heavy faded gelcoat around lettering- help!

[piratedude]

bought used boat that had a supid name on the transom with plastic lettering. i removed it but the gelcoat is faded and i can still see the old name...will simple buffing take this out? heavy buffing? sanding and regelcoating?

 

[swimmin' for shore]

Re: heavy faded gelcoat around lettering- help!

There are a lot of options here. The consensus as I've seen it would be to use about 1,000 grit sandpaper. I believe I would wetsand the whole transom area real well. After that, use your buffing compound and buff it out really well. Gelcoat is thicker than regular paint, so it's easier to restore without wearing your paint thin.

 

[waterone1@aol.com]

Re: heavy faded gelcoat around lettering- help!

I "second" the wet sanding approach. If it is really bad you might have to go down to 600 gritt first, then 1000, then buff.

 

[CalicoKid]

Re: heavy faded gelcoat around lettering- help!

And if it's really, really bad you could go to 400 grit, then 600, then buff.

 

[Terry H]

Re: heavy faded gelcoat around lettering- help!

and if it's really, really, really bad, you could start with 180 wetordry.

 

[waterone1@aol.com]

Re: heavy faded gelcoat around lettering- help!

Come on guy's, was that humor ? Seriously, the "last" or finest sanding has to be at least 1000(or higher) or you will never get the sandpaper scratches out when buffing. Unless you plan on re-gelcoating, I cannot possibly picture using something as coarse as 180 grit.

 

[waterone1@aol.com]

Re: heavy faded gelcoat around lettering- help!

Bounder, Just curious what compound you use ?<br />I've tried all of the 3M marine products and haven't been too happy with them for "tough" jobs.<br />I have "settled" on Mequires super diamond cut 2.0. I'm always looking for something "better".

 

[bounder4465]

Re: heavy faded gelcoat around lettering- help!

If you use the proper compound there is no need to water sand. If you are using automotive compounds...then your final sanding will need to be 1000+ just like waterone1 posted.

 

[bounder4465]

Re: heavy faded gelcoat around lettering- help!

Water1 if you can use a buffer email me at bounder4465@yahoo.com and I will share my knowledge with you. It is not a big secret, or voodoo stuff...just the proper compound to use on gelcoat.

 

[JustMrWill]

Re: heavy faded gelcoat around lettering- help!

Bounder4465,<br />Can you share your knowledge to all of us too? I have some oxydation on my boat that I was thinking of sanding off and buffing. If you don't want to post your opinion...please email me it at justmrwill@yahoo.com

 

[Terry H]

Re: heavy faded gelcoat around lettering- help!

Waterone1, I've done thousands of patches and repairs in gelcoat and sometimes you have to start with 60grit. Sometimes you start with finer paper depending on the damage or patch. I almost always finish with 1200-1500wetordry before buffing. And I don't know what brand the buffing compound I use since it is supplied by the companies that I do the warranty work for, but it is suposedly gender specific. After I use the 1500 grit paper seldom even a need to buff, unless in the highest of visible areas. just a thought

 

[waterone1@aol.com]

Re: heavy faded gelcoat around lettering- help!

Chief, If you look at the original question or post, he was asking about FADED gellcoat, not patches or repairs. Sure, if you are trying to remove vast quanities of material, start real course.I don't mean to dissagree with you, I just don't want some guy who has never worked with gellcoat to attack it to agressively, and get into trouble (as in thru gellcoat, down to glass).

 

[John Carpenter]

Re: heavy faded gelcoat around lettering- help!

I have buffed out my share & my experience with areas where you can see a shadow from old lettering is that there is an actual difference in thickness of the gelcoat. The area that was protected by the letters is actually raised slightly & you can feel it with your fingertips. I may need to try a coarser compound, but I have had no luck buffing these areas out. It is quicker and easier to wet sand if it is really noticeable. I would start with 400 and finish with 1000/1200 grit....then buff.