Heavy weight seat mounts & swivels

[jhande]

I recently acquired a used Glastron bow rider which I am refurbishing (new floors and seats). I want to change it slightly to a fishing boat for my son and I. He's about 400 lbs and I'm about 330 lbs. I'm old and disabled so I need comfy seats set a decent height for long days of fishing. I'm making the transaction from canoes. I found fishing seats no problem but... Most pedestals/mounts/swivels do not advertise weight ratings.

What I need is a mount and locking swivel about 14" in height rated for 400+ pounds??
Any help would be appreciated.
I'm not against buying metal and welding my own post if need be but the locking swivel is defiantly something I'm having issues finding.

 

[jbcurt00]

What model and year Glastron?

There may be more work to do then you think beyond seats and deck (floor).

Helm rated pedestals w a heavy duty rating may be hard to come by.

Seat swivels w locking pins dont either I dont think, but are definitely sold seperately from pedestals as well, so DIY would still be possible.

4in diameter pedestal

http://www.springfieldgrp.com/products/4-series/4-pedestals/fixed-height-pedestals/elite-pedestals

Swivel

http://www.springfieldgrp.com/products/4-series/4-seat-mounts/workhorse-swivels

Both are helm rated (AD driver as noted on the web pages I linked)

Then you'd have to get seats to mount to them.

A 4in pedestal is massive compared to most posts, but a bunch arent helm rated.

 

[Scott Danforth]

any pedestal with the 3/4" spud is rated at about 200# these are generally ABYC class B (fishing only, not to be used underway)

the 2-3/8" locking ones like the Atwood Swivel Eze line are good to about 300# these are either AP or AD

your looking large diameter pedestals as indicated. to get a 4" diameter locking swivel of any quality, your going to spend some serious coin.

the two ratings are ABYC AP or 30# of torque, and AD which is 150ft-lbs of torque. with a capacity of 400# or more, your looking for something higher end than the typical recreational boat market. something much higher than the ABYC standards http://www.springfieldgrp.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/ABYC_Page_web.pdf

your looking at companies like Stidd, Pompanette and Todd for pedestals with that rating.

also keep this in mind when you build the floor bracing. especially if using for underway. with 400# capacity with a CG about 26" above the deck, for dynamic loading, you will have thrust loads between 600# and 700# vertically, a moment of about 1300 ft lb and a torque of about 250lb-ft

regarding the Glastron, if your replacing the floor, you also need to replace the transom and stringers as the floor is ALWAYS the last thing to rot.

 

[roscoe]

You'd be better off $ wise with a box type seat base.

Given the inherent stringer and transom issues with an old glass boat, you might want to rethink the old glastrom boat, and consider an aluminum hull with solid bench type seat to start with. Upholstered seats can be added on top.

Or something like a Starcraft MR180. center console with 2 solid bases.



Keep in mind total weight capacity is going to need to be 1200-1400# for people, gear, motor, and fuel.

 

[jhande]

Thanks guys for the replies and help!
I've been searching for quite a while to find something I could afford, not a total POS and that I could fix up myself. I'm 61 and been both an auto tech and carpenter.
The boat in question is a 1978 Glastron Skiflite 16'. Came on a fairly new galvanized trailer with new lights and he installed new tires and rims the day I picked it up (I watched him). It has a Mercury 500 50HP hanging on the back. The boat looked like it was "all" redone a couple years ago. Transom is solid, fiberglass does not have any stress cracks any where. It has a new paint job/gel coat finish. The only soft spot in the floor is where the mushroom anchor was always dropped in the bow. The seats could be reupholstered but I don't want forward/rearward facing seats. The carpeting isn't total junk but stinks. I'm planning on stripping the floor and/or stringers out and rebuilding the floor. I'm going to build a built-in live well under the rear facing bow seat and add a step up deck from the consoles forward.

The seating plans were to have a fishing seat for & aft on a pedestal with locking swivels. I might just make new boxes for the driver & passenger seat for storage under them???





The fishing seats I picked which has good reviews everywhere - Millennium Marine
I would even mind making a stronger version of the Attwood pedestal seat post

I have 2 metal supply shops near by and I can weld.

So now I need the 2 locking swivels for the fishing seats and "maybe" 2 locking swivels for the driver & passenger seats. Still not sure what I'm going to do for the D&P seats??? Was even considering cutting off the rearward facing seats and reupholster the forward facing seats. The height of the boxes they sit on is only 4" off the floor. I'm 6'-3' so I'll have to have leg room and hope I can get up from sitting that low.

P.S. My son went with me to check it out. He crawled all around it, even under it to make sure it was solid. He even walked, well stomped, all over the floor. With his 400lbs the floor was fine. Also... The boat will probably be just for me going out solo fishing in local lakes and ponds, maybe the CT river, maybe. Once and awhile my wife or son will head out with me.

P.P.S. I talked the guy down to $400. for the whole deal.

 

[Scott Danforth]

you currently have back-to-back seats which are extremely common on boats from the 60s-90's

as stated, the floor is always the last to rot.

if when you pull the carpet up, you find a layer of fiberglass on the floor, it is the original floor. if you pull the carpet up and there is wood under there, then someone did a deck-over. which is the shady equivalent of a used car dealer using the sunday comics, 2 gallons of bondo and a rattle can of paint to make a car look good when it is in reality a POS.

tri-hull boats are very rough riding in anything over a 6" chop.

as you have questions, ask, we will help.

 

[gm280]

Since you already have plans to remove the floor and such, make absolutely sure when you rebuild the sub-floor area around both seats, that those areas can handle such weight. If that means adding a much more substantial bulkhead/stringer construction, then do that. Such sub-floor structure is not a place to cut corners for those seats to be solid. And you may want to think about solidly built box-type seat structures on top of the flooring to support the seat. And if you can, work some storage into those box designs to offer a little storage. Remember, the further you go out from the center swivel, the more weight it can support as well. And that is because you are spreading the total weight over a larger area of the floor. JMHO

 

[jhande]

Thanks Scott.
I already have the mindset that I'll be replacing everything above the fiberglass. That way I'm not surprised LOL.

Not to worried about over 6" chops. My local lakes and ponds don't get too choppy. If it does I'm heading home as my busted up old spine can't handle it very well. That's why I jumped ship from canoes. After about 15 minutes I'm crippled up and in serious pain for days.

It would be nice if this boat works out for me for the rest of my fishing life. But if not I can sell it for a profit and look for something else. My wife has been bugging me to get a pontoon boat but I can't see me lugging that around when it's just me going fishing, plus they're way expensive used.

 

[jhande]

gm280... I'll probably over build the substructure, definitely want it strong. If I go the box and seat route I will build for storage and strength.

I've gone over a few design ideas, some wood structure and some aluminum structure. Will be topping it with 3/4" plywood sealed with fiberglass resin and maybe finished with enamel paint. Not using carpet, maybe a skid finished paint/gel coat. Also looking into non-skid marine matting.

 

[roffey]

sounds like you have it under control. Post some pictures with your progress...

 

[jhande]

It won't be until spring when the weather warms up. I already have a blanket of snow and cold temps - 28F. No garage or heated basement to work with plywood and fiberglass.

Since I only get $258 a month on SSI I have to save and buy when I can. So I'll stock pile the parts and materials during the winter. Maybe I can get my son to help strip it during the winter. Then come spring I can start rebuilding.

I will gladly post pics of the progress.

 

[gm280]

gm280... I'll probably over build the substructure, definitely want it strong. If I go the box and seat route I will build for storage and strength.

I've gone over a few design ideas, some wood structure and some aluminum structure. Will be topping it with 3/4" plywood sealed with fiberglass resin and maybe finished with enamel paint. Not using carpet, maybe a skid finished paint/gel coat. Also looking into non-skid marine matting.

If you want to see my box seat ideas, click on my boat thread listed below and have a look. I did make the box type seat arrangement with the storage. The front seat holds the trolling motor battery box setup and some additional storage. And the rear seat storage is basically dry storage. I honestly don't think you could sledge-hammer them off. I used stainless steel full length piano hinges for both of them with stainless steel hardware. And they are fiber glassed on with many inside and outside 1708 layers with polyester resin. Amazing how solid they are. The entire boxes are covered inside and out with fiber glass and polyester resin as well. Just an idea...

 

[jhande]

If you want to see my box seat ideas, click on my boat thread listed below and have a look.

I started going through your boat rebuild thread, going to take me days LOL. God bless you! Now that I'm an old fart I couldn't undertake such a big project any more. Replacing my stringers and floor is enough for me. But I'll have fun running the plumbing and making a live well.

When I was younger it wasn't unusual for me to restore my old muscle cars from the ground up. Of course I had to rebuild the motors for more power.

 

[JimS123]

You need to research the boat specifications thoroughly. There should be a plate that shows max HP and weights. 730 pounds might be close to the safe capacity and adding more weight might be dangerous.

 

[froggy1150]

$250 might cover a 5 gal bucket of resin. I went thru 10? I think for my 21' cuddy. Then add glass cloth,ppe,consumables and other supplies.... i would work out the budget before getting too deep and not being able to finish and not being able to sell cuz you cut it up.

 

[Scott Danforth]

i agree with Frogy, I would set asside about $3000 for this project (all materials and PPE)

 

[jhande]

You need to research the boat specifications thoroughly. There should be a plate that shows max HP and weights. 730 pounds might be close to the safe capacity and adding more weight might be dangerous.

Thanks Jim, already been on it.

• Boat weight - 725 lbs
• Max capacity - 1,350 lbs
• Max HP - 100
• Normal speed range - 85hp 37-41mph

The most people weight at one time would be 730 lbs.
5 gallons of gas 30 lbs plus tank weight.
Engine starting battery about 30-40 lbs.
20 gallon live well, about 166 lbs.
So far I'm at 966 lbs, still have 384 lbs left for 2 new fishing seats/pedestals, 2 tackle boxes, 2-4 fishing poles, a fish landing net, 15-20 lb anchor and a fire extinguisher. Hoping someday to add a bow trolling motor and a fish finder.
I'm not planning on going over weight when replacing the flooring. Basically replacing what is there and bad with new/same so the weight should be somewhat similar and deleting the carpet.

 

[jhande]

I'm still searching for the best price on resin and yes that's going to be a big chunk of change along with the matting. The wood isn't to bad though.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I'm still searching for the best price on resin and yes that's going to be a big chunk of change along with the matting. The wood isn't to bad though.

where are you located? there may be a local fiberglass supply house. that would be cheaper than shipping as you get hit with EPA fees for shipping resin.

 

[gm280]

Not sure where you are, but lots of iboaters use US Composite out of Florida for their polyester resins and fiberglass materials. A very good company that sells FRESH resins that haven't been sitting on a shelf somewhere. And that is a very important issue as well.