Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

[PeterB26]

I pulled my drive leg and found some signs of water intrusion into the U-joint bellows. No water entered the boat (sits on a mooring) and U-joints were not rusted, so the intrusion was minor, but enough to pooch the gimbal bearing.

It looks like cooling water got in where the raw water port O-ring seals between the bell housing and the drive. But just to eliminate any question I will be doing my u-joint bellows when I tackle the gimbal bearing.

I have read and researched this job both on the net and in the manual but I still am left with a few questions particularly where it comes to removing the bell housing.

I guess first question is about removal of the bell housing: Is it actually necessary if you are just replacing he gimbal bearing? What about just the U-joint bellows? This question is more for my curiosity though because I am planning on taking the bell housing off anyway… unless I shouldn’t because it will add to my troubles.

That brings me to bell housing removal questions: First no one mentions the remote oil reservoir line. It seems like this should come off from the bell housing end, but maybe from the gimbal housing end? The fittings may be plastic. Do these parts break easily? Should I have spares in hand before I start? Are there tricks or tips I should know? When in the overall sequence should I disconnect this bugger?

Then there is the shift cable. One article says to just pull a little slack in the cable through the shift bellows (undo clamp on bellows first.) Do people just leave the cable in place on the bell housing and balance the bell housing, cable still attached, while working on it? That seems nuts because you could easily damage the shift cable, but maybe I’m being too Pollyanna.

If you do remove the shift cable is it useful to pull a string through with it from inside when you remove the old cable? It looks like getting the thing to go back in without a helper inside the boat might be tough and this might be a partial answer.

If you have to take the shift cable out shouldn’t you just replace the shift cable bellows? Seems easy to do “while you are there,” a huge problem to do later. Unless I am missing something again.

Raw water hose: I read about how easily this goes together: Like take a Valium before you start… Any tips?

Lastly, any tips on order of reassembly of the oil line and shift cable or other parts? As in better to do before or after fitting the bellows.
What first-timer mistakes do I need to be aware of? What is going to break or kink or screw up if I’m not extra careful?

Thanks in advance.

Peter

 

[Don S]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

What outdrive do you have?

 

[PeterB26]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

DOH! :facepalm:

Alpha 1 Gen II
recent vintage
OM 83xxxx (transom unit)
OM 47xxxx (outdrive)


Merc 3.0L (181 cu in) motors. 130 HP.

Peter

 

[Don S]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

Here is a link to the oem service manual. It will answer your questions.

 

[PeterB26]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

Don,

Thanks for the link.

I own and I have read the Merc manual. Also some aftermarket manuals. Also many on-line articles.
My questions are not specifcally addressed. For instance there is no mention of the best way to disconnect the oil reservoir hose... only how to reconnect it. Maybe it doesn't matter how you disconnect it. But maybe it is easy one way and hard another..... Same with my other questions.

I was hoping for some words of wisdom from others who have experience with this job to point out any pitfals or common mistakes. Every job has its tricks and tips many of which are not covered in "the manual."

Experience is the best teacher.... if you can afford the tuition!

Peter

 

[Don S]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

For instance there is no mention of the best way to disconnect the oil reservoir hose... only how to reconnect it.

If you have the brass through transom fitting, just cut the hose off and put on new hose. If you have the black plastic one, it'g going to break and you replace the fitting and the hose.

Using PowerTuner is the best thing to use for installing the water hose on the through transom fitting.
It also works great on the SS ring holding the bellows in.

Truthfully, I think if you get the outdrive off and actually look at what you have to deal with, many of your other questions will be answered. Research is one thing, but actually looking at what you have makes most of it really obvious.

 

[PeterB26]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

Thanks for the tips!

You see.... I never would have known about that plastic fitting. And since I have no Merc dealer anywhere near me I'll want to have one in hand before I begin. That sort of help and advise is very useful to me. Sure. I could figure it out on my own at the school of hard knocks, but I'd get to the step where I broke the plastic fitting and I'd be stalled for another week waiting for a part. That is after already waiting for a week for the parts just to get started. Maybe my fitting is brass, but for a few bucks I'll buy the plastic part that seems to break easily. Cheap insurance in my mind.

I see other places in the manual where they speak of using "Power Tune" to help bellows slip into place and so on. Again a huge tip re: the water line. Another pearl of wisdom not in the manual shared.

Thanks a million.

If you (or anyone) think of anything else I shoule be aware of, please post it up. I have several days awaiting parts to arrive before I will actually begin.

Peter

 

[PeterB26]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

Useful links for those who come to this thread later:

My home made Bellows Tool


Tool on Bench Demo

Tool in use with clamp

Tool in use Shift Shaft

Tool on bench

Link to Shift Cable article Sterndrives
Replacing your Alpha One shift cable.


Link to Gimbal Bearing job, Sterndrives
Alpha Gen II ujoint bellows. Replacing your ujoint bellows.



Link to video JRmarine Gimbal ring but covers bell housing too
Bravo 1 Extractor Bushing A


Link to source for special tools Ebasicpower
Specialty Tools | Mercruiser | Basic Power

Link to current Manual 14 for A1 G2 sterndrives. Scroll down to load individual sections separately by clicking on red outlined section number. Save using PDF button. Or use ctl-shift-s if no button appears
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/14/14notice.pdf


Link to YouTube video showing some details and good exhaust bellows trick
Mercruiser Transom Bellows Install Procedure - YouTube

 

[ChiefBoater]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

Also, something I learned (just replaced everything myself):

Get the exhaust tube instead of the bellows - lot easier to install.
Replace the senders since you are back there or at least check the wiring to see if it's brittle.
Disconnect the water tube from the hose on the inside and pull the entire assembly out to replace the hose.
Be sure you cut off a little of the water hose or it will kink.
Get the tool for the shift cable nut - makes life much easier.
Replace all of the bellows/hoses while you are in there.
You can feed the shift cable through the new shift shaft, through the gimbal, through the shift cable bellows (use lube) and into the transom without anyone else, once you push it through you should be able to grab it inside the boat - at least it worked for me.
Replace the water pump assembly/impeller since you have to take the lower unit off anyways.

I bought a used boat with no I/O experience and I just did it all by reading this forum, watching youtube and just doing it. Good Luck!

 

[PeterB26]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

Thanks for posting the tips, ChiefBoater.

Good words are always welcome.

I was wondering about the process of removing the water tube from inside the boat. It calls for it in the manual but I wasn't sure if it would be easier that way if it wasn't absolutley necessary. It is a tough thing to get at in my boat. But now I'll have another look.

Peter

 

[PeterB26]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

Another pearl of wisdom not often discussed:

U-Joint bellows has a flat spot on it that has to go to the transom at approx 11 o’clock to clear the water hose.

Peter

 

[PeterB26]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

Here is a link ot a recent post about the plastic part that breaks on the oil line:

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser...utdrives/alpha-one-gen-2-outdrive-611163.html

part number 22-861150T02 previously 861150A1

The E-Ring is listed as "no longer available separately" from Merc, only comes with the whole assembly.... but I'm sure its out there somewhere.

EDIT: The e-ring part number is 53-87843

EDIT: I got part number 86 1150T02 in and even though it is listed as including the e-ring, which is also listed as not available separately, there was no e-ring in with the part. Easy enough to find the e-rings if you search for them, but it would have been helpful to know in advance that they are NOT included with the above part.

Also the 90 degree quick connect inside the transom is not included, but I didn't expect it to be. That part number is 22-861163

Peter

 

[PeterB26]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

Here is a problem that will definately bite you:

The gimbal bearing comes pre-installed in its carrier with the tolerance ring (wavy ring) on the outside. I got two in today and both were cocked in their bearing carriers. Not fully pressed home to the shoulder stop.

See drawing, and forgive its crudeness, but it should suffice:

When you install the bearing the proper installation tool doesn't press on the beaing at all. Only the carrier. So if the bearing is cocked in its carrier as were both of mine, it won't get seated in its carrier during installation and it's bore will then be misalinged with the engine coupler. When you use your alignment tool it will indicate that the engine is misaligned and will need adjustment.

This is not the gimbal housing bore I'm talking about, but the bearing carrier that comes with the bearing. Obvioulsy you need to straighten the bearing in its housing before you install it. Just as obvioulsy you don't want to **** the whole assembly as you install it in the gimbal housing.

The gap is very small and difficult to make out, but if you spin the bearing carrier while holding the inside race of the bearing and sighting very carefully along the edge of the carrier you can see the carrier wobbles back and forth like a bent bicycle wheel. I set mine up on a quickie jig in a shop vice and used a dial indicator to straighten them out.

Peter

 

[PeterB26]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

Here is one more trick from the School of Hard Knocks:

The gimbal beaing has a lube hole in the carrier. This hole has to line up with the grease hole in the bore in the bell housing. And the tolerance ring has to be set so it doesn't block the hole. So far so good..... All that is in the manual. What is NOTin the manual is that 2-4-C, which is the recommended grease for the gimbal bearing turns to crust in salt water. (see this post http://forums.iboats.com/non-repair-i-o-inboards/grease-guns-610379.html )

Now one common reason to change the gimbal bearing is that the U-joint bellows leaked and water got in. But what can happen then is the grease passage in the gimbal housing to the gimbal bearing can get crusted up and clogged. Especially if 2-4-C was used. So you want to take your grease gun and fire a few shots of fresh lube through this passage to clear it while the old bearing is out and before you install the new gimbal bearing.

Then right after you install the new gimbal bearing and before going any further you want to grease the bering while you can still see it, so that you know it is properly getting grease. You will see a little grese ooze out of the metal dust seals between the races. Not tons, just a little.... and spin the bearing by hand to distribute the grease and make sure it feels "greasy" not "oily."

Finding out the grease passage is cogged after everything is back together is no fun. Ask me how I know!

Peter

 

[ktbarrentine]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

I was told not to use 2-4-c on bearings because it has teflon in it, and teflon is not to be used on bearings (actually makes gimbal bearings slide and not "roll"). Manual page 1B-7 says to use Quicksilver U-joint and gimbal bearing grease on the gimbal bearing. Works for me. Where does it say to use 2-4-c on a gimbal bearing? Achris, Don S.... please chime in.

 

[PeterB26]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

I have two copies of the "Mercruiser Manual 14"
The older copy specifcally calls for 2-4-C for the gimbal bearing and cross bearings in the u-joints.
It also lists either 2-4-C or special lube 101 as appropriate for coating the prop shaft at prop re-installation.

The newer manual does same for prop shaft, but calls for Quicksilver Gimbal Bearing and U-Joint grease for the gimbal bearing and u-joints.


Peter

 

[Don S]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

I have two copies of the "Mercruiser Manual 14"
The older copy specifcally calls for 2-4-C for the gimbal bearing and cross bearings in the u-joints.
It also lists either 2-4-C or special lube 101 as appropriate for coating the prop shaft at prop re-installation.

The newer manual does same for prop shaft, but calls for Quicksilver Gimbal Bearing and U-Joint grease for the gimbal bearing and u-joints.


Peter

That is why Merc tells it's dealers to throw away the old manuals when the new ones are received. The newer manual has all the changes in them.
It also includes this service bulletin that the dealers received in 94.

View attachment 24c change.pdf

 

[PeterB26]

Re: Gimbal Bearing U-Joint Bellows Replace: First Timer; Advice Requested

Too bad I'm not a Merc dealer....

and so I wouldn't have any other source of that knowledge other than places like this board....

And neither will many a person researching how to do this job in the future unless they find threads like this one to help them out.

Peter