I'm sorry to inquire on a topic that has been touched on so many times. But, when I scan threads and see many different models/methods - it becomes confusing.
I just picked-up a 1975 20hp Mercury, model 1200225, sn 4288253, to replace the 9.9 Chrysler I have on my 1984 14" Duracraft. I know, I'm going backwards in years.
I got a great deal worth taking a risk on a "just broke the pull cord, but runs well" scenario from a young soldier transferring out-of-state. There's been some good service maintenance done by a local shop, so I took a chance. When I got it home, mounted it on my boat and removed the starter shroud to replace the rope - after watching a couple YouTube videos & reading threads - I was met with pieces falling around. Obviously, someone had attempted the repair and become frustrated. Luckily, I found all the pawls, washers, etc. Unfortunately, I didn't see exactly how everything came apart; but washer wear marks, pawl traces, etc. gave a good idea. I thought I had it reassembled correctly but have the following issues and questions after the starter failed to achieve regular "catches" and no ignition:
1. How tight (torque spec) do you put on top nut? I had achieved full rewind of a new rope after about 8 full turns to load the spring, replaced the rope and assembled the covers. The action felt pretty good, but the rope came loose indicating I did not tighten the top nut enough. But if I tighten too much, I won't achieve proper action either will I - which I think led to me breaking the spring after my second assembly. I manhandled it a little. I do wait for the clutches to catch, but gave a bit too much effort. I'll rebend and rewind spring tomorrow. That should be okay.
2. I see in the forum that starter malfunction may be as simple as cleaning and greasing. While disassembled, I'll grease center bolt and spring. I'll insure mating surfaces are clean. I'll oil pawls and surfaces. Any other advice on clean, grease, oiling this thing?
3. Looking down on the spring assembly, the rope threads to the left of the pulley and is pre-loaded by winding CCW correct? How many rotations?
3b. Can the spring be loaded and rope wound just by loosening the top nut and using a large screw driver?
4. When I put the starter shroud back on, it has a longer bolt on the front right (looking at the front of engine). That bolt also retains the swing arm on the throttle. How tight/loose do you adjust that bolt? I'm such a novice, I didn't realize at first you get different play at this swing arm depending on whether the engine is in gear or neutral... duh.
5. How to set timing? Does it matter, or is that an issue if I were pulling the crank rotor? I see a sticker which says timing is to be 30 BTDC, I see the markings on the cowling and I see two white lines scribed on the rotor. Do I need to adjust this? Do I turn the drive shaft, or what? (just did my Mercedes head gasket, so I'm full of useless analogies).
I think I'm close, but falling into PIA difficulties I've read this fix can be. Need to get the little fish killer back on the water before the weather changes...
Thanks in advance!
CigarXO
I just picked-up a 1975 20hp Mercury, model 1200225, sn 4288253, to replace the 9.9 Chrysler I have on my 1984 14" Duracraft. I know, I'm going backwards in years.
I got a great deal worth taking a risk on a "just broke the pull cord, but runs well" scenario from a young soldier transferring out-of-state. There's been some good service maintenance done by a local shop, so I took a chance. When I got it home, mounted it on my boat and removed the starter shroud to replace the rope - after watching a couple YouTube videos & reading threads - I was met with pieces falling around. Obviously, someone had attempted the repair and become frustrated. Luckily, I found all the pawls, washers, etc. Unfortunately, I didn't see exactly how everything came apart; but washer wear marks, pawl traces, etc. gave a good idea. I thought I had it reassembled correctly but have the following issues and questions after the starter failed to achieve regular "catches" and no ignition:
1. How tight (torque spec) do you put on top nut? I had achieved full rewind of a new rope after about 8 full turns to load the spring, replaced the rope and assembled the covers. The action felt pretty good, but the rope came loose indicating I did not tighten the top nut enough. But if I tighten too much, I won't achieve proper action either will I - which I think led to me breaking the spring after my second assembly. I manhandled it a little. I do wait for the clutches to catch, but gave a bit too much effort. I'll rebend and rewind spring tomorrow. That should be okay.
2. I see in the forum that starter malfunction may be as simple as cleaning and greasing. While disassembled, I'll grease center bolt and spring. I'll insure mating surfaces are clean. I'll oil pawls and surfaces. Any other advice on clean, grease, oiling this thing?
3. Looking down on the spring assembly, the rope threads to the left of the pulley and is pre-loaded by winding CCW correct? How many rotations?
3b. Can the spring be loaded and rope wound just by loosening the top nut and using a large screw driver?
4. When I put the starter shroud back on, it has a longer bolt on the front right (looking at the front of engine). That bolt also retains the swing arm on the throttle. How tight/loose do you adjust that bolt? I'm such a novice, I didn't realize at first you get different play at this swing arm depending on whether the engine is in gear or neutral... duh.
5. How to set timing? Does it matter, or is that an issue if I were pulling the crank rotor? I see a sticker which says timing is to be 30 BTDC, I see the markings on the cowling and I see two white lines scribed on the rotor. Do I need to adjust this? Do I turn the drive shaft, or what? (just did my Mercedes head gasket, so I'm full of useless analogies).
I think I'm close, but falling into PIA difficulties I've read this fix can be. Need to get the little fish killer back on the water before the weather changes...
Thanks in advance!
CigarXO
