Harness issues

[Boyle1986]

So what I’m understanding is I can cut the end of the new controls off and run them directly to motor bus bars and will run a seperate set of battery wires to a ground and starrier cylanoid thus bypassing a wireing harness all togather?

 

[Chris1956]

You could probably do that, however, without knowing exactly what motor year you have, I do not know for sure if it will work.

Hardwiring the wiring to the motor would make it difficult to remove the motor from the boat, without disconnecting the wires at the various parts of the motor. A plug at the engine that mates with the boat harness would be much better, even if it is just bullet connectors.

If it were me, I would look at a wiring diagram of an engine with the skinny 7 pin plug and see what what wires it has, versus what wires you need to operate your motor. You probably don't need engine killer wire, but probably need ignition power to run your ignition system. It is a guess..

 

[Boyle1986]

So I just hard wired it in but I’m not sure why I’d doesn’t try to turn over I have 13 V at the battery wire then nothing on the sylanoid and nothing when I turn the key?

 

[Chris1956]

The neutral safety switch must close for power to go to the starter solenoid. Make sure the control is in neutral, and make sure power is getting to the starter solenoid, when you turn the key.

The positive battery cable should run to one of the large posts on the starter solenoid. This power runs back to the ign key via the red or red/purple wire (whichever you have) in the boat harness. Therefore that power wire in the harness must connect to the battery cable. They are not usually fused, but you might put a fuse there for safety.

The solenoid also requires a ground on one of the small posts, and the yellow/red solenoid wire on the other small post.

The starter usually has a ground cable from it to the block, since they are usually mounted in rubber. They do not last forever.