Help a new guy out . Pcv valve

tumbel

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Hello everyone,
I'm new here, I'll just start with that. I purchased a 2004 trophy pro with a 4.3. The motor was bad so i got a short block and switched everything over. The motor I'm replacing it with is a non vortec so i had to switch intake because the vortec one wouldn't work . The stock motor was in pieces when i purchased the boat. I got about everything assembled but i see nowhere for the pcv valves to hook up. Nothing on the 2 barrel carb or the fire arrester/ air cleaner. I do see a plug in the intake manifold directly beneath the carb. Would i get a tee and hook them up there? Leave them open? any help would be appreciated.
thanks
Todd
 

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
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Hello everyone,
I'm new here, I'll just start with that. I purchased a 2004 trophy pro with a 4.3. The motor was bad so i got a short block and switched everything over. The motor I'm replacing it with is a non vortec so i had to switch intake because the vortec one wouldn't work . The stock motor was in pieces when i purchased the boat. I got about everything assembled but i see nowhere for the pcv valves to hook up. Nothing on the 2 barrel carb or the fire arrester/ air cleaner. I do see a plug in the intake manifold directly beneath the carb. Would i get a tee and hook them up there? Leave them open? any help would be appreciated.
thanks
Todd
Boats dont use PCV valves there will be a tube from an elbow on the valve cover(s) that goes to a point on the flame arrestor, so basically any crankcase gas gets pulled into the carb.

Flame arrestor should look like this vents to valve covers connect to the barbs- what does yours look like? https://marineenginedepot.com/flame-arrestor-for-carburated-engines

You can see it installed on a 5.7 V8 that is similar to your 4.3 here https://www.michiganmotorz.com/5-7l-vortec-marine-gold-package-315-hp-1967-current-replacement

Make sure you are using all the electrical and fuel related components off the marine engine not the automotive one. Electrical and fuel components have shielding and leak protections not found in automotive parts to prevent fires in marine installations.
 

tumbel

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Feb 4, 2022
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23
Boats dont use PCV valves there will be a tube from an elbow on the valve cover(s) that goes to a point on the flame arrestor, so basically any crankcase gas gets pulled into the carb.

Flame arrestor should look like this vents to valve covers connect to the barbs- what does yours look like? https://marineenginedepot.com/flame-arrestor-for-carburated-engines

You can see it installed on a 5.7 V8 that is similar to your 4.3 here https://www.michiganmotorz.com/5-7l-vortec-marine-gold-package-315-hp-1967-current-replacement

Make sure you are using all the electrical and fuel related components off the marine engine not the automotive one. Electrical and fuel components have shielding and leak protections not found in automotive parts to prevent fires in marine installations.
Hi Scott06,
Thank you so much! No wonder i couldn't find anywhere to hook them up! My flame arrestor doesn't have the nipples for a tube.. I assumed the "elbow" was a pcv valve. My mistake on that one for sure. Are the nipples a separate part that can ordered? This my first boat that's all my own and of course i purchased one that needed major repair. I have replaced only marine grade parts so far. starter , intake and some sensors. I got the new motor about together . This is gona be an adventure for sure!
 

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alldodge

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thanks so much! I'm taking it the the tube just pushes over the ends of the floor stock?
Yes
The link shows the pic

The one in your pic does the same thing. The hose just needs to be near the arrestor, vacuum from the motor does the rest
 

tumbel

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Hi Scott06,
Thank you so much! No wonder i couldn't find anywhere to hook them up! My flame arrestor doesn't have the nipples for a tube.. I assumed the "elbow" was a pcv valve. My mistake on that one for sure. Are the nipples a separate part that can ordered? This my first boat that's all my own and of course i purchased one that needed major repair. I have replaced only marine grade parts so far. starter , intake and some sensors. I got the new motor about together . This is gona be an adventure for sure!
Upon further inspection, if you look at the bottom of the picture there's a tab on the base of the plastic.. I had the dang thing on upside down! I'm guessing that's where the tubes hook up. I pulled the elbow and it is indeed a pcv valve. Someone must have added it or screwed up. I'll just get rid of it and find some elbows and some tubing. I have to admit, I was a little nervous about joining this forum. I've been on other forums and people are just down right rude to others. Thank you , and everyone else who was so quick to offer help without judgement. I really appreciate it!
 

Scott06

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Upon further inspection, if you look at the bottom of the picture there's a tab on the base of the plastic.. I had the dang thing on upside down! I'm guessing that's where the tubes hook up. I pulled the elbow and it is indeed a pcv valve. Someone must have added it or screwed up. I'll just get rid of it and find some elbows and some tubing. I have to admit, I was a little nervous about joining this forum. I've been on other forums and people are just down right rude to others. Thank you , and everyone else who was so quick to offer help without judgement. I really appreciate it!
You are welcome this forum is good unless you start an oil thread…

what is your engine number normally they are elbows only but maybe merc does something different ocassionally
 

Scott Danforth

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I would stick with vortec heads vs taking the hit in power
 

tumbel

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You are welcome this forum is good unless you start an oil thread…

what is your engine number normally they are elbows only but maybe merc does something different ocassionally
Hi scott06 ,
the block number is 10066061. i think its an early 90's motor but not sure.
 

tumbel

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I would stick with vortec heads vs taking the hit in power
Hi Scott,
The original motor wasn't winterized correctly. oil filter was completely filled with water and compression was really low on 3 cylinders.. exhaust manifold was cracked also. I would have liked to stay with the vortec heads but who knows if they are good. could very well have been cracked along with whatever is cracked in the block. It's a fishing boat so speed isn't a concern. I could have had the motor pressure tested and found out what all was wrong but i decided an already rebuilt motor was more than likely a smarter move. Besides, I wanna get this thing on the water! If nothing else , when i have the extra money i ca take the original motor to the shop and have it rebuilt.
 

Scott Danforth

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Hi Scott,
The original motor wasn't winterized correctly. oil filter was completely filled with water and compression was really low on 3 cylinders.. exhaust manifold was cracked also. I would have liked to stay with the vortec heads but who knows if they are good. could very well have been cracked along with whatever is cracked in the block. It's a fishing boat so speed isn't a concern. I could have had the motor pressure tested and found out what all was wrong but i decided an already rebuilt motor was more than likely a smarter move. Besides, I wanna get this thing on the water! If nothing else , when i have the extra money i ca take the original motor to the shop and have it rebuilt.
you went thru the effort of buying a new wrong block and heads. why not buy the correct block and heads? 30hp is a concern

a running used 1996 or later vortec headed 4.3 is under $200 from the local pull-your-part salvage yard.
 

Scott06

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you went thru the effort of buying a new wrong block and heads. why not buy the correct block and heads? 30hp is a concern

a running used 1996 or later vortec headed 4.3 is under $200 from the local pull-your-part salvage yard.
He just trying to piece it together... not get an earful

If I recall the 4.3 2 bbl non vortec was 175 hp , vortec is 190 hp. Might need to pitch down depending on boat size.
 

Scott06

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Hi scott06 ,
the block number is 10066061. i think its an early 90's motor but not sure.
is that a Merc engine serial number or GM block casting number? Doesn't show in parts searches. Usually on the flame arrestor cover there is tune up into but also as section with Merc engine, transom, and drive serial numbers. If it is the original merc block a serial number tag will be riveted just above starter. These are used to get correct parts.

I think this is the correct elbow that should go in the valve cover http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MER97850T

this shows the orientation in parts breakdown, I guessed on serial number range ...
 

tumbel

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you went thru the effort of buying a new wrong block and heads. why not buy the correct block and heads? 30hp is a concern

a running used 1996 or later vortec headed 4.3 is under $200 from the local pull-your-part salvage yard.
Hi Scott,
Yes i realize there is a hp difference. It's not much though. I believe my motor is rated at 175 and the original was at 190. Pulling a motor from a junkyard is always an option but then again it would still need work. The cost of machine work and rebuilding would have been more than i paid for the rebuilt one I have. Anytime you get a junkyard motor its a gamble. Believe me i would have liked to have stayed with the 04 motor. This way i have a new motor and the cost was cheap. well,,, somewhat cheap vs a new motor.
 

tumbel

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is that a Merc engine serial number or GM block casting number? Doesn't show in parts searches. Usually on the flame arrestor cover there is tune up into but also as section with Merc engine, transom, and drive serial numbers. If it is the original merc block a serial number tag will be riveted just above starter. These are used to get correct parts.

I think this is the correct elbow that should go in the valve cover http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MER97850T

this shows the orientation in parts breakdown, I guessed on serial number range ...
I checked and the serial number tag is missing. That would have made things alot easier finding the exact parts i need. Thanks so much for your help!
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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I checked and the serial number tag is missing. That would have made things alot easier finding the exact parts i need. Thanks so much for your help!
since you are mixing and matching generations of parts, you cant go off of the parts lists from mercruiser.

your accessory drive pulleys may need a 7 gauge (3/16") spacer made because the 96 and later motor has a different balancer than the 95 and earlier

This will help on the base engine side


however you may need to reach out to @nola mike when it comes to mixing parts from motor generations external to the long block

Hi Scott,
Yes i realize there is a hp difference. It's not much though. I believe my motor is rated at 175 and the original was at 190. Pulling a motor from a junkyard is always an option but then again it would still need work. The cost of machine work and rebuilding would have been more than i paid for the rebuilt one I have. Anytime you get a junkyard motor its a gamble. Believe me i would have liked to have stayed with the 04 motor. This way i have a new motor and the cost was cheap. well,,, somewhat cheap vs a new motor.
starting with the right base motor would help you save lots of money and headaches here as everything on your busted 2004 motor would have just transfered over.
 
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