Forward and reverse help!

dacker

Cadet
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Messages
25
Ok so I've done a search and found some similar issues but nothing exactly like what mine is doing. I recently acquired an 82 mercury 40 2 stroke which had been sitting for a while. I rebuilt some stuff on the motor and pulled the lower unit to rebuild the water pump and replace the output shaft seal because I was betting it was pretty dry and didn't want to chance it. So I have the lower unit in my bench back together now and I don't think something is right. I can manually turn the shift rod and I def have a neutral but no matter if I turn it clockwise or counterclockwise the prop engages and rotates in a clockwise direction. Shouldn't it be rotating counterclockwise when it's supposed to be in the reverse selection? What are the recommend steps to figure out what's going on here. I am new to working on outboards but have been working on motors and in mechanical maintenance for 30 years now so I'm pretty familiar with how things are supposed to work just don't want to take unnecessary steps to figure out/fix the problem. Thanks in advance.... Dale
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,420
A lot of Merc gearcase propshafts ratchet CW, not turning the driveshaft when in forward gear. Turning them CCW will turn the driveshaft, but can be hard to turn, because of the waterpump impeller doesn't like to spin backwards.

The propshaft will turn the driveshaft both ways when in reverse.

Turn the shifter CCW looking down on it, to find reverse. Neutral will be CW from reverse, and forward CW from neutral.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,617
My experience with the Merc LU shifter is that the relaxed position of the shift mechanism is that the spring loaded "cam follower" on the front of the prop shaft is the farthest forward, relaxing the pressure on the spring behind it on the prop shaft.

The cam follower follows 3 detents in the shift cam plate controlled by the splined shift stub sticking out of the front of the LU, each being a little farther from the pivot point as you go from F to R. Tension increases as you twist the shaft to N and increases more as you move on over to R as R requires the clutch dog to be "pushed" back to the rear to engage R gear.

Having had it apart surely you noticed that the clutch dogs faces and the rear of the respective gears are different shapes.

F gear and the front of the dog are sawtoothed and that sawtooth design is an "overrun" clutch allowing the prop to free spin when the engine is decelerating faster than the boat is slowing down when the boat is moving forward and you chop the throttle. It lets the prop "free wheel" or overrun allowing for a smooth transition rather than a "put your teeth in the windshield" abrupt drag...brake. R gear is usually straight sided, lock in place slots and cogs, as the overrun clutch isn't always a requirement as in R gear you are never going all that fast.

So with the shifter cam in the center (N) position, obviously the prop free wheels. Moving to R one has to turn the prop as you move the shifter to find a spot where the cogs and slots line up and the cam then continues moving in the R direction and completes it's travel equal in distance from the N position to that of F gear.

Moving in the opposite direction with the shift shaft, going through N and stopping in F gear, the spring tension on the shift shaft is minimum and the clutch dog is plugged into the rear of the F gear, both having sawtooth surfaces. Looking from the rear of the engine, turning the prop CW causes the prop shaft to move in and out slightly as the sawtooth surfaces rise and fall over the peaks and valleys of the gears and the prop shaft turns without the drive shaft (engine crankshaft) turning....that's the overrun clutch working. Turning the prop CCW it doesn't want to move easily as you are having to turn the whole drive line as you had to do in R (in both directions).
 

dacker

Cadet
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Messages
25
Well I haven't had it all the way apart I opted to change the shaft seal the hack way and pull it out from the rear with everything still in place. I will investigate further after what you have said though thanks for the reply.
 

dacker

Cadet
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Messages
25
Alright guys I got that figured out and working finally.... Now my issue is it's only firing on 1 cylinder at a time... I'm other words both cylinders will fire but if they're both hooked up only 1 will.... Doesn't matter which one I disconnect the other one will fire just never at the same time. I'm sure it has to be A grounding issue somewhere just don't have a clue where to start....
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,617
Define "both hooked up". What's unhooked...HV lead off the spark plug? Does RPM have anything to do with the problem? If it works at low RPMs and not at high then I could support the dirty terminal (either supply) theory, but some modules get their ground through the mounting screws. Some modules are attached to a heat sink/mounting plate that is separate from the engine block where the batt. - is attached and are connected with a black ground wire...supply voltage usually use the input terminal to the starting solenoid as a voltage distribution point and some a separate terminal block.......all avenues for bad connections.

What's your battery voltage with engine off and what is it running as fast as you can get it to run on 1 cylinder....what's the RPM? Is it identical at a certain RPM with either cylinder hooked up or with both? Do you have individual modules developing the high voltage or a switch box setup?
 
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