"Glassing" wooden deck

[QC]

I am looking at a possible big project boat. I am fairly serious and have found a home built Glen-L plan, Monaco, that is unfinished and a reasonable deal I think. Anyway, here is a pic of a finished one:

The one I am looking at:

This pic is a few years old, it has been sitting, and the deck veneer has separated from the deck. I would have to refinish the rest of the hull and that would be relatively easy. The deck veneer needs to be completely redone, which leads to my question. Glen-L recommends that the veneer is glued on and then you lay a thin sheet of fiberglass cloth over it and then epoxy over that, finally coat with Varnish. The guy who is selling it says that you should skip the glass and properly finish it for a better shine and that the cloth method makes it look dingy. Frankly skipping the cloth sounds easier and I am not worried about strength. The main deck structure is very stout. Sooooo, what is the right/best method for doing new veneer decks?

If I do this I am going to change the look to something more like the completed one ^^^^ as I do not like the gold . . . Almost all of the pieces are there, including a trailer, engine, trans, mounts and deck fixtures. I am y be biting off a big project, but I think I could make a buck or two and do a great project with my boys. I am not going in with blinders on, but will need some help with the woodworking ideas/methods. Thanks.

 

[Mark42]

Re: "Glassing" wooden deck

The glass cloth will be invisible once the epoxy hardens. The purpose of the glass/epoxy step is to create a very durable and lasting water proof epoxy coating on the boat. You can skip it, but unless you plan on keeping the boat in a museum, I would coat the entire boat with epoxy and glass.

Nice boat, well worth the efforts to finish. Then use the heck out of it!

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Re: "Glassing" wooden deck

Personally id skip the fiberglassing, glueing it down if done correctly would give it all strength that would ever be needed. Lot's of sanding there QC, as to finishing google hot varnishing, you can get a finish that is unbelieveable..........I believe Interlux make's a clear product that has the same quality's as there Perfection paint if so that would be my choice.....

Indeed they do


Product Description

Perfection Varnish is a clear, two part linear polyurethane coating for wood and epoxy.

• Brushes easily with excellent leveling properties
• Hardens into an extremely tough high gloss
• Weather resistant clear coating
• Perfection Varnish also uses the latest technology in ultra-violet protection to resist sun damage for maximum longevity

If that stuff has the same propertie's as there paint.........just use a foam roller and you will get a finish that will stun you for the amount of work you have to put in it...

 

[QC]

Re: "Glassing" wooden deck

So TG, if I glue down the veneer (all methods) then sanded, you are suggesting I could go straight to that Interlux two part varnish and even skip an epoxy coat?

I could barely see the cloth if I looked closely at any portions of the deck that were undamaged and finished well, so I understood what they guy was saying. Also, I would love to skip any steps that I can by buying quality stuff as long as I am not short changing the next owner. I would only do this project to sell it. Just not right for where we boat although there are a few Mountain lakes where "Classics" are popular. One is Lake Arrowhead that you may have seen due to the fires there last week . . .

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Re: "Glassing" wooden deck

The laminate provide's no structure, so why cloth?.... If you want to go that extra marign you could, but i can see no benefit. I guess you could glue it down with West System's to eliminate any posssible worries from moisture.........

As to the wood finish...... that's up to you...really all one can do is stain it to a color or contrast you like and if you use Perfection it's a two part poly and very tough stuff..........far stronger than any varnish,what else could be needed..... See if you can get a opinion from Ondarvr, the guy has a vast amount of working knowledge with glass and boat's.

 

[THE BEEF]

Re: "Glassing" wooden deck

It is a wood boat treat it with respect. No glass. If you have a question about varnishing it Give SkiffCraft Boats a call. Ask for Bill Binsford .
They Build 26 and 31 foot Boats all wood. There web site is skiffcraftboats.com.
They have pictures of boats being built in different stages.
BEEF

 

[THE BEEF]

Re: "Glassing" wooden deck

Sorry didn't mean to be so critical earlier. I have had wooden boats now 30 years. I just hate to see someone mess up a nice boat. I done it my self one time with glass and screwed it up.
What you have is a great project. To me working on them is a labor of love.
BEEF

 

[QC]

Re: "Glassing" wooden deck

Thanks BEEF. No prah. I am leaning toward no glass. The second pic above is the actual boat, but the **** poor job on the deck has delaminated in some spots. Anyway, I go to look at her again tonight. I think I can get it done in time for next season although my plan is to sell her after a few joy rides. All boats deserve love, wood ones a little bit more. If she comes home with me, she will be treated properly . . .

If I pull the trigger, I'll be looking for lots of help and will post a lot of pics etc. Thanks all.

 

[kalla man]

Re: "Glassing" wooden deck

in most cases glassing the deck is not for structural reasons. like mark said it is to provide a lasting, DURABLE, waterproof coating. the cloth/resin provides a surface that is MUCH more resistant to dings,scratches, and wear..that may crack varnish..allowing water in....killer boat tho, whatever you do keep us posted.

 

[MarkV_Deep6]

Re: "Glassing" wooden deck

In my youth I had a bit of experience with glassing over a wooden boat. NEVER again.
A job like yours would require great expertise to make it turn out anything like the completed boat you posted. Check out tail gunners suggestion, search the board, look at some of his and other's results useing the two part epoxy paint.

And lastly keep the progress pic's comming!

 

[QC]

Re: "Glassing" wooden deck

Well I looked at her again last night and the cloth is visible on the hull sides and transom in many spots too This is changing the approach ideas some. I am now leaning towards more paint and/or some cosmetic fixes to the sides and transom. An all paint scheme might look like this:

In either example I would still redo the entire deck. I do NOT want to re-plank the sides, maybe I would do the transom. I could probably clean up the visible cloth in many spots with some streaky stain application, but it would be hit and miss and I guess mostly miss.

Would it be sacrilege to consider Mahogany plywood sheets on the deck and then run very shallow grooves into it filled with white colored epoxy to simulate the planking? I saw one boat on-line where the guy actually used plywood sheets and then auto pin-striping tape and finished on top of that Seems pretty Mickey Mouse to me, but it looked pretty good.

The whole boat has been assembled with epoxy resin between layers, so it is water protected as is. If that two part super varnish stuff will do the deck justice, and protect it, then I have no preconceived requirement to use any epoxy except as an adhesive.

I am looking at three scenarios 1) Low sell price and simple restoration/construction techniques, but decent quality so it can age decently with good maintenance. 2) Somewhat higher sell price, with 8" - 10 " wide solid mahogany deck planks, but grooved and filled like the plywood idea. 3) Premium sell price and premium quality. Individual 2.5" deck planks with epoxy filler between. Higher end stuff all around. I imagine even scenario 1 would look close to the quality of the first boat, but may not be quite as durable and have a few less bells and whistles. No stereo, fewer deck fixtures, Carbed instead of an EFI upgrade etc. I am leaning towards scenario 1 though as this is my first wood boat and I am not building one for me to keep for a lifetime. Would still insist on being able to face the new owner in 10 years considering he knows how to take care of a wood boat.

Edit: BTW, the current owner has collected a lot of vintage deck fixtures, old auto steering wheel (similar to the one shown on this post), column and steering gear, vintage guages, floor shifter, vintage running lights, cleats, stainless rub rail pieces, deck lid handles etc. etc. I just have to make one big trip to the chrome shop to get them all looking fresh. The engine even "looks" kinda vintage with polished log style manifolds, chrome valve covers. I'll post some pics as soon as my ISP gets my personal webpage running again.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Re: "Glassing" wooden deck

I would not go cheap on the wood QC, it is the defining quality of the boat. With the market as down as it is i would be schocked if you couldnt find some deal's on wood...... However i would take a microscope out and check every inch of wood out for defect's and add them all togeher to come up with a conclusion.

Doing a wood boat require's much more patience that a glass boat........id say double the work or maybe even 3 time's the work (prep)...........But when done right they stand in a class know glass boat can reach..

Now if it were mine, definatley carbed, definatley loud exhaust, nice steering wheel, no stereo, nice flag........simple beautiful fast and loud........Umm i have to go now, i'm starting to dream up a vision........not good for TG to do...

 

[QC]

Re: "Glassing" wooden deck

I would not go cheap on the wood QC, it is the defining quality of the boat. With the market as down as it is i would be schocked if you couldnt find some deal's on wood......

I wouldn't do anything unless it was right. With that said, I got a quote for the Mahogany, pre-cut into 1/8 inch veneers. 120 ft. 8" width . . . $1400 Let's just say I am looking for options. That was from a mega lumber yard, using their mill. Where would you guys go to find long veneers like that? 7 footers, would be the minimum preference to do this right. I really don't want to cut them myself if I can avoid it.

At 8" I reduce the number of true joints, groove them in thirds to look like three 2.6 ~ inch planks.