Fuel pump 1988 force 125hp

Josecaliente

Seaman Apprentice
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Jul 13, 2018
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33
Good evening everyone! It’s been awhile this forum has changed up a bit. Couldn’t find my old threads so I’m here to post another question about my old force. I apologize in advanced if this has already been answered in previous threads. I’ve been having issues with the carbs flooding and spitting fuel. Carbs have been cleaned, and synchronized, floats have been adjusted, but I still have issues. After reading other posts I see people have mentioned the fuel pump diaphragm could be bad? I took it apart and to be honest I have no idea if it’s bad or not but I ordered the parts anyway. My question is since I have this apart already is there anything else I should be checking? Any more parts that could potentially be bad on this pump? I’ve attached pictures idk if that will help any. Thanks!
 

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Nordin

Lieutenant Commander
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Jun 12, 2010
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From the pics it looks like the diaphragm is bad, but it can be a reflection in the pic.
Usually the other parts in the pump never goes bad, just change the diaphragm and the gasket then it will work.
You mention that the carb is spitting fuel.
I would suggest you to check the reeds, if some of the pedals are bad it will spit back fuel.
As you engine is a 125Hp 1988 I think is has stainless steel (Swedish stainless steel from Sandvik I think. My note, that I am in Sandviken Sweden and working at the Sandvik company) pedals and they are better then the plastic pedals Force/Mercury started to use later.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
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16,717
Nordin, looks like the diaphragm has a shiny spot and maybe good?
Jose. If there's no hole in the diaphragm??? it's good.
Spitting from the carb:
First do a compression test, then do as Nordin suggested, remove the carbs and inspect the reeds.
Does it backfire?
Where are the air screws on the carb set?
 

Josecaliente

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Jul 13, 2018
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33
@jerryjerry05 If the diaphragm was good it’s definitely bad now. I ripped it while trying to remove it. So the motor will sneeze upon initial start up. I’ve been having issues with accelerating. Sometimes it won’t go above 3000 rpms. So then I stop then go full throttle and it will get back up to 4000 rpms and go like 32-35 knots. I set the screws per the shop manual last year on the carbs. It’s been awhile but I think I started at a full turn out?
 

Nordin

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1,794
The pedals should rest at the V-block surface without any gap.
Well you could accept a very very small gap but not more then 0,003-0,004 in, in my opinion.
Dead closed is the best.
Each cylinder has a V-block with two sets of reed valve blades.
One valve blade at each side and each valve blade has 4 or 5 pedals, do not remember exactly.
I have seen stainless steel pedals that the tip is gone and pedals with cracks.
The plastic or later pedals fails often and a whole pedal is gone sometimes.
 

Josecaliente

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Jul 13, 2018
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Changed the diaphragm and gaskets on fuel pump tonight. Primer bulb worked perfectly and she fired right up. Ran out of day light so I’ll check the reeds tomorrow
 

Josecaliente

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Jul 13, 2018
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I’m also having water drip inside the motor leg from the exhaust boot. I’ve tried taking it off and on numerous times and it still drips in the motor leg. Any tips on fixing that? I attached a video disregard the heavy smoke lol I did a seafoam treatment.
 

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