Foam, Plywood, Epoxy & Limber Hole Questions

[rml]

Greetings once again to the Board;<br /><br />I have a few questions...<br /><br />1. My starboard foam is holding some water but it appears mostly on the bottom about 1/2" above the hull. In some areas there is a 1/2" gap between the foam and the hull - in others the foam is in full contact and when removed there appears to be an imprint of the woven 'glass on the soaked foam. My question is: Is the off color soaked foam degraded resin or is it just the nature of this foam to turn brown when waterlogged (appears to be a yellow closed cell type of foam)?<br /><br />2. My 3/4" marine plywood stringers and floor are wet, but (so far -- knocking on wood) no rot. Should I replace or just cover with epoxy resin?<br /><br />3. I will be cutting and epoxying in place 1" PVC through the bottom of the stringers to allow for drainage to the bilge...but where and how often along the stringer (bow to stern) should the limber holes be located? Right now my focus in the stern area of the boat and I plan on 'glassing in a limber hole in front of the motor mount.<br /><br />Regards,<br /><br /> --rml

 

[crab bait]

Re: Foam, Plywood, Epoxy & Limber Hole Questions

ques.#1..<br /><br />not sure..<br /><br /><br /># 2..<br />epoxy over wet wood is no good.. even seeminly dry wood still contains high moisture which is all that's needed for a good growth of rot spores.. over 14 % moisture content is bad.. an is worse then totally soaked wood.. <br /><br />if it's raw unprotected wood , i.e. resin ,ect.. i'd go with soakin' with anti-freeze.. it's your only chance..<br /><br /><br /># 3..<br />why install a pipe..?? just 'cut' a channel an that's that.. let the channel be a channel..<br /><br />if you ever install new foam.. first ay down 1/8 in. owens-corning pink styrofoam sheets on the hull first..<br /><br />cut the sheets in smaller sections first.. <br /><br />a gappy irregular butt joint fit is wanted..an a tite fit is undesirable..<br /><br />than tape the gappy butt joints with the CHEAPEST widest M A S K I N G tape you find.. <br /><br />then pour two part foam on top ..<br /><br />the reason for this maddness is water will find its way down thru the cheap tape an flow the gaps out to the bilge..

 

[mutron77]

Re: Foam, Plywood, Epoxy & Limber Hole Questions

If you plan on keeping the boat for a long time you might as well replace the wood. You could also dry it out as best you can and totally encapsulate it with biaxial tape from the hull up and over the stringer and and down the other side. Then, the glass becomes the structure you don't care much about the wood inside. I chose to not replace the foam under the deck. That is a matter of opinion.<br /><br />H90

 

[rml]

Re: Foam, Plywood, Epoxy & Limber Hole Questions

Thanks crab bait & Horse90...<br /><br />After further exploration, it appears as though the stringers are resin coated and the resin has separated from the aftmost portions of the stringers (3/4" ply). They are wet, but solid - and I'm going to treat with one of the homebrew glycol solutions to get me through the season.<br /><br />I have cut in a 1" limber hole just in front of the motor mount -- that should work wonders for routing the water to the bilge! I'm also going tape in the pink builders insulation to replace the couple of cubic feet of foam that I cut out and cap the hole that I cut in the floor with marine grade doug fir and a piece of 'glass mat.<br /><br />Once the heated shop is built, I'll be doing a full stringer/deck replacement - as I do plan on keeping the boat.<br /><br />There is also a spot in the single layer mat that separated from the deck and two unsupported deck joints where the mat has cracked. My plan is to put "band aids" on these spots by injecting resin under the mat where it has separated and using some biaxial tape on the unsupported butt joint...I think I'll add some support while I am at it <br /><br />Best Regards,<br /><br /> --rml