head gasket sealant

mgbrasher

Recruit
Joined
Jun 14, 2003
Messages
2
1973 Johnson 6hp:<br /><br />Due to previous overheating problems (waterpump replacement fixed this issue) that caused discolored powerhead, I've decided to replace the head gasket. The Clymer manual for this model suggests using an OMC gasket sealant, but my local dealer doesn't carry that. He does carry a pint-size tub ($18) of Quicksilver gasket sealant, but I will never use all that sealant. Can anyone recommend an alternative sealant that will substitute and might be obtained in a smaller, less expensive container? Will any gasket sealant suffice?<br /><br />Also, given that the motor has previously overheated, should I consider replacing any of the other gaskets associated with the powerhead or just leave well-enough alone? <br /><br />Thanks..
 

jim dozier

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jan 8, 2003
Messages
1,970
Re: head gasket sealant

If the engine isn't currently overheating, if you have no evidence of water in your cylinders, and if your compression is good and each cylinder is within 10% of the others, I wouldn't replace the head gasket.
 

St. Bennett

Cadet
Joined
Jun 15, 2003
Messages
21
Re: head gasket sealant

Go to your local napa auto parts store or other car care center ask for a sealant that can withstand heats of up to 180 degrees. Your engine should not run as hot as a car engine so you should be fine.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: head gasket sealant

Bobo.... The following should be of interest to you.<br /><br />(Gasket Sealers)<br /><br />Do Not use any type of sealer on outboard carburetor or intake manifold gaskets as this would cause blockage of various fuel/air passageways. Also, there are new type gaskets which are used through out the engines that are coated with a substance that gives a shinny appearance to them. These gaskets are coated with a self sealer and are to be installed as is.... no sealers! Older style head and fuel related gaskets that are not coated with this substance are to be simply coated with oil.... nothing else.<br /> <br />All other gaskets (hopefully I've not overlooked anything above) should be coated with Gasket Sealer (the type that comes in a can that has a small brush in its screw off cap).<br /> <br />Sealer 1000 or OMC Adhesive (same substance) should be used on any metal to metal or metal to plastic surface (such as impeller hsg to plate) to eliminate air leaks. It should also be used on the Spaghetti tubing that is used on many powerhead crankcase halves, lower unit skegs, etc. I have found that this substance works quite well on various "O" Rings such as what are found on lower unit carrier and upper driveshaft bearing housings (Note that this substance is obviously not to be used on all "O" Rings).<br /> <br />DO NOT use any sealer on the large "O" Rings that are used on the upper and lower crankcase heads (The housing/heads that slide over the top and bottom of the crankshaft). On those "O" Rings, use only a coating of grease.<br /> <br />Sealer 1000 may also be found in other brand names such as "Boat Armor" but the name of Sealer 1000 will always be mentioned on the tube.<br /> <br />The exception of surface to surface contacts pertains to the later model matching crankcase (block) halves (which does not incorporate spaghetti tubing) which call for "Gel-Seal", or any other surface that calls for Gel-Seal. This substance seals in the absense of air, and if called for, must be used. One other form of Gel Seal that can be substituted is "Loctite #518". Nothing else that I know of will do!<br /><br />I advise against using silicone or permatex on a outboard engine. It simply will not function properly. The exception to this (as per OMC's recommendation), is to use the black Permatex (heavily) on the gasket 306242 which seperates the inner exhaust tube from the exhaust housing on the 1959 35hp and 1960 to 1970 40hp OMC outboards
 
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