Fuel issue

Jugfisher

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
83
Re: Fuel issue

Yeah I wish I could buy a manual. My wife will not let me spend the 40.00 to get one b/c I have Already spent $2000 geting it rebuilt and retuned and she is just furiouse b/c it still doesnt run. I know what you are all going to think. I am whipped and its just $40. Well I had a hard enough time getting her to let me buy spark plugs for $6. She is is trying to get me to sell it and cut my losses. However I love to go boating and fishing. This puts me in a pickle. So that is why I am trying to get some insight from someone who knows more about it than I do. I know that buying a manual is the best thing I could do and in the long run would save me a load money, even the short run, but she has me by the balls here b/c I made the mistake of buying this boat in this first place:redface: . I am trying to dig myself out of this hole that I have dug. I appreciate all the help you have given.
 

Windykid

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 17, 2007
Messages
1,177
Re: Fuel issue

OK OK OK you have me in stitches at this point. :D You can go to E-Bay and bid on one.

You could post a new thread for someone who might have a manual for your moto and see if you can get the link and sinc procedures. Hell, if I had one I would send it to you, but I dont.
 

Jugfisher

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
83
Re: Fuel issue

Ok thanks. I am going to take my bowls off again and see what I can find. I havnt checked them since I ran it last. Ill let you know what I find. Thanks for the help.:)

P.S. Dont tell anyone about my wife:p ;)
 

Jugfisher

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
83
Re: Fuel issue

[Ok thanks. I am going to take my bowls off again and see what I can find. I havnt checked them since I ran it last. Ill let you know what I find. Thanks for the help.:)

P.S. Dont tell anyone about my wife:p ;)
 

Jugfisher

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
83
Re: Fuel issue

Just so I dont do anything stupid. Where is the fuel pump diaphram. I know I sound pretty dumb but I actually am very well mechanically inclined. I just dont want to screw up all this money I have put in to this motor. So Ill just keep asking dumb question so that I will know that I am right. :)
 

Windykid

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 17, 2007
Messages
1,177
Re: Fuel issue

Just follow the fuel line from the tank to the fuel fump, there should be a line out to the carb.:rolleyes:
 

Jugfisher

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
83
Re: Fuel issue

OK if I take the fuel pump cover off. Will I need a rebuild kit to put it back on.
 

Windykid

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 17, 2007
Messages
1,177
Re: Fuel issue

The proper way is with a kit, but you can check the diaphram some times without one. Open it slowly.
 

hammyloz

Seaman
Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
72
Re: Fuel issue

i got a diaphram kit off of ebay for 7 uk pounds but before that i was looking at the marine shops in good old usa and they were about 8 dollars so not that expensive
you can take the cover off and check if the diaphram has gone hard or got any holes in
and i saw on an earlier post you were worried about taking the carbs off trust me its easy and there is a thread to lync an sync from cams canino on here just search for it
 

roger3645

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 30, 2005
Messages
271
Re: Fuel issue

If your are not getting a firm primer bulb that's a clue. My motor did the same thing. Turned out to be the float needles not closing correctly. Try to run a fuel line to one carb at a time and see if you get a firm bulb, the one you can't get one on is the bad one.

Here is the link and sync procedure By CLAMS


Manual specs are different for each but this is close enough to get them all REAL close. This assumes nothing is broken or "wrong" with it. This also assumes that the timing pointer is properly adjusted (if adjustable) to accurately read TDC of the #1 piston.

This basic procedure will work for all the 2/3/4/6 cylinder inlines from 1960 to 1988. It's not for the newer 3 and 4 cylinder loopers.

Engine off

Disconnect throttle cable

Pull throttle arm to full throttle and verify carbs open fully. Adjust main throttle stop so that the carbs are JUST hitting thier own little throttle stops. The idea here is that you want the screw stop and NOT the carbs acting as the "final stop" for your throttle lever.

Return the throttle to idle, carbs should be closed. Set all idle screws to 1 3/4 turns out from lightly seated.

Remove all plugs except #1, hook a timing light to #1. Then follow the narritive.

When the throttle is in the idle position the carbs should be fully closed and the ignition retarded. It is the amount of retardation that determines your idle speed and is set later with the idle stop screw.

Timing Event One - throttle pickup.
As the throttle is advanced, the spark timing advances toward TDC and then to before TDC. As the timing is just passing TDC the 1st (minor)throttle pickup should hit and start to open the carbs. Use the timing light. Adjust the tang or trigger screw to make this a reality. All of them are speced different, but if the 1st pickup hits at 3-4 degrees BTDC advance - you win. Use the timing light with a friend cranking it to complete this setting.

Timing Event Two - max advance.
As you continue to advance the throttle the timing will advance while the carbs slowly open a bit more. The next adjustment is max advance, this is the point where the distibutor (or trigger) can advance no more. Set the max-advance stop to 21 degrees for "direct charge" crossflow inlines and 34 degrees for the older plain vanilla crossflows. Use the light, - err to the side of caution.

Right after max advance, further throttle motion should cause the second throttle pickup to hit and open the carbs to full. You already set that -now verify it.

Leave the throttle cable disconnected and go to the water. Leave the boat strapped to the trailer and back it in so it's deep enought to run. Have a friend crank it while you operate the choke and throttle. Warm it up at 1500 rpms's.

When "warm" adjust the idle stop screw for about 800 rpm and then ajust your idle needle(s) in (one at a time) till the motor stumbles. Quickly backing it out 1/2 turn from "stumble" will usually save it from needing a re-start. Do that for all the idle screws. Re-set idle stop for 800.

Now have your friend put it in gear (make SURE you are on the transom NOT in the water) and reset your idle stop for as low as you can get it. 500-600rpm is great if your old reeds will let it idle that low in gear. Now, re-adjust the idle screws, in to stumble, then 1/2 turn out. When you've gone back and forth with that a few times and have it "perfect" - adjust each one out 1/4 turn.
 

Jugfisher

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
83
Re: Fuel issue

WOW!! Thanks For all that info. It may be a while before I can get back with yall to tell you what happend. Thanks for all the good info.
 

Jugfisher

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
83
Re: Fuel issue

If I have a float needle that isnt closing. How would I go about fixing it.
 

Windykid

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 17, 2007
Messages
1,177
Re: Fuel issue

Clean the port and needle, adjust float.
 

Jugfisher

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
83
Re: Fuel issue

OK I will try that later this evening. Oh by the way WindyKid. I did take a look at those bowls and the had very small amount of trash and no paint. So I guess that wasnt the problem.
 

Windykid

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 17, 2007
Messages
1,177
Re: Fuel issue

Actually it could be the reason the float needle is not seating.
 

BigDaddy300

Cadet
Joined
Apr 11, 2007
Messages
18
Re: Fuel issue

Have you done a link and sinc?

Fuel pump probably wouldnt hurt.
Try pumping the fuel bulb while pushin WOT.

Not trying to hijack this thread but my motor seems to starve for fuel at WOT and when I start pumping the fuel bulb it runs great. What could be the possible problems. Thanks
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Re: Fuel issue

I'm shocked!!! :eek: All you wizards out there and you've all missed the absolutely obvious "slap you in the face" fault. Here's the big clue... when I pushed the choke it run ok.... richen idle screws 1/4 turn problem will be solved....

It's not unusual for the primer to not get hard. If you pump it hard enough the pressure will push the needles open and fuel will flow out through either the carb vents or into the venturis...

Chris................

Big Daddy 300 - it's a different problem, start a new thread.....
 

hammyloz

Seaman
Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
72
Re: Fuel issue

ouch that hurt achris but just read the whole 2 pages and he dont mention about it running better when pushing the bulb or choke
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Re: Fuel issue

brand new spark plugs too. New gas was in tanks. When the mechanic rebuilt the carbs is there some way of setting them that may be off. One day while I was trying it out it was doing its thing (Sputtering and coughing) and I hit the choke and released and it seemed to run fine until I throttled it back down. Then I tried to open it up again and it would just struggle and go dead

Date and time : 8 May 2007 03:07(GMT). Post #15 on the thread.

Chris...........................
(I've bolded the relevant sentence)
 
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