Gear oil is still milky color

[Hammersjonboat]

I recently bought a jon boat with an 18 hp 1960 Johnson seahorse (the FD-13 model I believe). I changed the gear oil after I got it, among other small projects, and I got new o rings. When I removed the drain plug and vent plug it appeared that there was no o ring on the plugs. The oil came out pretty bad, really thick and milky. I put some new oil in, replaced the o rings (which were a white plastic feeling o ring to my surprise, I thought it would be rubber). After taking out my boat a hand full of times over the past couple weeks I figure I would pop off the drain plug and check the oil. It was milky.
Is there supposed to be a rubber seal in the hole as well? There appears to be a rubber o ring in the screw hole but it doesn't look like the o ring I got from a local service center. I tried to dig it out with no success. If I failed to remove the old o ring it would make sense because I couldn't screw the plug in to be flush with the lower unit and it stuck out just a bit. Could I be messing up the o rings? Is there an old one in there? What else could be the reason the oil is milky? I completely drained the really bad oil the first time as well as pumped fresh oil through a lot to try and rinse the old bad stuff out. Thanks for any help.
Kevin

 

[iggyw1]

I recently bought a jon boat with an 18 hp 1960 Johnson seahorse (the FD-13 model I believe). I changed the gear oil after I got it, among other small projects, and I got new o rings. When I removed the drain plug and vent plug it appeared that there was no o ring on the plugs. The oil came out pretty bad, really thick and milky. I put some new oil in, replaced the o rings (which were a white plastic feeling o ring to my surprise, I thought it would be rubber). After taking out my boat a hand full of times over the past couple weeks I figure I would pop off the drain plug and check the oil. It was milky.
Is there supposed to be a rubber seal in the hole as well? There appears to be a rubber o ring in the screw hole but it doesn't look like the o ring I got from a local service center. I tried to dig it out with no success. If I failed to remove the old o ring it would make sense because I couldn't screw the plug in to be flush with the lower unit and it stuck out just a bit. Could I be messing up the o rings? Is there an old one in there? What else could be the reason the oil is milky? I completely drained the really bad oil the first time as well as pumped fresh oil through a lot to try and rinse the old bad stuff out. Thanks for any help.
Kevin

Sounds like you may have another seal leaking somewhere. I am having the same problem, and mine was repaired by a mechanic a month ago, but every time I go out, the gear oil is milky. I am taking it back to him. He is going to run a pressure test and vacuum test on the lower unit while I am right there.

He replaced the oil seal at the water pump, dive shaft seal, gear rod seal, prop shaft seal and O ring. Any of these could be leaking still. You may want to get the pressure test or vacuum test done, or do your own. You can Google how to do it videos real easy. I watched a few yesterday. if it wasn't for the warranty at the mechanics, I would do my own now that I watched the videos.

 

[twocyclemania]

There are no rubber O rings. The drain screws in the lower unit use a plastic teflon like washer and that's it. See how that works before you go any further. The motor is older and all these leak water to a certain degree and the oil will get a bit milky after a number of runs. Change the lower unit lube on occasion and try to live with it; unless you want to rebuild the lower unit. I find it easier and cheaper to just change the lower unit lube on occasion. You don't have to 'rinse' the old stuff out. Just leave both lower unit (fill and drain) holes open and let them drain out.

 

[HighTrim]

A reseal kit is like 20 bucks and takes an hour or so to do. Why not just reseal the gearcase? Seems like a no brainer to me.

 

[racerone]

There should be no water getting in there .---A seal kit is a must and do not overlook the o-ring on the shift rod !

 

[Hammersjonboat]

Thanks for the input guys. I am going to do a pressure test this weekend. If I need a reseal kit where would I find one? Does Iboats carry them?

Also I have to buy new gear oil. What kind do I need for the 1960. I think it may need type C lube. Will quicksilver premium gear lube SAE 80w-90 work from walmart? OR do I need to go to a dealer and get a special kind? Thanks again for the help.

Kevin

 

[Hammersjonboat]

Thanks for the input guys. I am going to do a pressure test this weekend. If I need a reseal kit where would I find one? Does Iboats carry them?

Also I have to buy new gear oil. What kind do I need for the 1960. I think it may need type C lube. Will quicksilver premium gear lube SAE 80w-90 work from walmart? OR do I need to go to a dealer and get a special kind? Thanks again for the help.

Kevin

 

[Vic.S]

An ordinary outboard gear oil , eg Quicksilver Premium Gear lube, is what is required.
Walmart may have an alternative, cheaper, brand

Type C oil is a lighter viscosity grade for electric shifts.

BTW if its a 1960 18hp the model number is FD-14 FD-13 is 1959

 

[LongLine]

Dig that

 

[LongLine]

Dig that old o-ring out of there. That is your problem! You're putting a seal on top of another seal. I had the same problem with an old mercury. Someone tightened the oil plug too hard, damaged the seat and pushed the o-ring half into the hole.

(sorry about the double post...fat finger-itis

Tom B.
(LongLine)