Help diagnose problem with Chrysler Economate 3.5HP

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Help diagnose problem with Chrysler Economate 3.5HP

Closing the front butterfly is closing the choke.Open or flat is run.1/2 is warm up.
Remove the float and the needle valve will fall out.Inspect the hole and needle for dirt and gunk buildup.More pics,closer pics.When the float is removed look for a jet that might be clogged.Pics of the completly dis-asembled carb. Will look for the book in the AM.
Screw on the side:remove it and inspect.It should be smooth from base till tip.Any grooves or rough spots?Gonna need new.Spray inside with carb cleaner.Re-install screw till it(GENTLY) just bottoms out.Then out 1 and 1/16 turn. Try to start.
Set up the idle while it's warming.
Then set the air screw while it runs at idle.In slowly till it bucks.coughs slows down.Then out 1/2 turn.
Oh yea it's a 1980 mod if you didn't know.

 

[lucas_chrysler_1]

Re: Help diagnose problem with Chrysler Economate 3.5HP

Ok. Choke or as you call it "butterfly valve" must be closed to start it!!!!! as soos as it starts to run, turn the choke off(butterfly valve open) or else it will flood out and stall, with fuel dripping from the carb

 

[economate2]

Re: Help diagnose problem with Chrysler Economate 3.5HP

Now I'm confused. Jerry says the butterfly valve open is "run" and half-open is "warm-up". Lucas says it must be closed to start and open to run.

So do I shut it closed when I'm starting it and as soon as it runs, I open it all the way? I noticed that time when I got it going that when I opened it all the way, the engine stalled.

So if I don't open it or open it all the way, the carb will leak? I thought the carb is overfilling because the float switch isn't working.

 

[lucas_chrysler_1]

Re: Help diagnose problem with Chrysler Economate 3.5HP

ok some motors need to run half open for a while for warm up SO. start the motor with the choke closed, then when it fires, open it half way, then once it has ran for a minute or so open all the way. try this then comment back

 

[economate2]

Re: Help diagnose problem with Chrysler Economate 3.5HP

UPDATE!!!


I figured out part of the problem. The gas tank had a lot of rust in it, and I guess the tiny particles got through the in-line fuel filter and clogged up the carb. I soaked the tank in kerosene and rinsed it out with it as much as possible. Cleaned all the hoses for the gas, and bought a new, better, in-line fuel filter. Cleaned the carb again, put it all back together, and it ran like a clock. I got it on the boat, and went about 1000 feet as it started dieing on me and stalled.

Now, the carburetor is overfilling again as soon as I open the gas valve. I don't think there's dirt in there again because the filter is very fine, and looks to be pretty clean.

What else would make the carburetor overfill with fuel and start dripping like that?

 

[economate2]

Re: Help diagnose problem with Chrysler Economate 3.5HP

Final Update!!!

I figured out the main problem why the carburetor was flooding with gas. The float has a hole and fills up with gas, unable to switch up and lock the intake of gas. I'll need to find a new float switch.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Help diagnose problem with Chrysler Economate 3.5HP

Didn't see the last post.Great!!!!
Still got junk??
Put a new paper element filter in line between the tank and carb.
Got one from autozone.$3 for my old Yamaha 650.The tank was REALLY bad and was having to clean the carbs along the road a lot so I got a NEW paper filter and it's still running without trouble.J

 

[ross313]

Re: Help diagnose problem with Chrysler Economate 3.5HP

Didn't see the last post.Great!!!!
Still got junk??
Put a new paper element filter in line between the tank and carb.
Got one from autozone.$3 for my old Yamaha 650.The tank was REALLY bad and was having to clean the carbs along the road a lot so I got a NEW paper filter and it's still running without trouble.J

HI guys, sorry to ham-in on this question but I have an pull start problem on my 1980 3.5 chrysler economate: My pull start will not disengage from the fy-wheel; the "palls" will not fully retract thus the chord hangs out (yes the chord has proper tension). Motor was left disassembled for 10 years so Im not sure what if anything is missing from the recoil start mechanism. Also, the flywheel was refaced so possibly the diameter of the "flywheel hole" may be too small?

 

[jerryjerry05]

12 year old post???
Start a new one.
Get a parts diagram and compare to what you have???