Glastron V-147 Project

[aborgman]

Now that I found out I have bad stringers, as well as the bad transom and deck, I figured I might as well make a full on project thread with pictures and a running cost total, etc.

The boat is a Glastron V-147 Fish 'N Ski. I bought it with a "good running" 1966 Mercury 500 (we'll see if it is when I get a chance to play with it), an older foot controlled Minn-Kota trolling motor, trailer, plus other various bits and pieces.

Total cost: $520

Hmmm... transom doesn't feel good - and I need to do the deck. Better pull the cap and get a look at everything.

So how does the transom look? Not great,

--
Aaron

 

[aborgman]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

Better tear the floor out:

...and get that foam out...

Some real nice glasswork on the rotting away stringers,

--
Aaron

 

[aborgman]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

Transom plans:

The original transom was built as follows -

Where B is a piece of 2x6 dimensional, C is 3/4" plywood. Both are partially glassed in.

My plan is to go across the entire transom area with a transom made of 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood. Layed up as follows:

With the 1708 biax connecting into the rest of the deck/hull/stringers.

--
Aaron

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

Be sure to include the part that goes down into the bilge. It adds strength, and gives enough thinkness so you can put in a proper drain. Also, consider enlarging the drain hole at the front of the bilge. It clogs easily, allowing water to build up in the hull area.

 

[aborgman]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

Stringers:

The original stringers were put together like so:

Basically mat from the hull and partway up the each side of the dimensional 1"x4" - the a complete wrap from one side to the other with light cloth.

My idea for the stringers is as follows -

1) Soak 3/4" plywood stringer with resin
2) Wrap stringer with 1.5oz mat
3) Bed stringer
4) Run layer of mat from hull up and over stringer.
5) Run layer of 1708 biax from hull up and over stringer.

--
Aaron

 

[aborgman]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

Be sure to include the part that goes down into the bilge. It adds strength, and gives enough thinkness so you can put in a proper drain.

The new transom will cover the entire rear - so it will also cover that area, although it will now be 2x 3/4" thick as opposed to the current 3/4".

Also, consider enlarging the drain hole at the front of the bilge. It clogs easily, allowing water to build up in the hull area.

Planned to - also planning on adding drain holes through the stringers so water can get from the outside cavities to the bilge, and possibly kneeing the stringers around the bilge to add more support.

--
Aaron

 

[aborgman]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

Started tearing out the transom last night - I got the upper dimensional piece out, along with its fiberglass shelf holding it in on the bottom.

Started thinking about the deck. I think this is my current plan of action:

1) Coat 1/2" ply with resin
2) layer of 1.5oz mat on both sides of 1/2" ply
3) Put in place and screw down - strips of wetted mat between deck and stringers.
4) glass to hull flange - first course, 1.5 oz mat strips with 4" overlap onto deck and hull.
5) Glass to hull flange with 1708 biax - 8" overlap onto hull and deck.
6) Glass entire deck with 9-10oz cloth, overlap 4" onto hull

--
Aaron

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

That looks like it should work just fine. Where you'll put seats, though, I'd double up the thickness under the seats and maybe even install hardware to match your bases from below.

Are you keeping the console and live well assembly?

 

[aborgman]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

That looks like it should work just fine. Where you'll put seats, though, I'd double up the thickness under the seats and maybe even install hardware to match your bases from below.

I was planning on putting a layer of 3/4" ply under any sections where screws will be going through.

Are you keeping the console and live well assembly?

Yeah - although I may get rid of the front livewell.

--
Aaron

 

[oops!]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

aaron....i was going over yout stringer layup shcedule......it all looks really good....

there is a small problem as glass does not like to go round outside corners....
you will get a large air pocket on top of the stringer. air will make it weak.


i know that the next time i do a stringer job, glassing over 3/4 ply, im going to add a doweling cut in half on each side of the stringer.

there is a diagram in the hull ext thread.....

another way is just to glass the sides of the stringer and add a small layer on top of the stringer.....that process is called capping.....its not very strong

.............

that looks like a fun project....and your mate looks like a salty chap to help you!

cheers
oops

 

[aborgman]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

aaron....i was going over yout stringer layup shcedule......it all looks really good....

there is a small problem as glass does not like to go round outside corners....
you will get a large air pocket on top of the stringer. air will make it weak.


i know that the next time i do a stringer job, glassing over 3/4 ply, im going to add a doweling cut in half on each side of the stringer.

there is a diagram in the hull ext thread.....

I thought about that... my hope is that the two layers of mat before the layer of biax will add enough "bulk" to the corner so that the biax can make it without bubbleing.

I'll probably do some small scale experiments to see how it goes.

another way is just to glass the sides of the stringer and add a small layer on top of the stringer.....that process is called capping.....its not very strong

It would almost certainly be stronger than what was there originally...

that looks like a fun project....and your mate looks like a salty chap to help you!

Oh, the littlest one loves to help.

--
Aaron

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

I was planning on putting a layer of 3/4" ply under any sections where screws will be going through.



Yeah - although I may get rid of the front livewell.

--
Aaron

I used that for storage, something there isn't enough of on that boat. Kept an anchor and spare prop in there, along with my tool roll.

 

[oops!]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

unfortunatly the two layers of matt wont help....btdt....

anf the problem with capping is the resin rich area between the stringer main glass area and the cap....its really weak and allmost not worth doing.

i highly suggest the dowell idea...it will take 1 more hour total for the project. make glassing a breeze and it will add super stregnth and more stability for the deck....

cheers
oops

 

[Mark42]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

I love it when I see members making plans and diagrams. A sure sign that the project will be completed and well done. Your plans look great.

BTW, a word of caution about using fiberglass mat: Mat has a binding agent in it to make the fibers stick together. Its not compatable with epoxy. I have not yet found an epoxy compatable mat for use with my project. So unless the mat you get specifically says its compatable with epoxy, skip it.

Of course, if you ues poly or vinylester resin, it won't matter.

Good luck!

 

[aborgman]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

unfortunatly the two layers of matt wont help....btdt....

anf the problem with capping is the resin rich area between the stringer main glass area and the cap....its really weak and allmost not worth doing.

i highly suggest the dowell idea...it will take 1 more hour total for the project. make glassing a breeze and it will add super stregnth and more stability for the deck....

cheers
oops

I'm certainly considering it - how much of a radius do you thin kit needs on the half round? 1/2" seems like it would be more than enough.

--
Aaron

 

[aborgman]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

I love it when I see members making plans and diagrams. A sure sign that the project will be completed and well done. Your plans look great.

I can't guarantee it will be well done, but it will definitely be well planned. Years as an engineer kind of lead to that.

BTW, a word of caution about using fiberglass mat: Mat has a binding agent in it to make the fibers stick together. Its not compatable with epoxy. I have not yet found an epoxy compatable mat for use with my project. So unless the mat you get specifically says its compatable with epoxy, skip it.

Of course, if you ues poly or vinylester resin, it won't matter.

Good luck!

My plan is to use poly - It is what little fiberglassing experience I have was with, and it's cheaper.

--
Aaron

 

[Mark42]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

My plan is to use poly - It is what little fiberglassing experience I have was with, and it's cheaper.

--
Aaron

Vinylester is a better resin than polyester, and they cost the same. Vinylester has better water resistance, less prone to stress cracking and holds up to UV rays better. At least thats what I have read. I used vinylester and can't tell a difference from polyester.

 

[aborgman]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

Vinylester is a better resin than polyester, and they cost the same. Vinylester has better water resistance, less prone to stress cracking and holds up to UV rays better. At least thats what I have read. I used vinylester and can't tell a difference from polyester.

If they cost the same, I'd probably use vinylester - as it is it looks like about $130/5 gallons for poly and $163/5 gallons vinylester. That is a good $100+ more just in resin cost for what I'm doing.

--
Aaron

 

[aborgman]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

Transom plans:

My plan is to go across the entire transom area with a transom made of 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood. Layed up as follows:

With the 1708 biax connecting into the rest of the deck/hull/stringers.

Transom fiberglass estimates:

Step 1: Glue 2 pieces of 3/4" ply. Two pieces - 63"x24" rectangle. Glass requirement: 63"x24" = 10.5 sq. ft. mat.

Step 2: Glue wood to outer skin. Use estimated transom size:

Area of estimated transom = (59"x15.5")+(2*(.5*(29.5"*5.5"))) ~= 7.5 sq. ft.

Use 7.5 sq. ft. mat.

Step 3: Attach transom to hull with mat, 4" overlap. Require strips ~8" wide.

2 strips - 8"x17.5" (15.5 side length + 2")
2 strips - 8"x32" (30" angled portion + 2")

= 5.5 sq. ft. mat.

Step 4: Attach transom to hull with 1708 biax, 4" overlap.

Require strips ~8" wide.

2 strips - 8"x17.5" (15.5 side length + 2")
2 strips - 8"x32" (30" angled portion + 2")

= 5.5 sq. ft. 1708 biax.

Step 5: Cover face of transom with 1708 biax

Area of estimated transom ~= 7.5 sq. ft.

Use 7.5 sq. ft. 1708 biax.

Totals:

Mat: 10.5 sq. ft. + 7.5 sq. ft. + 5.5 sq. ft. = 23.5 sq. ft.

Biax: 5.5 sq. ft. + 7.5 sq. ft. = 13 sq. ft.

Resin: ((23.5 sq. ft.)*(4oz/sq. ft.)*(1 gallon/128oz)) + ((13 sq. ft.)*(1 gallon/36 sq. ft.)) ~= 1.1 gallon

--
Aaron

 

[aborgman]

Re: Glastron V-147 Project

My idea for the stringers is as follows -

Stringer fiberglass estimate:

Step 1: Soak 3/4" plywood stringers with resin

Step 2: Wrap stringer with 1.5oz mat

Long stringers: 4x36"x5" strip + 1x6"x5" strip per side per stringer
= 16x36"x5" + 4x6"x5" = 20.9 sq. ft. mat

Short stringers: 2x37"x5" strip per side per stringer
=8x37"x5" = 10.3 sq. ft. mat

Step 3: Bed stringer

Step 4: Run layer of mat from hull up and over stringer.

To get 4" overlap on hull and wrap on 1"x4" strips must be 17" wide.

Long stringers: 4x36"x17" strip + 1x6"x17" per stringer
= 8x36"x17" + 2x6"x17" = 35.4 sq. ft. mat

Short stringers: 2x37"x17" strip per stringer
= 4x37"x17" = 17.5 sq. ft. mat.

Step 5: Run layer of 1708 biax from hull up and over stringer.

To get 6" overlap on hull and wrap on 1"x4" strips must be 21" wide.

Long stringers: 4x36"x21" strip + 1x6"x21" per stringer
= 8x36"x21" + 2x6"x21" = 43.8 sq. ft. biax

Short stringers: 2x37"x21" strip per stringer
= 4x37"x21" = 21.6 sq. ft. biax.

Totals:

Mat: 20.9 + 10.3 + 35.4 + 17.5 = 84.1 sq. ft. mat.

Biax: 43.8 + 21.6 = 65.4 sq. ft. biax.

Resin: ((84.1 sq. ft.)*(4oz/sq. ft.)*(1 gallon/128oz)) + ((65.4 sq. ft.)*(1 gallon/36 sq. ft.)) ~= 4.5 gallons

--
Aaron