Gear oil leak?

sactekguy

Recruit
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
3
1997 Mercruiser AlphaOne 3.0 Litre/LX
Engine Serial Number 0K032775
Transom Serial Number 0K136681
Drive Serial Number 0K083837

MCM 3.0LX - 1.94:1 - 135hp - 181(3.0) - GM (4)

Just joined this forum and this is my first post so I expect a bit of hazing. :p I recently pulled my boat out of the water and made a rookie mistake...didn't bring the engine up! I pulled it out of the water slowly and heard/felt the grinding of concrete to the metal fin/guard just below the prop. I immediately stopped and raised the engine. The next morning I found clean green fluid under the prop on the garage floor. Here are a few videos to show ya what I'm looking at:

https://youtu.be/io8SCGhDCP8

https://youtu.be/8Nrcok33Wrw

https://youtu.be/CkA12S74okc

https://youtu.be/jQTVEhsKsJM

I am by no means a mechanic but I am mechanically inclined. I recently replaced the starter on my own reading forums like this, watching videos, talking to local mechanics, etc.

Does the engine hitting ground having anything to do with this leak? Just a coincidence? There have been no leaks of any kind prior to this last time I pulled the boat out of the water.

Where should I start? I'm not against taking it to a mechanic but I'd like to give it a go if I have the right tools, patience, etc.

Thanks in advance!

Todd
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,481
the impact would have nothing to do with the leaks .Appears to be the seal under the water pump with oil from the vent hole in the case and possably the shift shaft seal
 

sactekguy

Recruit
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
3
Thanks Bt! While reading through this forum the last couple days I've found links on how to remove the entire drive or just remove the lower unit from the upper. My understanding is that the lower contains the water pump and other gaskets or seals. I also found videos of the different gasket kits that can be obtained that include the impellar as well.

Would you recommend starting with the lower unit and replacing the seals and gaskets contained in the lower unit? And if that doesnt work begin the process of removing the drive, and replacing any gaskets and seals in the upper as well?

Thanks again!

Todd
 

nola mike

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,786
Remove the whole drive. In addition to being easier, it will let you inspect the bellows, u joints, gimbal bearing, check alignment, etc. You'll then need to pressure test the drive to see which seal is leaking. I believe there's info on building a pressure testing rig in the Adults only section. While you're at it, replace the impeller if you haven't done it within the last couple of years. Actually looks to me that the leak is coming from the upper/driveshaft housing. Leak is from the weep hole and above it, around the shift shaft, correct?
 

sactekguy

Recruit
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
3
You are correct. It is coming from the upper drive shaft housing (at least I think I know what you're referring to). In fact, here are some pics. it looks like the the source of gear oil comes from a male fitting that pushes into a female fitting on the drive which sits in the seal/gasket area of the upper drive shaft. See attached pics. It looks like oil may be leaking from here. Is it possible I just need new gasket/seal for the upper drive shaft housing? What about the orange/amber rubber seal around the female fitting? Is that something that may need to be replaced?
 

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harringtondav

Commander
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
2,520
Pressure testing the outdrive is a good idea as nola mike sad. I check mine each time it's on the floor, and after re-seal jobs. But I use a vacuum pump, like MityVac. A lower gear case with new seals will hold 23" no problem. The upper gear hsg. may not do as well because the seal on the gear yoke is single, and allows some suction. That is from pre-lube monitor Alphas. BUT, I tried pressure testing once. I blew the seal carrier under the water pump out. So I recommend vacuum. I had access to the tool room before I retired, and made up a barbed adapter that screws into any lube drain or vent. The cone plugs that come with vacuum testers work, but are fussy. if you vacuum test a complete O/D. tape over the lube monitor hole to hold vacuum. If just testing the lower hsg. tape over the lube communication hole in the top.
 
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