction. Take a small pocket knife and see if there are any areas that you can easily poke thru, these will be rotted wood areas that will need to be replaced. If it is not soft enough for your knife to poke thru then wood is still solid enough for refinishing. Sand down to bare wood, most any type of mineral spirits will work for cleanup as long as it is compatible to the finish you will be using. Decide on one of the many wood finishes availiable that your pocket book will allow and follow there instructions. As far as the rub rail it appears to be rotted so it should be replaced. The two small circles you speak of are acess ports to the undersides of the seats, probably used for flotation material. Had one of those when I was a kid, lots of fun with it but be carefull as they are quite tippy!! You may wabt to consider some foam rails to attatch to the sides to act as sponsons that may help with the tippy part. Good luck and keep us posted with pics...........

Airshot
 

IraRat

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Feb 9, 2013
Messages
248
Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Thanks for the quick reply!

Just went out there and the wood "seems" okay, but as far as sponsons go, would I use something like that instead of the existing rub rails, or in addition to them?

I'm considering using a product like Herculiner for the bottom, since it will be dragged on the ground while launching and such.

Just don't know yet--main priority now is getting her sanded, bug-protected and properly sealed.
 

Bondo

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Thanks for the quick reply!

Just went out there and the wood "seems" okay, but as far as sponsons go, would I use something like that instead of the existing rub rails, or in addition to them?

I'm considering using a product like Herculiner for the bottom, since it will be dragged on the ground while launching and such.

Just don't know yet--main priority now is getting her sanded, bug-protected and properly sealed.

This weekend, I picked up a Craig's List beauty (HAH!) for 20 bucks--an old 4 by 8 wooden dinghy/rowboat. All I ever wanted was something tiny like this because I just recently got into Burmese Python hunting, and the only legal areas to hunt them are in Wildlife Management Areas accessible only by boat.

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,... Donno how much Boatin' you done, but that little boat is gonna be Extremely tippy, 'n not to comfortable for travelin' any kinda distances...

'ell,... a big Canoe is usually less tippy, 'n much more efficient in the water...

Just sayin'....

Ya might wanta take it out, 'n Try it, before ya dump any money into it...
 

IraRat

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Well, I'm only going to be using her in flat water for short distances, and I'm stuck with her.

Don't want to spend a lot, but maybe there are some cheap mods I can make to stabilize.
 

Ned L

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Nice little stitch-&-glue pram. Looks like it has a good bit of life left in it (that checking in the plywood bottom is pretty 'normal' for fir plywood that has weathered, it does not affect the strength. If it were me, .... I'd give it a good sanding, replace the bad section of rub rail and give it a couple of coats of oil based enamel paint. Any decent paint, even a $10 gallon mis-tint oil based porch & deck paint will do ok if you are just going for a 'practical, user kind of boat'. Those water tight compartments are floatation chambers, and should have the covers left off when the boat is upside down and not in use. (If the covers are left on with humid air & moisture inside that is a REAL good way to rot the boat out from the inside out.)
 

Ned L

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

That Rust-Oleum would work just fine (it will hold up a bit better, but probably not enough to really tell the difference. It does have the advantage of easy availability in this age of disappearing (getting hard to find) oil base paints.) Give it at least a couple of good coats on the outside (preferably 3 if you can). This will not fill the checks in the bottom, but it will seal it well and protect the wood. If you wanted to get 'yachty' you can fill the checks & sand and smooth the bottom. That would make it 'pretty' but not any more functional.
 

Ned L

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

FYI, ... I suspect the rubrail is contoured as it is because it was intended to have a large diameter (~3/4" - ~1") length of cordage (rope) set in it as a gunwale guard so it wouldn't scrape up the side of a large boat when tied alongside.
 

IraRat

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Ahhh--thanks for the info on the rub rail. Makes total sense.

So for my purposes where a rub rail isn't critical...and for possible jerry-rigged sponsons installation...I might as well just remove 'em for now, right? Especially since they're rotting?
 

Ned L

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Well, .... I suppose you could remove the rubrail, HOWEVER because of the way this boat is built with no inwale or shearclamp (similar piece of wood on the inside of the boat) the rubrail really does double duty as a strength member (piece of the framing) in addition to 'bump protection'. Certainly there is no need for the fancy profile, but there should be something there. If only the end is bad you really don't need to replace the entire stick of wood. You can replace a small section with something like a 6" to 10" tapered scarf from one to the other. You really would want a tapered scarf from one piece to the other as a straight 90? cut and joint between the two will leave a weak spot and probably form a "hard spot" ("lump") in the curve of the side of the boat. it would look a bit funky, but even if you replace just a piece you don't need to match the profile shape.
 

IraRat

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

THANKS!

I understand what you're saying.
 

IraRat

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Houston, we have initial liftoff.

The paint on the bottom of the hull has turned to a powder on the outer coats, so sanding is kind of an exercise in futility. I therefore decided to use stripping gel to get all the crap off:

8479322302_2d509a3308_c.jpg


I didn't know how much the jug would cover, but it covered it all, with plenty left over. So I covered the whole Piece of Ship (exterior) about 5 minutes ago, and I'll give it a few hours to soak in before getting to scraping, and to buy more beer:

8479322704_3c7b818598_c.jpg


By the way--this stuff smells great and is real easy to work with! (So far.) Thank God for Wal-Mart.

And although I'm getting ahead myself (that's my style), I'm trying to figure out how to handle the eventual interior work. I'd like to do the same stripping there, but do you think I can do that with the boat positioned on the saw horses as now--or do I have to right-side her?

We can get a lot of rain in South Florida although it's not our rainy season now...I can't easily flip the boat myself without my wife's help and she'll complain the entire time and for days after...plus it seems "better" for the boat to be inverted like this for downpours.

But for now. the plan is to get the exterior stripped and cleaned...primed...and painted. (Before priming and painting, I'm going to cut out the bad rub rail sections with an angle grinder.)

And also...

See those pink things behind the boat? Those are attached to a 4 by 4 Harbor Freight trailer which used to haul one of my pig smokers, and they're going to be history soon. I want to convert that trailer to haul this Piece of Ship, and need advice on how to do that, if possible. I think it's a matter of lengthening the tongue (easy), but buying V hardware to accommodate the V of the hull.

Don't really care about being able to back the trailer into the water to float the boat. I just want to be able to haul it, get close to the ramp, and drag it in.

As always, thanks for your insights and help!
 

Teamster

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Just tagging along to follow,....
 

Ned L

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

The blue paint on the bottom is so soft and 'powdery' most likely because it is a traditional ablative type of antifouling bottom paint (keeps barnacles & all the other marine growth from setting up home on the bottom of the boat when it is kept in the water). Yes, it is best to remove all of that and get a couple of good coats oil based enamel paint on it (Rust-Oleum).
I suspect you will find the white paint to be harder and not nearly as 'powdery' as the blue paint. If that is the case there shouldn't be the need to remove the old white paint, just give it a good sanding.
An angle grinder can actually do a good job of cutting the bevel in the rubrail to cut out the bad area.
Getting the outside under control and painted before flipping the boat is a good idea.
It sounds like what you have for a trailer should work fine with some simple modifications. how about a couple of pictures of the trailer?
 

IraRat

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Well, progress progresses.

Picked up Rustoleum's ABOVE the water line primer, since they didn't have anything for below. No big deal, since this boat will hardly be in the water.

EXPENSIVE stuff--19 bucks--but I didn't want to cheap out on this. Took almost the entire quart, two coats, but I have enough for the rub rail inserts:

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Here she is, primed and masked with Gorilla Tape:

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It's about 3PM EST now, and I'm going to give her a few more minutes to dry before painting the bottom in the Rustoleum Deep Green. (The sides will be a DIFFERENT day, in sand beige, and I'm going to to the rub rail in green too, and install rope there.) Not exactly sure what I'm going to do about this green--like, do I REALLY have to sand between coats?

I have about 3 hours of daylight left, but only about 2 hours of ENERGY left (plus I want to barbecue tonight), so I'll see how it goes.

Let me get one good coat on there for now and we'll take it from there.

Will post photos if I'm still standing, and I'll eventually get to photos of the trailer, once I pull the smoker and fryers off there.

And as always, thanks for you attention and help!
 

Ned L

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Looks good! As for sanding between coats, if the coats of paint are put on within a couple of days of each other then the sanding is mostly for cosmetics (to help end up with a smoother finish). If there is a long time between coats of paint (weeks-months) then sanding between coats does help the new paint stick to the old paint (if it is months - years between coats then the sanding also helps remove the oxidized outer surface of the old paint).
 

IraRat

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Well, she's all painted on the exterior.

Didn't come out great because you can see all of the grain in the wood and imperfections in coat below, but what the hell. A lot better than before, and the wood is properly protected. (Ironically, I much preferred the look of just the flat white PRIMER. The glossy paint is kind of funky.) I have to remove the masking tape (standard masking tape this time, not gorilla tape) and see how clean the line is between the green and beige:

8503359681_f3ca97187a_c.jpg


Here is a pic of the trailer I'm hoping to convert:

8503359161_6b7d2d2665_c.jpg


That green base is ext ply, and measures 4 by 4. (The [widest] beam of the boat is 4.) I extended the axle to give me that 4 wide, because the trailer is sold as 4' long but only 40" wide. The axle was extended to allow me to hang the ply 4" over each side.)

Here is the trailer as sold by Harbor Freight:

image_18027.jpg


After I post this, I'm going to pull this Piece of Ship off the sawhorses and lay it on the trailer right-side-up, to be able to work on her. As mentioned above, I'm going to need some transom repair, so once I have her sitting there, I'll take some photos and ask your advice on how to proceed.

Regarding my damaged rub rail, is it possible I can find a stick of this somewhere online to replace the damaged area with the same?
 

Ned L

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Looks good. And yes, weathered plywood takes a lot of work to get smooth. As you said, it is well protected now. Yes, the down side of gloss paints, they show all the imperfections!
The trailer should be able to work just fine.
Unfortunately I doubt you will be able to find something premade to match to match the rubrail.
 

IraRat

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Re: Help In Restoring An Old Wood Dinghy

Yes--me and my Piece of Ship still live.

I've been working on her little by little, but since the neighbors had family members visiting this weekend and using their pool, I didn't want to torture them too much with the noise from my sander. (I live on the POOR side of the block, thus, no pool.)

Here we go, with a shot of the damaged transom. It's a piece of 3/4" thick lumber which abuts the exterior ply. And you can also see the hole/damage on that exterior ply:

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I patiently used a screwdriver and hammer to chip away at the damaged plank:

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Here's that ply damage. OUCH!!

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Here's the new board in there, and don't ask. I screwed up on the measurements, and had to herry-rig a small piece on the right side. No big deal because that piece isn't going anywhere. Used Titebond II and clamped for a day. Also, just put the piece in there at its off the shelf 5 1/2" width, to sand down later and follow the contour of the top of old transom. You can see that I started this sanding on the left side:

8545391967_46521ea198_b.jpg



Here's the exterior of the transom, with the new plank waiting to be sanded down to fix the contour. I used JB Quick Wood epoxy to fill the gaps between the new board and ply, and for hole damage. Looks HORRIBLE in this photo, but after sanding, should be just fine--and I think this JB is the best product for this application, although expensive:

8546489108_9902069185_b.jpg




Here's the bow interior:

8546489720_2d3c342fd2_b.jpg
 
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