Force 1990, 90hp. Need wiring help, Pics included

[Derrick Fronckowiak]

Aside from applying current to the systems on your boat (such as fuel quantity indicator and speedometer, and cranking the starter) when it's turned on, the ignition switch removes the from you ignition. It is also wired in parallel with your kill switch. It simply grounds out your ignition when you turn it off. Make sure your kill switch is good as well. Did you say your styarter is or is NOT cranking? If not, make sure you are getting DC power to the switch (fuel gage should work if you are). Next see if DC voltage is getting to your starter relay from your switch. Let us know.

 

[Derrick Fronckowiak]

Here's a simplified schematic of my Force 90 and the ignition switch. Of course it's for my Capri, but the basic wiring between the engine and your ignition switch is likely identical. View attachment Force Engine-Ignition Switch Schematic.pdf As has been mentioned by other posters (far more seasoned than I), check your connections EVERYWHERE, even under the dash. One corroded terminal that is not making good contact can sabotage everything and send you on a wild goose chase as well.

 

[Syntheziz]

I just want to start the motor without the ignition switch. I connect two points in the solenoid with a thick jumper cable and the motor begins to rumble and the starter motor raises to the flywheel attempting to spin it however nothing else happens. It seems it almost starts but it feels like it lacks gas or something. Im not sure if i should be bypassing anything else other then jumping the solenoid. The person I got it from managed to start it somehow also without using a ignition switch

 

[kbh121956]

You will need to energize the ignition system for it to run. You would also need a good ground. Wait for JerryJerry, Nordin or Jiggz as they would know this much better then me. I'd hate to give you the wrong info and have your CD system fried on my behalf.

 

[Derrick Fronckowiak]

If you disconnect the kill wires coming from the packs to the terminal board (that is on the same side of the engine as the starter) it is the same thing as turning the key to "on", you are removing the ground from the kill circuit. The system is then "live" and all you need is power to crank the engine (you could jumper the starter solenoid with a remote starter switch or a jumper wire). As long as the neutral safety switch is functional and adjusted correctly (and you don't try to start the engine in any shift position other than neutral) you'll then have a live ignition circuit. When you crank the engine you should be getting a spark on your plugs. But, as kbh121956 stated, a proper ground of the packs is a must, or you could fry your packs. Each pack (as well as each coil) has its own ground and don't forget that the C.D. and Coil bracket that holds the coils and packs must be well grounded to the engine crank case. To summarize: check all your grounds for good, clean connections (ALL grounds, everywhere), disconnect your kill wires (both of them, one coming from each pack-don't let them touch ground or anything else), ensure your neutral safety switch is working right, shifter to neutral, crank with remote starter switch/jumper wire, and check to see if each plug is getting a spark as the engine rotates. That's pretty much isolating your starter switch from the engine. Also, you can manually move the choke if you are actually trying to start the motor vises troubleshoot the ignition.

 

[Syntheziz]

Having trouble identifying which two are the kill wires. Is it the wires labeled "stop"?

 

[Syntheziz]

So i just removed the spark plugs and used a spray bottle to put some gas in everyone. The motor ran for like a second before it died. I'm guessing this confirms that it has some kind of fuel problem?

 

[kbh121956]

Did you squeeze the primer bulb until it got firm? Did it stay firm? if it didn't you would have a bad fuel pump. You watched and heard this run about 2 months ago?

 

[Derrick Fronckowiak]

Yeah, if you squirted fuel in the combustion chambers and ran for a second, you are getting combustion (getting sparks). What kbh121956 said holds true for troubleshooting the fuel system. You must establish whether or not you are getting (sufficient) fuel flow/pressure to the carbs before you go messing with carb mixture adjustments or tearing them apart to look for clogs or breakage. If he's right and your fuel pump diaphrams are ruptured you will not get sufficient fuel to the carbs. JerryJerry often recommends the installation of a cheap, simple in-line fuel filter with a clear bowl installed between your fuel pump outlet and your carb inlet (on the fuel supply hose going to the carbs) so you can see if fuel is being delivered from the pump. This in-line filter provides: (1) last chance fuel filtration before any particulates can get to your carbs and clog the small orifices and passageways; (2) a means to determine if your fuel pump is delivering fuel to your carbs and; (3) a means to see if your fuel bulb is working correctly (sometimes the check valve in the bulb goes bad). In short, you should ensure that you are getting fuel to the carbs first, then go from there. By the way, fuel pump rebuild kits are relatively cheap if you need go that route.