Help ID'ing my outdrive?

[USMC Hoss]

Can soemone help me ID my outdrive? I know its a OMC, I belive its a stringer??? It's on a 1977 Cruiser w/ a 351w. Thanks and Cheers!
S/F
Big John
PS sorry about the picture, I'll get a better one in a few.

 

[KRH1326]

Re: Help ID'ing my outdrive?

That sure looks like my 1976 electric shift.
My eyes are not the best anymore, but I think I can see the bonding cable wire, on the upper port side, top.

Directly under that silverish bonding wire, if you have the leg tilted up, is there a small black rubber booted wire coming up through the case, then going in through the intermediate housing in the transom?

 

[KRH1326]

Re: Help ID'ing my outdrive?

That really does look like the electric shift. From the very small part of the photo, it looks like the low profile model.

You can find aftermarket manual here:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=309093

It should be the very same as mine, 235 HP.

A couple of key things from experience:

Make sure that you tune her very well. You must be able to idle below 600 rpm. I have mine down below 500 rpm. You must be very careful, and shift gears under 600 rpm. With the E-shifts you run the risk of wrecking the spring sets in the lower unit.

Parts are constantly getting rarer, and more expensive.

Surf the forums for posts about packing the tilt gears with grease, as opposed to oil.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=340984
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=259807

You can use any type of lube in the upper unit, but you must use "type C" in the lower unit. "Type C" is non conductive, and wires pass into the lower unit, to magnets, that move your forward and reverse gears in and out. Water and or conductive lube makes strange things happen down there.

Good Luck.

 

[USMC Hoss]

Re: Help ID'ing my outdrive?

That sure looks like my 1976 electric shift.
My eyes are not the best anymore, but I think I can see the bonding cable wire, on the upper port side, top.

Directly under that silverish bonding wire, if you have the leg tilted up, is there a small black rubber booted wire coming up through the case, then going in through the intermediate housing in the transom?

Thank you! You are correct!

That really does look like the electric shift. From the very small part of the photo, it looks like the low profile model.

You can find aftermarket manual here:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=309093

It should be the very same as mine, 235 HP.

A couple of key things from experience:

Make sure that you tune her very well. You must be able to idle below 600 rpm. I have mine down below 500 rpm. You must be very careful, and shift gears under 600 rpm. With the E-shifts you run the risk of wrecking the spring sets in the lower unit.

Parts are constantly getting rarer, and more expensive.

Surf the forums for posts about packing the tilt gears with grease, as opposed to oil.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=340984
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=259807

You can use any type of lube in the upper unit, but you must use "type C" in the lower unit. "Type C" is non conductive, and wires pass into the lower unit, to magnets, that move your forward and reverse gears in and out. Water and or conductive lube makes strange things happen down there.

Good Luck.

Thank you! I'm going to change the oils today, I have to pick up some "C" type. I have the idle right at 500rpm (I'm also running Trickflow Heads, and a nice cam). I have had no problems YET, well Just the trim motor, not wanting to go up and down sometimes. But she going into gear fine. I don't got WOT from a dead stop, just easy in the the throttle, and cruise around 1/2 - 3/4 throttle. I tell you what a set of heads REALLY woke this this up! I goign to run Redline shock Proof in the upper, and the "C" in the lower. Does any one make a Syn. for the "C" type?
S/F
John

 

[KRH1326]

Re: Help ID'ing my outdrive?

I don't recall ever seeing a synthetic type c. There might be, tho.

http://www.iboats.com/Gear-Lube-Typ...2342374--**********.641335328--view_id.187329

http://www.iboats.com/Mallory-Gear-...2342374--**********.641335328--view_id.363758


I would recommend this, for filling the upper and lower units.

http://www.iboats.com/Lubrimatic-Oi...2342374--**********.641335328--view_id.187351

Lower is easy. Upper is kind of funny, or tricky, to get it right. Read the manual carefully, like I said, these parts are gettin' like hens teeth. Protect what you have.

 

[USMC Hoss]

Re: Help ID'ing my outdrive?

I don't recall ever seeing a synthetic type c. There might be, tho.

http://www.iboats.com/Gear-Lube-Typ...2342374--**********.641335328--view_id.187329

http://www.iboats.com/Mallory-Gear-...2342374--**********.641335328--view_id.363758


I would recommend this, for filling the upper and lower units.

http://www.iboats.com/Lubrimatic-Oi...2342374--**********.641335328--view_id.187351

Lower is easy. Upper is kind of funny, or tricky, to get it right. Read the manual carefully, like I said, these parts are gettin' like hens teeth. Protect what you have.

I have a pump for oil changes, I just hook it up to my compressor, shove the tube in and it sucks it clean. I'm going to run the Redline Heavy Shock Proof in the upper (I run this in all my Harleys) and the "C'' in the lower. I'll let you knwo how it goes. PS I found a whole 1978 drive completed for $800!