Frank

[damexican67]

hey Frank in doing all this I mean trying to start the engine is it alright to do so with a flush kit thing attached so it can have water running thru it?I tell you I am really blind when it comes to outboard engines and it really gets me upset because I have a bad habbit of letting things that I attempt to fix get to me and usually I get it or I will not sleep well at all, and I really mean it. This is all new to me and in reality it has become a challeng that I plan to accomplish with the help of others like yourself.I am a hell of an Electrician and pretty much I set out to do. Thanks again.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Frank

OK! We were talking about a 1974, 75 HP Chrysler. Now Models changed willy-nilly so bear with me.

I think your engine had a breaker point distributor. If it did, the points are only a signaling device for the CD box and tell it when to dump it's capacitors into the coil. (The CD box is actually a Capacitor Discharge Unit).

If your distributor has points, then clean them and set to .014 gap. Even though they only signal, an incorrect gap will change timing.

If your distributor does not have points, It may be labeled Electronic and will have two wires attached to insulated terminals on the front of it. There is no way to test an electric eye module except by replacing with a known good one so we will need to assume for now that it is good.

Re-attach the distributor cap to the distributor. With the single terminal or two wire terminals facing the front of the engine, #1 wire is the wire closest to the engine block ot linkage tower. #2 is the wire furthest forward on the engine and #3 is the wire closesd to the outside of the engine. Firing order is 123.

In the front of the engine above the top carb, you will see a bent piece of metal screwed to the block and bent up in front of the flywheel. It will have lines scribed on it. The long line is 0 degrees. Turn the flywheel by hand until the ) on the ring gear lines up with the long scribed line. Now be sure that the curved line on the distributor pullet lines up and matches the curve of the flywheel. If it is not, loosen the distributor mount and index the pulley onto another tooth of the belt. Then tighten the dist mount. Careful---do not get the belt too tight or the dist will jam the linkage making it difficult to go into gear and almost impossible to come out into neutral. An .010 fooler gauge pointed like a finger into the center of the belt should deflect the belt 1/8 to 3/16 inch before bending. Now, your dist and #1 piston are set to 0 deg or fairly close to it and TDC.

Now its time to check for spark. Since the CD unit is charged by the battery, be sure the battery is connected and be sure the Blue wire is connected to the "I" terminal on the ignition switch and the red wire is connected to the "B" terminal. Be sure the wires are connected to the proper screws on the engine terminal block Top downyellow, purple, white, green, orange, red, blue, black. If you have the Motorola (Big, Black , Ribbed, cast box) be sure that the white, red, and blue wires from it are connected to the respective colored terminals.

Now, turn on the ignition swithc and ground out the plugs or connect wires to a plug tester. with the plugs removed from the head, as you turn over the flywheel. each plug in order will fire if everything is OK.

That's it for tonight. More tomorrow. Meanwhile, state which CD box you have and whether or not dist is points or electric eye. Also tell which voltage regulator you have. Bye!

 

[damexican67]

Re: Frank

hey Frank, heres what I have CD box-Magnapower Ignition model#6CB2003 serial#63011 12v N gnd. My voltage regulator is a Solid State model#052567 and I do have points. Again with the plug wires the part of the wire that that goes to the cap must have a metal/brass point?Because mine it's like the wires were just cut and put thru,and the cut end has nothing just a small piece of wire showing and the point that the wire is supposed to hit on like it splits the strands of wire making me think that perhaps the wires are not making good enough contact. And so I think that yes they are supposed to have some sort of end on them and not just cut off end. Am I on the right track,because if I am I have already order the plug wires from NAPA today. Also not to change the subject the carb's they have a cover in front of them, how in the hell do I remove this cover it has a bunch of screws and some of them are very hard to get to. The manual doesnt show how to remove it just shows it off. Or do I just unscrew the 6 screws in the front of the cover it self,I believe it's 2per carb. Man this motor has my mind all twisted. Thanks Alot oh by the way I hope I do get it running by October if not I would like for you to help me. Hey the State Fair opens this weekend and lasts thru the 2nd or 3rd week of October.(lots of fun!!!) BYE.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Frank

My God! This distributor is REALLY messing with your mind! --Understand: It is a MARINE distributor. It is expected to operate in an enclosed compartment in the presence of Gasoline vapors. Because of this, it is designedto be explosion-proof. Therefore, it is different from automotive distributors which are expected to operate in an essentially open compartment free from gasoline vapors. ---BUT, "It is what it is." And as Tom Cruise said in the movie Risky Business: "Sometimes you just have to say what the F***." So, just get over it, insert the damn wires, and put the thing together.

There are no terminations on the ends of the plug wires. The wires are wire core, not supressor or carbon cores. The ends are cut square and are just pushed over the correct brass pins in the cap. Push the wires through the holes in the cover, then through the holes in the rubber. leave about one inch protruding and push them onto the pinsthen slide down the rubber and cover, and screw together the whole assembly. Attach to the distributor body using the locator hole and pin and tighten the two clamps. ---Five minutes---That's it.

Now, last night I told you how to rough check the timing at 0 degrees and how to check for spark. If you do not have spark on any plug, then you must check all connections--the switch, the red and blue wires going to the CD box (both should have 12 volts with the ignition on) The grey wire going to the coil (Somewhere around 200 volts--don't quote me--but significantly higher than 12 volts but only when the box dumps into the coil) Check that points are indeed grounding and signaling the box. Now, the CD box can fail in two ways: One--it can just not fire the coil and two-- It can continuously fore the coil so ther is no timing. If one plug fires continuously BZZZZZT- without turning the flywheel further, then the box is bad.

Gotta go--More tomorrow

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Frank

Back again but just for a short. The six screws in the front of the air box hold it to the carbs. The bottom two are very difficult to get at; a bent screwdriver or a bit with a 1/4 inch open end wrench helps. I replace them with allen head cap screws for ease of removal. But before you start messing with the carbs--Let's do one thing at a time--First let's be sure that it has spark. also check compression. If you do not have a compression tester, just put a finger over each plug hole while turning the flywheel. It will either have compression and push your finger out, or not. if a piston does not have compression, that means a melted piston or broken rings. However, the engine will start and run on two cylinders--just won't make much power.

Believe me: if there is nothing mechanically wrong or electrically wrong the engine will start and run for you. It may just need a little troubleshooting. So first, check compression--if you have a gauge anything over 100 on an engine that old is good. Then check to see if there is spark on all three plugs. Then we will take it from there

BTW: I have a Clymers manual. Others on the forum have stated that Seloc is no where as good as Clymers.