I have read just about every post in the lengthening boat thread - good stuff. I think my questions are basic (maybe not?) and I am getting hung up on options and some terminology.
My biggest problem is not really knowing WHAT to buy and HOW much. Based on the lengthening thread I think I understand what to do from a labor perspective.
I am looking to do the following in 13-14 ft Crestliner, late 60's early 70's model -
1. Remove all stringers, they are shot
2. Inspect transom - can cut away fiberglass from inside to inspect
3. Reinforce the hull of the boat with fiberglass - from transom to bow, up the sides a little as well
4. Replace stringers using composite wood (trex, etc)
5. Put new deck in
Questions -
1. the hull of the boat is flexing already when i walk on it with 1 center stringer removed. How can i remove all the stringers and not have the hull flex or deform? support from bottom? support inside the boat? Do I just need to lean over the side of the boat to do the fiberglass work?
2. If the transom shows some rot, can I use these products? Again, I would cut away from the inside and apply the products that way
http://rotdoctor.com/glass/GLrotrepair.html
3. What exactly do I need here? roving with epoxy? roving with poly resin? And how much roving and how much poly/epoxy? The hull measure 9ft by 5 ft (roughly) and up into the bow is another 3ft wide by 4ft wide section. I thinkg I want to do 2 layers... do I need to let the first layer set and then ruff/scuff to add the second layer? Or do I do the second layer after the 1st layer is tacky? Do I use foam rollers to spend the epoxy/resin over the roving?
4. I assume that when I let the fiberglass on the hull set, I will need to ruff/scuff where the stringers will go, then use PL adhesive to set the stringers over the new fiberglass floor and then use fiberglass cloth (mat? roving?) to secure the stringers in place?
5. The deck - haven't decided what to do here. Can I apply the resin to exterior grade plywood and that will last 3, 5, 10 years with covering and care?
Misc Questions -
- how bad are air bubbles? I know you have a zero tolerance for them, are they THAT bad to have a tiny bubble here and there?
pictures here - http://shawndanlakehouse.wordpress.com/pictures/boat-pictures-floor-removal/
Thank you,
Bill
My biggest problem is not really knowing WHAT to buy and HOW much. Based on the lengthening thread I think I understand what to do from a labor perspective.
I am looking to do the following in 13-14 ft Crestliner, late 60's early 70's model -
1. Remove all stringers, they are shot
2. Inspect transom - can cut away fiberglass from inside to inspect
3. Reinforce the hull of the boat with fiberglass - from transom to bow, up the sides a little as well
4. Replace stringers using composite wood (trex, etc)
5. Put new deck in
Questions -
1. the hull of the boat is flexing already when i walk on it with 1 center stringer removed. How can i remove all the stringers and not have the hull flex or deform? support from bottom? support inside the boat? Do I just need to lean over the side of the boat to do the fiberglass work?
2. If the transom shows some rot, can I use these products? Again, I would cut away from the inside and apply the products that way
http://rotdoctor.com/glass/GLrotrepair.html
3. What exactly do I need here? roving with epoxy? roving with poly resin? And how much roving and how much poly/epoxy? The hull measure 9ft by 5 ft (roughly) and up into the bow is another 3ft wide by 4ft wide section. I thinkg I want to do 2 layers... do I need to let the first layer set and then ruff/scuff to add the second layer? Or do I do the second layer after the 1st layer is tacky? Do I use foam rollers to spend the epoxy/resin over the roving?
4. I assume that when I let the fiberglass on the hull set, I will need to ruff/scuff where the stringers will go, then use PL adhesive to set the stringers over the new fiberglass floor and then use fiberglass cloth (mat? roving?) to secure the stringers in place?
5. The deck - haven't decided what to do here. Can I apply the resin to exterior grade plywood and that will last 3, 5, 10 years with covering and care?
Misc Questions -
- how bad are air bubbles? I know you have a zero tolerance for them, are they THAT bad to have a tiny bubble here and there?
pictures here - http://shawndanlakehouse.wordpress.com/pictures/boat-pictures-floor-removal/
Thank you,
Bill
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