Fuel leakage problem.

[needin some help]

So, been working on my 1974 evinrude 40 horse. Rebuilt carb and everything was o.k. ran rough, so new plugs, points, condenser, and starter solenoid.. Now when I crank engine gas runs out of the front of the carb. Engine might start or it might not. After I did the points and condensors plugs it would run fine. No problems. Now it's sporadic. Bad carb rebuild? Possible wiring issue causing sporatic power failure to the coils? I did have to bypass the kill switch wire with a new wire, the one on the motor to wire harness plug located inside the motor cooling was bad. I replaced key switch, could this be a problem? Too many variables and no enough common sense on my part. HELP

 

[tphoyt]

OEM carb kit? Fuel spilling out is usually a stuck float. Cheap kits are not always good and have mismatched parts. Float level set correctly?

 

[needin some help]

Kit was Sierra

 

[needin some help]

I checked float level per this site, I, unwillingly, am going to pull the carb again and check things out, I did use the original float, but I did a float check by holding the float 7p and tried to blow through the gas inlet tube and it sealed like it was supposed to. But that was a several weeks ago. Cou,d my fuel pump be pumping to strong. I replaced it when I started working on this boat earlier this year.

 

[tphoyt]

Noting wrong with Sierra in my eyes.
Go through again and see what you can find.
For what is worth I have seen them leak from an unvented tank that is in the sun. The pressure can overwhelm the needle and seat sometimes. Not sure if that’s what happened in your case.

 

[Crosbyman]

carb should not leak after a rebuild ... it works like a toilet bowl fill valve. that said when you are done rebuilding with the carb right side UP push air (with your mouth or small lenght of hose) in the inlet barb and it could go right in no problem just like the fuel would coming from the pump.

flip the carb up side down and the float in the carb will close the needle against the seat seat and NO AIR SHOULD enter the carb . with the carb bowl removed the float should sit level with the body of the carb rim as it closes the needle.

make certain part 47 is installed

 

[Mohawkmtrs]

Did you check for a water (fuel)-logged float?

 

[needin some help]

carb should not leak after a rebuild ... it works like a toilet bowl fill valve. that said when you are done rebuilding with the carb right side UP push air (with your mouth or small lenght of hose) in the inlet barb and it could go right in no problem just like the fuel would coming from the pump.

flip the carb up side down and the float in the carb will close the needle against the seat seat and NO AIR SHOULD enter the carb . with the carb bowl removed the float should sit level with the body of the carb rim as it closes the needle.

make certain part 47 is installed
View attachment 420095

Assembly 42 is as shown on my carb. Washer 47 is installed. But my float is
" loose " as in wobble from side to side. I was thinking that could the float be rubbing or sticking to the side of the bowl causing the needle not to seat or possibly a bad pump, which I replaced back in April before I ever started working on this engine, any thoughts? The float was not level per your post, but I checked it for proper function and it was opening and closing as it should but I did reset the float so it is shown in your picture. I thank you for your help, it is very useful.

 

[needin some help]

Did you check for a water (fuel)-logged float?

Yes I did, the float works properly. Thank you for your advise.

 

[Crosbyman]

there should not be so much side to side wobble on the float to snag on thepump body edges. make certain your gasket do not cause internal snagging. make certain the " blow" test works properly

 

[airshot]

Yes I did, the float works properly. Thank you for your advise.

While it might work properly, does the float...float...they often become saturated with fuel or get a pin hole in the case of brass floats so they no longer float properly. The older compressed cork floats were notorious for becoming saturated.

 

[Crosbyman]

alhthoug it is a possibility that the cork is saturated extensive testing by user " TUBBS" on AOMCI over several years of soaking cork samples in a jar resulted in no saturation.

should it be the case here it would beeasy enough to find out because the fuel primer bulb would never get " hard" after the inlet needles was pushed up against the needle seat.

 

[needin some help]

alhthoug it is a possibility that the cork is saturated extensive testing by user " TUBBS" on AOMCI over several years of soaking cork samples in a jar resulted in no saturation.

should it be the case here it would beeasy enough to find out because the fuel primer bulb would never get " hard" after the inlet needles was pushed up against the needle seat.

The primer bulb never gets " hard " but it does get stiff.

 

[needin some help]

Here are a few pics.everything look o.k.?

 

[needin some help]

While it might work properly, does the float...float...they often become saturated with fuel or get a pin hole in the case of brass floats so they no longer float properly. The older compressed cork floats were notorious for becoming saturated.

I filled the bowl with gas, let the float float did lose some gas due to evaporation, took the float out and laid it on. A paper towel and towel stayed dry.