Fuel Tank deck hatch question

[MTribe08]

Hello,

I'm in the process of doing some deck work to my boat and I had a question as to the fuel tank deck hatch in this boat. From the manufacture they basically glassed in a piece of plywood, wrapped it in carpet and then screwed it into the stringers so it could be removed if you needed to get to the tank.

What this did was leave a big gap in the deck for water to just run down freely onto the stringers running along side of the tank. Terrible design in my opinion. Because they didn't treat the stringers worth a crap, they ran fiberglass up the sides but didn't cap them, and just painted the tops. It looks like they used the plywood as a template to build fiberglass around and after a few years of water getting in I'm sure the plywood started to rot and crumble. There is a ton of very thick fiberglass everywhere in this boat and from the looks of the original design I don't see how the wood stingers they used added much to the strength of the boat, but relied on the buildup of fiberglass around them to do that.

After I get this all back together and ready to put the deck down, would you guys seal the entire deck this time and maybe put a little sealed lid over the top of the fuel tank sending unit if you need to get to that, or just make sure the new stringers are well protected and

What would you do?

 

[Bondo]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

Ayuh,... I'd make danm sure the bilge All drained properly....

No matter how you seal the hatch, it'll still get Wet,...
As long as it All Drains,... So What, No Rot...

 

[MTribe08]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

Ayuh,... I'd make danm sure the bilge All drained properly....

What do you mean? I know that there is no water under the tank, there is no water whatsoever in any of the foam, and I found no water anywhere when I pulled up the deck.

However..the stringers that run along side of the tank were glassed on the sides and not the top, and the screws going into them from the deck hatch were not properly sealed. This led to the problems.

No matter how you seal the hatch, it'll still get Wet,...
As long as it All Drains,... So What, No Rot...

Ok, so even if the deck was entirely sealed, you are saying water will still find a way underneath..but as long as it can find its way to the bildge and the wood is properly protected..then it doesn't matter.

Ok..that being said, I think I like the idea of having the deck seems sealed up with glass...does that pose a problem, other than the issue of having to cut up the deck if the tank needed to come out?? What would you do?

Thanks Bond-o

 

[Robert4Winns]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

My boat was also originally built with a removable section of deck over the gas tank. There was seam which allowed water to get to the area where the tank was, which was not necessarily a problem because there was a hole in the panel at the back of that compartment and any water would flow back to the bilge. In fact, water from the ski locker would drain through this area on its way to the bilge. Also, the tank sat on two strips of plastic that held it up 1/4" off the botton.
But the seam in the deck would collected debris and the carpet in the seam would take forever to dry out. Also, the removable deck panel was held down with screws, which were not sealed. I can see where the stringers and cross braces have rotted around some of those screw holes.
When I put my deck back in I am leaning towards making the deck permanent over the tank and continuous with the rest of the deck.
I think the relevant question is when and why might you need access to the gas tank. I am new to boating, but I'm not aware of any regular maintenance that would require access to the gas tank.
I figure that if I have to replace the tank in the future I can cut that portion of the deck out and either glass in another piece or screw one down like it was before.

 

[MTribe08]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

My boat was also originally built with a removable section of deck over the gas tank. There was seam which allowed water to get to the area where the tank was, which was not necessarily a problem because there was a hole in the panel at the back of that compartment and any water would flow back to the bilge. In fact, water from the ski locker would drain through this area on its way to the bilge. Also, the tank sat on two strips of plastic that held it up 1/4" off the botton.
But the seam in the deck would collected debris and the carpet in the seam would take forever to dry out. Also, the removable deck panel was held down with screws, which were not sealed. I can see where the stringers and cross braces have rotted around some of those screw holes.
When I put my deck back in I am leaning towards making the deck permanent over the tank and continuous with the rest of the deck.
I think the relevant question is when and why might you need access to the gas tank. I am new to boating, but I'm not aware of any regular maintenance that would require access to the gas tank.
I figure that if I have to replace the tank in the future I can cut that portion of the deck out and either glass in another piece or screw one down like it was before.

Yea..my boat is designed the same way..a hole from the ski locker lets water under the tank and out to the bilge...Like you, unless there is some reason I would need to get to the tank, I'm leaning toward sealing it all up. A round hatch to get to the sending unit is what many boats I've looked at have intalled.

 

[The Enforcer]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

I think the relevant question is when and why might you need access to the gas tank. I am new to boating, but I'm not aware of any regular maintenance that would require access to the gas tank.
I figure that if I have to replace the tank in the future I can cut that portion of the deck out and either glass in another piece or screw one down like it was before.

You need access to the sending unit if it ever went out. You could seal the whole floor in place then use a port hole for access to the sending unit. Something like this:http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...Hatches-Latches&aID=601J6&merchID=1009&r=view

 

[Robert4Winns]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

I am considering adding one of those sealed deck plates, but I am also considering waiting until I actually need to get to the sending unit. If I need to get in there I could cut the hole, replace the sending unit and then install the plate. If I never have to get in there then I wouldn't ever have to install the plate.

 

[MTribe08]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

I am considering adding one of those sealed deck plates, but I am also considering waiting until I actually need to get to the sending unit. If I need to get in there I could cut the hole, replace the sending unit and then install the plate. If I never have to get in there then I wouldn't ever have to install the plate.

The deck plate he referred us to is what I was talking about. But like you said, while I have the deck open, I will redo all of the connections at the unit, and paint a circle around where the unit is..so that if I ever need to, I can cut a hole and get at it..at that point I could either reglass the hole or install a deck plate.

I think you have the right idea.

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

That is a bad design.

 

[MTribe08]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

That is a bad design.

Sure is...

 

[Utahboatnut]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

I would make sure the stringers are very well sealed, and have drainage to the bilge. 3/4" holes that are sealed(the wood part) with thinned resin. My crownline just has one of the deck hatches right in front of the engine cover probably a 10" model. I do tons of water sports and even with kids standing on it dripping it seems to keep most of the water out. Sometimes the tops of the stringers arent wrapped due to the difficulty in getting glass to lay over the top well(it doesnt like to bend that tight) You can round the edges and get it to lay over much better but you are losing surface to screw the deck into. If it were me I would drill holes where needed, seal all of them, repair the stringers if and where needed and seal the tops. Put the new sealed deck down with an access hatch(fuel sending units are notorious for going bad) that way you can get to it easily WHEN you need to, not if. It really bites cruising powell not knowing how much fuel you have left in the tank. I rented a boat many years back that ran out even though the guage said almost 1/2 tank, it was in the off season and it took a good while for someone to come help me. good luck post back with any questions...

 

[MTribe08]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

I would make sure the stringers are very well sealed, and have drainage to the bilge. 3/4" holes that are sealed(the wood part) with thinned resin. My crownline just has one of the deck hatches right in front of the engine cover probably a 10" model. I do tons of water sports and even with kids standing on it dripping it seems to keep most of the water out. Sometimes the tops of the stringers arent wrapped due to the difficulty in getting glass to lay over the top well(it doesnt like to bend that tight) You can round the edges and get it to lay over much better but you are losing surface to screw the deck into. If it were me I would drill holes where needed, seal all of them, repair the stringers if and where needed and seal the tops. Put the new sealed deck down with an access hatch(fuel sending units are notorious for going bad) that way you can get to it easily WHEN you need to, not if. It really bites cruising powell not knowing how much fuel you have left in the tank. I rented a boat many years back that ran out even though the guage said almost 1/2 tank, it was in the off season and it took a good while for someone to come help me. good luck post back with any questions...

Yea..for 20 bucks or so, might as well put a hatch in, wouldn't be much fun cutting into the deck on powell. Thanks!

 

[Lou C]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

Yes it's a bad design and the carpet makes it worse...if I were redoing one of these though I would not close it up because one day the tank could leak or the lines could and then you'd have to cut your new deck to get at it...I'd get rid of all the carpet on the deck...then replace the tank hatch but seal the space around it with 4200 and the screw holes as well...that way if it ever had to come up you can do it without too much trouble...if you look at some walk around style boats such as Key West they have this same design...a large hatch around the tank area but it's all sealed so water doesn't get in....decking over a gas tank esp if its the OE tank on an old boat is kind of asking for trouble....

 

[MTribe08]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

Yes it's a bad design and the carpet makes it worse...if I were redoing one of these though I would not close it up because one day the tank could leak or the lines could and then you'd have to cut your new deck to get at it...I'd get rid of all the carpet on the deck...then replace the tank hatch but seal the space around it with 4200 and the screw holes as well...that way if it ever had to come up you can do it without too much trouble...if you look at some walk around style boats such as Key West they have this same design...a large hatch around the tank area but it's all sealed so water doesn't get in....decking over a gas tank esp if its the OE tank on an old boat is kind of asking for trouble....

I can see both sides....

 

[Bondo]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

Ok, so even if the deck was entirely sealed, you are saying water will still find a way underneath..but as long as it can find its way to the bildge and the wood is properly protected..then it doesn't matter.

Ayuh,... Sorry for my lack of articulation,...

My point is,... Regardless how well it's sealed,.. It'll get Wet...
Whether from dripping swimmers, or backwash from the bilge, or forgeting the plug, or rain water...
As long as any water that get's into the hull can drain Out to be pumped from the bilge,...
It'll be about as Good as it gets....
Drainability is the #1 most important thought in redesigning a hull....

 

[Rammyboy]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

Greetings from across the big pond! I find this an interesting thread,one that has been bugging me for some time. I have an 28ft fishing/cruiser that needs a new rear deck due to water ingress. I need access to my rudder and fuel tank/filler. The deck needs to be watertight draining to scuppers. I need two hatches approx 2ft x 18". I have considered plastic ones, but find them too flimsy for regular foot traffic. The metal ones cost about ?300 each. I was thinking about making some fiberglass ones with a lipped edge into a frame, which could be set flush into the new ply deck. Any ideas on making these please?

 

[MTribe08]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

Ayuh,... Sorry for my lack of articulation,...

My point is,... Regardless how well it's sealed,.. It'll get Wet...
Whether from dripping swimmers, or backwash from the bilge, or forgeting the plug, or rain water...
As long as any water that get's into the hull can drain Out to be pumped from the bilge,...
It'll be about as Good as it gets....
Drainability is the #1 most important thought in redesigning a hull....

Thanks bondo, I knew what you were talking about I'll make I've got drainage.

 

[Rammyboy]

Re: Fuel Tank deck hatch question

Greetings from across the big pond! I find this an interesting thread,one that has been bugging me for some time. I have an 28ft fishing/cruiser that needs a new rear deck due to water ingress. I need access to my rudder and fuel tank/filler. The deck needs to be watertight draining to scuppers. I need two hatches approx 2ft x 18". I have considered plastic ones, but find them too flimsy for regular foot traffic. The metal ones cost about ?300 each. I was thinking about making some fiberglass ones with a lipped edge into a frame, which could be set flush into the new ply deck. Any ideas on making these please?

Hello again, thought I'd give this question a bump